2007-2009 Air Pump Delete with CEL codes and ECU Fix-Pix too

Once again I was asked to document a project I undertook with my 2008 SpecB.

I have always hated the OEM air pump system. Sure it got rid of the cat in the uppipe, but at what expense? 10lbs of crap taking up valuable engine bay space?

I have read of many problems associated with the delete. Mainly that the ECU goes haywire. Well, I figured that all out. It was actually the reasearch I did to make my GM 3BAR MAP sensor work that led me to stumble upon the solution to deleting the air pump system.

So without further delay I give you my solution to the air pump fiasco.

First=

the pump in all its glory.

Second=

the pumps two mounting points. Remove the two bolts, disconnect the electrical plug and release the hose clamp. Out it comes.

Third, fourth and fifth=

The plastic tube connecting the pump to the drivers side solenoid. Fifth being the bolt hole that mounts it. Remove the one bolt and the hose clamp at the drivers side solenoid. Out it comes

Six and seven=

the drivers side solenoid assembly.

Eight and nine=
driver side solenoid mount. Remove the two nuts and the hose clamp. Pull the tubing off and out it comes.

Ten=

the tubing from the drivers side to passenger side. Actually wraps around the back of the motor and then under the manifold. No hard mounting points.

Eleven=

passenger side solenoid. Held down with two nuts just like drivers side.

Twelve and thirteen=

passenger side solenoid mounting studs.

Fourteen=

hard pipe from engine to passenger side solenoid. Release from motor then remove.

Fifteen and sixteen=

passenger side motor mount for hard pipe to solenoid. Remove two bolts and lift out through are in next pic.

Seventeen=

where hard pipe will exit from.

Eighteen and nineteen=

all the parts out.

Twenty=

drivers side solenoid and studs. I doubled up the nuts and then used them to back out the studs.

Twenty one=

the hard pipe

Twenty two=

plastic tube from pump to drivers side solenoid.

Twenty three=

plastic tube from drivers side solenoid to passenger side solenoid.

Twenty four=

passenger side solenoid.

Twenty five=

top of passenger side solenoid cut off with a sawzall. Solenoid electro-magnet and sensor on the side now.

Twenty six, seven, and eight=

sensor cut out. Can still cut more of the metal away. All I need is the small square portion on top. I could cut it off with a heat gun and sharp blade.

Twenty nine and Thirty=

the two sensor connectors. Notice the drivers side is two wires. This is power and ground for the solenoid electro-magnet. Now see the passenger side is 5 wires. Two of them are power and ground for the electro-magnet. The other three are power, ground and signal for the atmospheric pressure sensor.

It is important to place new gaskets and block off plates over the two openings. Then reconnect the passenger side atmospheric sensor to the OEM harness (purple plug) and find a happy home for it. Zip ties will work it is most likely still under the manifold in the end.

You can simply tape off the other two connections (power/ground to pump motor and drivers side solenoid).

Now the list of CEL's that need to be disabled;

* P0410
* P0411
* P0413
* P0414
* P0415
* P0416
* P0417
* P0418
* P0419
* P2431
* P2432
* P2433
* P2441
* P2444

Once the CEL's are disabled you can open romraider logger with the key int he "on" position but the engine off. Check your atmospheric pressure reading. If it is good, so are you.

The ECU checks atmospheric pressure against manifold pressure at start up. If the two readings are too far apart, no fuel or spark. This is a safety feature Subaru built in. If the ECU determines that one of the sensors went bad while the car is running you go into limp mode. You wont see it anymore because you turned off the CEL. But the car will not run properly and might not start again after shutdown.

This is what lead everyone to think that deleting the air pump messed up the ECU. It is not a grounding issue. But a sensor issue.

If you do not want to cut the sensor out of the solenoid you could simply get a second block off plate (KS Tech makes one) for just the solenoid. You would have to block it off and leave it in place. Less weight reduction. Still in the way of your turbo (STi style) ad inlet. But better than nothing.

Hope this helps someone.

Nice right up. Thank God I don't have that on my car. I had it on my Cobalt but it was extremely easy to remove from that car. All I had to was take all of it off, seal up the electrical connecter, block off the hose on the airbox, and have the dealer uninstall that feature. They didn't really uninstall it, they just went back through the ECU and there was a question for you did or didn't have the air pump. At the point you just answered no. Well, there was the part that dumped the fresh air into the exhaust but I put a header on that blocked that off.

Excellent post and great pics. Thank you. Now, do I attempt to do this Saturday when I install the RacerX FMIC or should I stick to one project at a time? Hmm...

One thing at a time or you will end up like me and have a car in pieces for months.

Fair enough. I do actually like driving my car too.

Nice write up Sprank! Thanks. I was thinking about doing this, you made the decision that much easier.

Originally Posted by m sprank

One thing at a time or you will end up like me and have a car in pieces for months.

LOL. Excellent advice.

I once heard that removing this would actually free up a few ponies. Is that even possible? did you notice any differences?

Ponies. No ponies. Unless you count the weight loss. System only operates at start up. It replaces the cat in the uppipe. Forces warm air into the cat to preheat it to operating temperature at start up. Reduces emissions. Big waste of space. Car warms up fine, lol.

Youll get like +1hp, for every -7lbs you gain 1hp
Can you feel the powaa m sprank?

BTW thats what someone told me, Dont know if its true

My old race team owner used to swear that -7lbs equaled 1 HP. I threatened to cut off my head to gain 2 HP, just to get him to shut up about it, lol.

If anything the loss of a few extra pounds up front is a good thing. Like cutting the battery in half. It is less unsprung weight hanging over the front end. Since the car can't tell its gone, seems like a no brainer.

I am even considering getting an 05 oil filler neck now to make oil changes easier. Current fill neck is close to my fuel lines and cold side pipe.

Jesus Mike, you are all over the place with your car. What will Mike do next? Hahaha

You have no idea, lol. I am in the middle of several different projects at once now. Motor is still in pieces (get new ideas every other day). Interior is out, wiring stereo system now.

This is taking much longer than I originally planned. But it is the first time I am not in a rush and dont need the car. So, rather than get frustrated because I have to throw it back together again I am taking the time to do it RIGHT the first time. Plus, I decided to go all out. That is itself means a massive undertaking. When I said I was going to build a show car I meant it. Notice how the engine bay is already taking on a distinct blue hue?