CV axle

hi. I am looking to remove my CV axle. While I was udnerneath realizing i needed a new one. I seen a roll pin that goes through the inner CV joint. Do i need to pound that out? or is it merely holding the inner CV joint together?

Also this is off topic so sorry. But im also planning on replacing the boots on my steer rack. Does anybody have anything that they encountered or struggled with? I dont think the rack has been touched since it was built so im guessin im gonna be dealin with seized bolts but any other info would be tremendous.

Oh and its a 1992 Subaru Legacy 2.2 turbo all wheel(not sure if they made a 2 wheel)

Yes, you have to pound that roll pin out.
It only goes one way, so the little indented side is where you pound it out, and replace it. You may have to loosen the two strut mount bolts on the hub to be able to take the axle out.
If you soak the bolts in PB Blaster for a day or two, and have a torch, hammer, breaker bar, cheater pipe, impact wrench (you don't have to use all these, but its nice to have options with some stubborn bolts) you shouldn't have any problems.
I just advise, be sure you soak all the bolts, because you don't want to snap any bolts.

Steering rack boots are a total PITA.
You have to remove the tierods, which should ultimately be replaced once you do that, because 99.9% chance you will just annihilate them trying to take them off. In some instances they have to be cut off.
It's all patience and preparation for the bolts.

ok so the roll pin only goes one way? u mean i pound it through the axle right? or is the a hole on the corresponding side for a punch to go through and not the roll pin?

and correct me if im wrong cause im just picturing this in my head and havent looked. but if i remove the tie rods will that give me enough movement with my hub assembly to allow me to remove the CV axle?

thx again

Originally Posted by scooter780

ok so the roll pin only goes one way? u mean i pound it through the axle right? or is the a hole on the corresponding side for a punch to go through and not the roll pin?

and correct me if im wrong cause im just picturing this in my head and havent looked. but if i remove the tie rods will that give me enough movement with my hub assembly to allow me to remove the CV axle?

thx again

The hole is there to tell you which way to pound it out, and when you replace it you'll be putting it back in the same side you pounded it out.

You may not have to remove the strutmounts, it all depends on if the axle wants to come out of that tight space with relatively little coaxing. But, the strut mounts hold that hub in tightly, removing the tierods won't give you that much play.

I was also just merely answering your question, there are a couple other small steps to remove the cv.
How I do it is I jack the car up, remove the wheel, take the center cap off the rim and replace the wheel on the car. Set the car back down on the ground and that real big nut behind the center cap keeps the axle attached to the hub, you may not have a socket this big, many people don't. You can rent one specifically to do this from Advance Auto.
Anyways, the nut is staked against the axle, so hammer the tab out and then you can remove the nut all the way.
Now you can jack the car back up and take the tire back off, and if you took the roll pin out, it should move pretty freely.
Like I said, if there isn't enough play between the hub, you can just take the two strut mount bolts out, just make sure you mark the top bolt, it's your camber bolt.

well Bdubs thank you for ur explanation.