This is the story of the EZGT
2006 Regal Blue pearl Legacy GT 5mt Limited acquired for $4400 was priced at a dealership for $6995 (see condition) Can you find a WRX or STI for that price?
This is geared to be a sleeper street/strip drag car/DD
Short term goals are 380-420WHP depending on the torque curve (turbo) I go with
Long term will be ~1100 whp with a Built EZ30 swap and twins on a scavenger pump.
So my hopes for this thread will be to serve as a compiled resource to those wanting to swap in an H6 or even just to learn more about the legacy's capabilities. I'm trying to get all the pertinent research I've done here in one place.
I've always liked the thought of a sleeper STI, and after doing more recent research, I found they weigh the same as their STI brothers (05-06 LGT to 05-06 STI) and have virtually the same engine. tbc on head details.
It's never easy to break new ground. I'm not necessarily the first but I hope to be the most detailed so you know all the big (and little) things (frustrations and resolutions to such) along the way to H6 goodness. So if you have info in regards to this feel free to chime in as the thread evolves.
I've always liked turbo Subaru's and I dearly miss my 02 ej207 v7 spec C vf22 mbp wagon. it became somewhat of an icon in my town for well rounded performance. Even though the speed density tune was below 9 in afr's.. I miss the sound, I miss the recognition, I miss shaming new performance mustangs and z06's on the strip, I miss the fun!
The sound of a hot H6 is something you need to experience in person, driving one is also amazing the torque curve is great. Now add twins and you have all that plus an amazing power curve. (Think 911 turbo sound and grunt)
I'm going to rock the OEM LGT 5mt with the OEM 4.11 R160 rear diff 5mt to shoot for minimal shifts on the 0-60 / 1/4mi. That will receive an R180 upgrade before I make the H6 swap. I'm going to reinforced with Moore performance blast plates. The legacy GT transmission is already arguably the best 5MT Subaru made. It's stronger than the wrx tranny and I've seen many a LGT 5mt hold 400-450hp for years.
Here is a quick read with picks on the LGT tranny gear thickness vs WRX vs STI with pics: http://flatironsrally.typepad.com/faq/2010/05/comparison-of-subaru-gear-sets-wrx-legacy-gt-sti-ra-and-more.html
Before adding a turbo upgrade and blast plates I'm going to have the 5mt tolerances checked and fresh bearings installed to maximize the ability of the plates. If that breaks I plan on doing a failure analysis and depending on what type of failure I'm going to go with all new internals again with a 1-4 PPG gearset and the plates OR a 6 speed. I have faith that we might be able to make the 5mt a hero by the time I'm done.
I've seen a LGTB grenade a 6mt even with the open front diff.. around 750 whp. So I'm wondering if it's possible to approach this level with a braced built 5mt. I also am aware of the R160 weakness as I've grenaded 1 in my past with the ej207.
As far as choosing a donor car to start with here are some thoughts:
It looks like It's a toss up between mechanical and wiring:
If you want to deal with mostly mechanical and some ECU reprogramming
and a dash swap (to remove the auto gear indicator) go with a 3.0r as they are only auto. and you could build the existing motor unless you want a built auto. then stay 05-06 and get a hexmods valve body. Might be the way to go to sort out all the tuning and minimize downtime for now.
If you want to deal with mostly wiring and get a new ECU (or sacrifice pinouts) go with a 2.5GT with Moore blast plates or a 07+ GT Spec B (with a 6 speed) The motor will bolt to the tranny. But you still have to install a motor then wire it in.
A couple of the unknowns (to me) are going to be speed indicator sensor where and how it works with each setup, flywheel and clutch setup (probably an 07+WRX clutch and flywheel) This will be sorted out later in the thread and I will cover it as well.
Without further ado, Here is the current condition of the car:
So it looks like someone thought they would upgrade the brakes and hood scoop! Body is straight but Blue rattle can on calipers and marker on a ding.. the interior is also special.
Maybe a "kid" had it and thought it would be cool? I'm not going to knock it, just change it to my style and get some things fixed properly.
Someone once told me "the attitude you have toward your car is reflected in the appearance and upkeep of it"
I have plans to make it look completely stock before I do any major upgrades as I always want it to have a clean look.
Tan leather, good condition one small tear on the right side of the drivers seat.
otherwise needs minor cleaning/conditioning. This car wasn't detailed. Seems like it arrived from a basic cleanup to sell at auction and the dealership that bought it stopped when the mechanic didn't understand subie mechanical.
Seems good, good action, clutch seems good but due to motor is not completely known as to holding power.
It runs but it is getting all four cylinder misfire codes.
In idle it's pretty rough and acts like it will die coming to a stop with it out of gear.
I was told the turbo was new and just replaced but it wasn't the dealership that did it. (That's all I know about the past I usually try and contact previous owner always a good idea to learn a lot about what was done)
when going into higher rpm's/boost it seems to remedy the misfires temporarily but also has a funny sound which is possibly BPV or throw out bearing it's sounds like a chortling whistle under load to my best description it could very well be the leak wherever it is.
I plan on pulling a learning view and doing a log to show what's going on. My best guess is either it happened before the turbo and turbo was a potential remedy to the previous owner and is a vacuum leak OR the turbo died and after replacing it gave up after it didn't run right and they missed a gasket or didn't tighten something. if all four are misfiring it's a good indicator you have a vacuum leak between the MAF and the throttle body.
One easy way to check if you have a vacuum leak vs an internal engine problem like valve damage or poor compression is to unplug the MAF sensor on the turbo inlet behind the filter. This should switch it to a default speed density tune and stop missing because it will no longer read less air than what is going in (as some may be coming in in a leak) which is reducing the fuel being injected. I didn't think of this when I made the purchase but honestly didn't care, I just wanted to seal the deal.
Very important for 05-06 LGT's: VAG-COM is a $9 cable that you can use to pull a stock tune, edit/retune, and flash back to the ecu. Most importantly, learning view, priceless free software allows you to check current fine knock settings and vacuum/boost leaks and at what rpm. It's a great quick diagnostic. You cannot beat this $9 upgrade. Only one thing, you must get the kind with a specific chip. I will post the chip number and how to find one for yourself when we do the diagnostic. There are generic stage 2 tunes online (use caution and contact a tuner if you don't know what you are doing) but basically if you have done the exhaust (up/downpipe, catback) and intake upgrade, you could download ~40hp to your car. I would also suggest a GM EBCS.
Everything else mechanically seems sound but hasn't been confirmed.
That'll be for next week!
I'm pretty excited to get into this project, for now it awaits pickup in Tulsa. It'll be delivered to me on the 13th.
I'll keep you guys posted
In the meantime here is what happened tonight:
Hmm what's that blue thing for?
There we go, Misfires solved. No more CEL's
Engine logged great with my $9 ebay cable. If you want one do a search on ebay for this exact phrase: vag com FT232BL First result is currently $9 MAKE SURE IT HAS "FT232BL"
With this cable you can use
With learning view:
Learning view helps you track down boost/vac leaks and tell you what throttle level you are leaking in vac? or after boost or both? how much?
It helps you find knock and show roughly where it is in the table without necessarily logging just plug it in and pull a learning view
It shows you an instant IAM so you can see if you are running at full timing advance or if you may have bad fuel.
It will show you all existing AND memorized error codes since last ecu reset
It will let you reset your ecu without pulling the battery cable
With Rom Raider:
You can log
you can have FAST extremely low latency updates from your ECU on any given parameter in graph, analog or digital dials or logged to a spreadsheet
You can pull your OEM ECU programming and maps and save for a backup
You can edit all of the parameters including disabling CEL's (and associated limp modes) for items like rear 02 sensor, air pump etc
You can edit or remove the speed limiter
You can increase your boost, timing, fueling etc
going to 1200cc injectors? how about editing injector scaling to say 1200cc and viola, your injectors are ready for fine tuning
You can even put launch control on the ecu with this tool (requires some advanced knowledge or a map that has it already)
Is all of this worth $9?
I saved $691 buying this instead of a Cobb AP. But I'm not your average Subaru driver.
If you want a canned tune wham bam tym get a cobb. otherwise..