Clean V-1 Install

Here is how I installed my V-1 Radar Detector in my 2005 Legacy Wgn LGT. I used the 3 components supplied for a remote install: The Radar Detector, the Remote Audio Adapter and the Concealed Display Unit.

 

I installed the Detector to the right and behind the mirror so that it is barley visible from outside the vehicle and has a clear field of view. All the wires run behind the plastic cover that conceals the rear view mirror wires. Providing that clean, uncluttered look. From there the wires run under the headboard liner to the front left A pillar, then down the behind the A Pillar cover to the fuse panel where I installed the V-1 Direct-Wire Power Adapter. The whole system is hard wired to a switched circuit in the fuse box so that the V-1 automatically comes on when I turn the car on.

 

The Concealed Display Unit fit nicely on the little shelf in front of the dashboard directly under the trip meter reset button. I liked this position because it makes the display unit clearly visible while driving. It’s like an integral part of the dash.

 

The Remote Audio Adapter I decided to install to the left of the shifter and just in front of the parking break so that it is out of sight yet easily controlled while driving. In that position I can easily turn the unit on/off and mute it while driving.

Slick install.......AWESOME job....

Slick install.......AWESOME job....

Agreed. I like it a lot. If I ever leave VA and decide to mount mine, now I have a plan of attack.

Thanx Guys!

Agreed, very clean-the only way to do it! Now I just need to get a V1!!!

danbart,

 

That was a really nice install. I am about to do a similar install with my Bel radar detector. Can you tell me what switched fuse slot you used during the install (one that turns off with the car)? I hope to do mine this weekend, and you might be able to save me a lot of trouble. Thanks.

danbart,

 

That was a really nice install. I am about to do a similar install with my Bel radar detector. Can you tell me what switched fuse slot you used during the install? I hope to do mine this weekend, and you might be able to save me a lot of trouble. Thanks.

Very nice and clean install!

 

-Tyler

yes, nice install!

 

that's funny, i just did my V1 install last weekend too. i didn't really like it on the side of the mirror for some reason, so i just put it underneith. ran the wire up the plastic. I know it's probably more safe to install it on the side, but if it gets stolen, maybe it will give me incentive to do that for the next detector.

 

i hard wired it to a wire coming out of the fuse box. i got a continuity tester, but since i got the wrong size batteries, i just went for a trial and error for a wire that turns on with the car. ( 2nd try )

 

the only difference is that i mounted the display on the left side of the dash instead of the right. i used the curved back piece to force the wire to come out of the right side instead of the left.

Curious: Is the V1 in this configuation prone to theft? I once left a radar detector on the dash of my car in a parking garage and returned to a shattered window sans detector. I'm now in the habbit of leaving nothing in the car visible from outside. Is the V1 detector behind the mirror removeable? I see that its behind the glass shading; does that factor into its theft risk?

To find a switched power source I looked in the manual for an accessory fuse, then double checked it w/a multi meter. Radio Shack sells these adapters that allow you to piggyback off a fuse. It's called a fuse tap. Radio Shack PN:270-1204

To find a switched power source I looked in the manual for an accessory fuse, then double checked it w/a multi meter. Radio Shack sells these adapters that allow you to piggyback off a fuse. It's called a fuse tap. Radio Shack PN:270-1204

My Bel direct wire kit came with such an adapter. This will be a good project for me to figure out how to use my multimeter (got one the other day on sale at Sears). Thanks for the info.

To find a switched power source I looked in the manual for an accessory fuse, then double checked it w/a multi meter. Radio Shack sells these adapters that allow you to piggyback off a fuse. It's called a fuse tap. Radio Shack PN:270-1204

FYI, I tried these fuse taps from Radioshack....and after an 1hr+ trying to get the dang things to work...I just couldn't. I think with the fuse inserted it was too thick to press into the fuse slot. I even tried filing it down quite a bit, but no luck. I finally went to Autozone and picked me up a $7 piggyback adapter, which did the trick.

can the rear sensor see back? isnt the mirror blocking it? or do u have it to the side enough?

mine does well.

Great install! I want to do the same, however, I do not have the self dimming, power mirror and thus so not have the trim piece used to hide the mirror wire. Any thoughts on where I can get the trim piece or alternate solution?

What Can I Do If I Dont Have That Type Of Mirror

It is blocking the rear laser sensor i believe.

It is blocking the rear laser sensor i believe.

Healthy bump, but +1.

Where did you get your Concealed Display Unit?

Valentine Research offers the Concealed Display Unit, as well as the remote volume control, direct off their website.

 

eBay also sees a seller who sells a "slimline" version of the same display.

 

Also, on RadarDetector.net, which is an enthusiast Forum for countermeasures nuts , there's someone by the screen-name of "Lifespeed" who sells/modifies the V1 display and incorporates the use of your-choice colored LEDs in order to help your visual recognition of both different threats as well as threat "intensity." I'm not sure if he offers a "slimline" case conversion, though.

Yeah i tried to find the concealed unit on valentinesones main website but i couldnt seem to find it.

 

Daniel

^ Go to their official website, then use the Nav-bar at the top to go to "Our Store."

 

It'll be there, the third product down.

 

Item number 20110, $39.00, "Concealed Display with band identification."