Choosing a head unit for my 2.5i...assistance requested

In my 08 Legacy, I really just want to listen to music at moderate levels and to have the MP3 capability with a sat radio option. Fortunately, I have the option of an aftermarket HU. I want a simple solution at the lowest possible price.

 

Because of all of the adapters and whatnot, it costs about $45-55 for the faceplate, harness, antenna adapter, etc. for the Legacy. For that reason, and given that I am a cheap-@$$, Crutchfield (GASP!) is looking good as an option. Unfortunately, while I get all of the adapters and the Metra dash kit, I don't really like their offerings.

 

So anyway, I have Alpine TypeS coaxials in the doors and the stock HU just cannot push enough watts to hear much with the sunroof open, so I want to do a bit more.

 

I have a Basslink to add to help a bit on the bottom end, but that won't help me up front.

 

I have a buddy on another forum who owns an audio shop and can get me a good price on Eclipse, but no adapters/mounting kits for free (as with Crutchfield). Here are my current thoughts:

 

All have the MP3 CD capability that I want, but some lack Sat radio control.

 

I am linking to the crutchfield pages, since it is easy...

 

Eclipse CD2000:

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-DJSdQbciIIB/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?i=099CD2000

Pros:

3 5V preouts, 1 dedicated subwoofer

Eclipse quality

Sirrius, iPod, and HD radio control options

Cons:

No remote (but optional)

No XM option

No Aux-in

Ugly as all getout...

 

Eclipse CD1200:

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?search=cd1200&i=099CD1200

Pros:

Looks better than the CD2000

Nice, plain appearance with all of the functions on the face

Eclipse quality

2 ~2V preouts

Aux-in (rear) and USB-in (front) and iPod control

Cons:

No remote (optional)

No Sat radio option

No front 3.5mm input

 

On top of that, I am still considering...

 

Pioneer DEH-P3000IB:

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=300&i=130P3000IB&search=Pioneer+VENDORID130&searchdisplay=Pioneer&tp=5684

Pros:

Remote

2 pre-outs (1 can be subwoofer-dedicated)

HP and LP filters (line- and signal-level)

Remote

iPod/Sat option

"List" function for MP3 media

Front 3.5mm input

Looks pretty good

Cons:

No preset buttons on the face, and the control is a pain to work

Feels cheap when I operate it

 

and I would love to find a back-stock Pioneer DEH-P4900IB [...or the Premier DEH-P490IB (same as below but longer warranty)]:

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-nks0SE4NfFb/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?i=130DEHP490

Pros:

Like the operation, looks good, full-face with all of my controls on the face

iPod, aux in (optional), and sat radio controls

Cons:

Don't know if I can find one.

 

I have always had Pioneers but have heard good reviews of Eclipse, so I added them to consideration. I have never had Kenwood or Alpine...thoughts on their models in the $100-150 price range? Any other suggestions in that price range?

Eclipse is worth it. I love the sound quality.

I actually just bought this one:

 

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?search=pioneer+6000&i=130P6000UB

 

I also bought a Alpine 500W RMS x 1 @ 2ohms Amp with a Alpine 500W RMS DVC Sub from there as well. The install is hopefully happening this weekend as long as the stuff gets here by Friday which I was assured it will and it doesn't rain on Saturday. Also the cabin speakers might be getting replaced depending on how the aftermarket head unit sounds with stock speakers. If it doesn't get here by Saturday, or if it rains, of it the guy who is helping me can't make it this weekend, then it will be next weekend.

 

I am also planning to post a complete walk-through for all and any installs I do including the above.

I actually just bought this one:

 

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?search=pioneer+6000&i=130P6000UB

 

I also bought a Alpine 500W RMS x 1 @ 2ohms Amp with a Alpine 500W RMS DVC Sub from there as well. The install is hopefully happening this weekend as long as the stuff gets here by Friday which I was assured it will and it doesn't rain on Saturday. Also the cabin speakers might be getting replaced depending on how the aftermarket head unit sounds with stock speakers. If it doesn't get here by Saturday, or if it rains, of it the guy who is helping me can't make it this weekend, then it will be next weekend.

 

I am also planning to post a complete walk-through for all and any installs I do including the above.

 

I think I have the older version of that. I have the DEH-P6900UB. Its a good unit that can put out some nice sound and after a while it does get easy to use!

I think I have the older version of that. I have the DEH-P6900UB. Its a good unit that can put out some nice sound and after a while it does get easy to use!

 

You're right that is the older version of that. I did skim through the manual and it does seem that the settings will take a bit getting used to... but oh well.

I just picked up the 4000ub for $148 shipped through crutchfield (I have a discount code), but I am considering sending it back and for $25 more going with the 5000ub...Is the flip-open face and second display line really worth it? The only thing that I really lose is the front-panel Aux-in...

 

Thoughts?

 

4000ub:

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=300&i=130DEHP4UB&tp=5684

 

5000ub:

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=300&i=130DEHP500&tp=5684

I just picked up the 4000ub for $148 shipped through crutchfield (I have a discount code), but I am considering sending it back and for $25 more going with the 5000ub...Is the flip-open face and second display line really worth it? The only thing that I really lose is the front-panel Aux-in...

 

Thoughts?

 

4000ub:

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=300&i=130DEHP4UB&tp=5684

 

5000ub:

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=300&i=130DEHP500&tp=5684

 

Yeah I'd definately go with the 5000ub, for $25 it even looks a lot classier than the 4000ub. And even though neither of the button colors (green on the 4000ub and blue on the 5000ub), I think red and blue would look better than red and green. All that plus your above 2 points I think make it worth and extra $25.

Yeah I'd definately go with the 5000ub, for $25 it even looks a lot classier than the 4000ub. And even though neither of the button colors (green on the 4000ub and blue on the 5000ub), I think red and blue would look better than red and green. All that plus your above 2 points I think make it worth and extra $25.

Yeah, thinking the same thing, since they pay return shipping if I am dissatisfied for any reason. It will push back buying my HIDs for a month, but I think that in the long run, the 5000 will be a better bet.

 

I just wish that I had thought of it sooner, as I will have the HU monday and want to get it installed ASAP...because I am impatient.

I just finished installing my old eclipse into my new car and still like the controls of the older style better (for me anyway). I did look at the pioneer though and liked the functionality of the big Knob on the front, but not too sure of using it while driving to change settings. I am going to upgrade my current radion when someone makes a reasonably priced (under $500) hu with good sq, built in blutooth, usb, cd, hd radio, sirrus/xm tuner, a D-A converter that will process my ipod tunes instead of letting the ipod do it (the new alpine ipod oly radios do this now), and is dead unit (no built in amp). Having a built in x-over would not be bad, but not necessary as all of my amps have them built in already. The best advice I can give anyone is to find a radio you can opperate safely while driving (80 mph around a mountain road). I personally like having a knob, but I have a friend who will only use a touch screen. They drive me crazy, the knob responds so much quicker and easier, imo. A bit of advice though on your install, you do not have to disconnect the blue a/c control wire as the kit will tell you to do and label your cigarette power plug so you can find it during reassembly (a 45 min delay on my install) and use http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1626 to show you how to remove the factory radio, it helped a lot. If you are going to add an amp or two later, you might think about running a the rca's and remote on wire while you have your dash apart, or at least run the wires to the passenger side behind the glove box area. Just a thought. If you want you can check my install thread to see the blue a/c control cable I am refering to, I also have pics of the metra kit as the install progressed. Good luck.

I plan to run the RCAs and remote wire for the sub when I do the HU, and I may stash another RCA run, though I doubt it.

 

That write-up was pretty good. I had no idea I would have to do the console and all of that trim. Thanks for the heads-up...

Now problem, the center console was easy. When you run your rcas, you will want to do it on the passenger side as the battery is located on the drivers side, and that will be the shortest run for your battery to amp and will be less likely to cause engine noise. (http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1312191#post1312191) will help to guide you when you are ready to run the wire for your amp. This the link to my install http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86731 , if you have any questions ask away, it is still very fresh on my mind and I am not 100% finished yet. Good luck and have fun.

I saw your install and was impressed.

 

I thought I was the only persone who used HVAC zip-ties for routing wires...in almost 15 years of shadetree installs, nothing has worked better...

I'm planning on getting the Alpine IDA-X100. Mainly because I'm sick of CDs and would love to finally be able to use my portable 2.5" 100GB drive, and because of how nicely it integrates with the dash colorwise. Here's a pic of Machine Age Victim's car with that radio (sorry for stealing the pic!).

 

http://img355.imageshack.us/img355/753/s0964ys5.jpg

Dude, super long zip ties rule. I used solid copper wire for a while, but it would scratch and doesn't have the springy nature of a zip. An electricton showed me the trick long ago back when I was still in h.s. for running wires through condut. At some point I adapted it to car installs and have never looked back. I know many "professional" installers who use them.

I like the Alpine hu, but I still want to play cd's. After listening to my ipod and comparing it to the identical song on cd, the cd sounds so much better. I love the size, storage, and ease of use of the pod, but there is a trade off in sq....I understand that the new gen of alpine ipod h/u's use on board d-a converters that will help make compressed files sound better.

I have everything working in my car and realize that I will need to do more dynamating and tuning. Ahhh the joys of fine tuning your system going from cabin to trunk and back again with my little screwdriver in hand. Time to buy a new box of bandaids and a tube of antibotic ointment so I can do more dynamat..

Like I said, I have a good h/u that i am using for now...in a few years when one comes out that does what I want it to do for a reasonable price, I will upgrade. Good luck with yours and know that if you are going to use any power in your system you will need a crap load of sound deading material to keep your car from ratteling.

Dude, super long zip ties rule. I used solid copper wire for a while, but it would scratch and doesn't have the springy nature of a zip. An electricton showed me the trick long ago back when I was still in h.s. for running wires through condut. At some point I adapted it to car installs and have never looked back. I know many "professional" installers who use them.

I like the Alpine hu, but I still want to play cd's. After listening to my ipod and comparing it to the identical song on cd, the cd sounds so much better. I love the size, storage, and ease of use of the pod, but there is a trade off in sq....I understand that the new gen of alpine ipod h/u's use on board d-a converters that will help make compressed files sound better.

I have everything working in my car and realize that I will need to do more dynamating and tuning. Ahhh the joys of fine tuning your system going from cabin to trunk and back again with my little screwdriver in hand. Time to buy a new box of bandaids and a tube of antibotic ointment so I can do more dynamat..

Like I said, I have a good h/u that i am using for now...in a few years when one comes out that does what I want it to do for a reasonable price, I will upgrade. Good luck with yours and know that if you are going to use any power in your system you will need a crap load of sound deading material to keep your car from ratteling.

I sent the 4000ub back and got the 5000ub on the way, so that issue is settled.

 

I did full deadening in the doors on my SpecV, but have not done it yet on the 2.5i. I HATE the door handles on the Legacy...

 

Have you just applied mass loading, or have you also considered some barrier membrane? I know it sounds completely ghetto, btu I used "Frost King" adhesive foam (9-11" wide on a roll) from Lowes. I taped it on the edges with aluminiuzed HVAC tape and it held in sub-zero and 100< temps for over a year. When I did my un-install to sell the car, it was still working great, and there was a huge improvement in road noise from the front door. It was cheap and availabnle locally, so it was a win in my book. When I finish the 2.5i install, I will be doing both the mass and barrier deadening...

I did the matting on doors and some on the panels, but did not load them...it looks as if I will need to do it now. I have used similar (or maybe even the same) type of adhesive backed foam as you have...I think I bought mine at home depot, but yea it works fine as long as you do not have to remove the panel too many times the stuff holds up great. I also haven't matted the trunk yet, I stopped at the rear shelf and started to wire up my amps...impatience...I have heard the trunk bits rattle as I have been tuning my amps. I did do the license plate tho, that was the first thing I matted. I so have that, a car pulls up next to you, they have a bit of bass and all of a sudden a low note comes across and you hear the flapping of the license plate, now that is ghetto.

I know I have more work to do (the amp area is one big rats nest of wires right now, I need to shorten wires, loom everything, pretty it up, and carpet my amp rack), but am leaving for a trip on fri and will be on the road for a while, I may just have to live with it as is for now..btw, the door handles are not that bad...I used a plastic tipped screwdriver to push the handle down and they pop off easily from there. You can use anything plastic and wedge shapped to do this and prevent scratches.