I just about finished writing the walkthrough, and I accidently x'ed out of the page and lost it all.
As a result of my love for LGT.com, I will try this again....
So before we begin, any modification resulting in any damage to your vehicle is totally up to your own discretion. I will take no responsibility! This mod was done on a 2006 Legacy 2.5GT 5MT Limited. I cannot guarantee the same results on a different year/model/trim!
If you're not comfortable with wiring, beginner-intermediate mods (bumper removal, clearing headlights, basic wiring), this mod MAY not be for you, but you never know. It's pretty easy, but usually people are just too afraid to try.
You'll need to purchase 3157A LED bulbs, NOT 3157. I bought the 3157 LED bulb before and it just had one light setting (bright) and not dim/bright for the running/parking and blinker application. I purchased mine from www.partsamerica.com
(link is: http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...rtNumber=3157A
Next, you'll need to buy two (2) load resistors, one for each bulb. I bought mine from www.superbrightleds.com
The link should lead you to page 1 and it's about 1/8 from the bottom of the screen and looks like:
RL-650 Tail Light Load Resistor kit
You'll need to buy two of these, one for each bulb.
When you receive these items, you're ready to begin!
1.) Remove the bumper and grill (follow the walkthroughs for the clearing/blackout headlights mod).
2.) If you have the stock intake setup, remove the snorkel and airbox. For those with aftermarket intakes, you should be okay (except for the AEM intake which snakes down to the foglight area). You'll be working in that area, so you may run into problems with the AEM setup.
3.) Peel back the wheel lining and find the wires that lead to the turn signal housing. Trace the wires back behind the horns, and a bit farther until you reach and area where you can freely work with about 4-5" of wiring.
4.) Carefully peel back or cut back the trimming so you're exposed with three wires. They should be RED/WHITE (+), BLUE/BLACK (+), and BLACK (-).
5.) Using the blue t-clamps (or vampire clamps), open the clamp up so that the blue plastic is in a 180º position. It may sound foreign if you've never worked with these clips, but it'll make sense when you have them in your hand. When you open up the clip, one hole is exposed from an "O" position, to a "C" position, so you can slide in the wire you want to tap into without cutting the wire. Feed the RED/WHITE [+] (turn signal) wire into the open slot and close the clamp so that the blue plastic is in the 90º position (like you see in the picture above).
6.) Feed one end of the load resistor wires (doesn't matter which side) into the closed-end holes of the clamp. Once both wires are neatly in place, close the clamp with a pair of pliers until it locks. Check to make sure that the wire you tapped into is securely and neatly tapped into.
7.) Do the same with the BLACK[-] (negative) ground wire. When you're finished, it should look something like this:
yellow = load resistor wire 1
red = ground (-) wire
magenta = load resistor wire 2
green = blinker(+) wire
Essentially, what you're doing is this:
pardon me for the poor diagram haha
8.) Replace your old 3157A bulb with your new LED bulb. It may seem like it doesn't fit snugly, but if you put a bit of pressure on it, you'll hear a *snap* as it locks into place. MAKE SURE you lock it into place! The first time I did this, I didn't make sure it was secure and when I put it back in my headlamp housing, the bulb almost dropped in there!
I would've died if I had to spend all that time baking my headlights again for the 4th time!
TEST IF YOUR LIGHT WORKS! If it doesn't, it's probably due to poor connections with the clamps. MAKE SURE that your clamp is neatly cutting into your wires at a perpendicular angle!
9.)Secure the clamps with some electric tape to minimize weather-related problems.
This side is a bit trickier because there's less space to work with, but I found that removing your driver's side headlight housing gives a lot more space to work with.
10.) Follow the steps above up to pulling back the wheel lining.
11.) Peel back the wiring again, but this time you'll only have about 3-4" to work with.
12.) For some ODD reason, the blinker wire is color coded differently. Ground[-] is still BLACK, but the blinker is now GREEN/BLACK[+] and the running/parking is WHITE/BLACK[+]. I have NO clue why they did this, but this is just how it is.
13.) Follow the same steps as the passenger side - one end on the GREEN/BLACK(+) wire, and the other end on the GROUND(-) wire.
green - blinker(+)
yellow - load resistor wire 1
red - ground(+)
magenta - load resistor wire 2
14.) Replace your bulb and TEST!
15.) Clean up, tape up! Make sure your resistors are in a safe spot. They tend to get hot, so make sure they're not directly touching any wires/plastic.
NOTE- if your flashers stop working for some odd reason, you most likely just burned the fuse for the flashers. I believe it's no.14 in the hood fuse box and it takes a 15A fuse, which you may have a spare in the fusebox.