SPEC Clutch and Flywheel Pedal Travel Question

Hey guys. I just got my car back from getting the new Spec LW flywheel and Stage2 clutch pack installed. It feels great and everything, but I'm having one small issue. The pedal travel seems to be just a hair long near the floor. When you depress the pedal; it releases the disc and it shifts fine. The problem is that if you push the pedal to the floor it overshoots the sweet spot. If the pedal were to stop about 1/4"-1/2" earlier everything would be perfect.

 

It's my understanding that the only adjustment to the throw of the clutch engagement mechanism(pedal,mc,sc,fork) is the pedal travel. If guess the question is:

 

Will adjusting (shortening) the rod that goes from the pedal into the master cylinder correct this issue?

Or should we just put a screw or something in place of the little rubber pad on the bracket that stops the pedal arm?

 

Any serious theories or suggestions are welcome. I contacted Spec Tech Support and they haven't had this issue before. They are looking into it for me also. I love the feel of the clutch and don't want to damage it before I even get it broke in. I put about 15 miles on it driving it home from the dealer and back and it drove well with this one little exception.

Some more info. You can push the pedal to the floor and start it in neutral and then let off the pedal just a hair and it will go through the gears fine, but if you put the pedal to the floor it won't go into gear. When the pedal is pushed all the way to the floor; it makes a light buzzing sound. I just don't want to adjust it too far and then have it not travel far enough after a little of the disc wears. Any ideas?

You should be able to adjust that out via the pedal adjustment.

 

Trial and error should work just fine, only takes about 5 mins to adjust anyways.

Thanks. That's kinda what I was thinking. I have the OE shop manual and it shows how to adjust it and which direction to turn the rod to make it shorter. I guess it's not really the pedal travel that's the issues since it has to bottom out to hit the starter switch; it's the plunger that goes from the pedal into the master cylinder. We should just be able to shorten up the rod/plunger a tad and not have to mess with the starter switch. If we adjust the pedal travel we would also have to adjust the switch positioning too and I would like to fix it using the most basic method possible so I don't have to go back and undo a bunch of little changes later if it get too short after the break in period.

It is really not that hard.

 

I am real picky and I adjusted mine a few times to get it just right.

 

 

I then had to readjust a bit when the clutch was broken in, no biggie.

Cool. I have to go pick it back up from the dealership in a little bit. If they haven't done it, I will when I get back home.

Got it dialed in. Just took a slight adjustment to the z-rod. Thanks for the input.

Kewl. Give us an update after the break in period.

Yup. I'll start a new thread with pics of parts removed and new parts that went in. So far it's been pretty schmoove.

Update. After adjusting the travel; it started acting up again. Solution: Bleed the slave cylinder. The Subaru tech fogot to do it after he put the tranny back in. I bled it today and it feels and sounds much better and hopefully it will stick this time. Review should be posted in a week or so.

Update. After adjusting the travel; it started acting up again. Solution: Bleed the slave cylinder. The Subaru tech fogot to do it after he put the tranny back in. I bled it today and it feels and sounds much better and hopefully it will stick this time. Review should be posted in a week or so.

 

At least it is not too hard to bleed.

 

Glad you got it fixed.

Ya, you gotta love the way the pedal sucks down to the floor and stays there. Makes it much easier when going solo. I was getting a little whine from the TOB since the slave wasn't retracting all the way.

I pick up mine with the 2+ today. Excited to get the car back.

Old thread I know but...

 

I was adjusting my 05 LGT pedal today and I have about 5mm of extra pedal throw. I tried adjusting the switch and what not, and then realized that in order to get the throw shorter I'd need to adjust that Z rod thing. I'm thinking that I too am overshooting the sweet spot.

 

I took off the e clip from the pin, but I had a real hard time pulling the pin out. I tried wiggling the pedal to take some tension off the pin, but to no avail. I'm sure that I could get the pin off, but I think if it is this hard to come off I might not ever be able to get it back in.

 

Has anyone removed this pin, and how easy is it to get back in? The spring looks pretty beefy, and it is in a terrible spot to get your hands on. If you have removed the pin, what direction do you need to turn the shaft in order to shorten the throw (as you are looking at the shaft)? I'd have to guess clockwise.

The rod you need to adjust is ABOVE the GAS PEDAL. You disconned the drive by wire connnector for the GAS PEDAL and the CLUTCH is adjusted by loosening the lock nut and spinning the rod with needle nose pliers or you fingers.

Okay thanks, I'm off to try it.

I found that on quarter turn feels better so far. I'd be curious to see how much you turned the shaft to make it shift better....

When I put my Spec LWFW and STG2 Clutch in I had to mess with the clutch pedal travel about a dozen times before I got it perfect. My pedal would travel too far down and overshoot the sweet spot.

You can tell if the rod is adjusted correctly if it moves side to side freely with no binding of that little pin. It takes a little time to get it just right, but you'll get there.

do you guys have pictures of this? i want to try it but don't feel like touching something if i'm unsure what i'm adjusting is the right one!

It's above the gas pedal:

thanks!

I found that it was very helpful to make a white mark on the end of the master cylinder push rod. That way I know how much I adjusted it.

has anyone done a full write up or how to on this? or does someone have a copy of that manual covering this?

 

I just had a ACT HDMM and LWFW put it. after break in I am finiding shifting quickly while pushing the car is causing grinding when there was none before the install.

 

I am thinking from my research it is either this adjustment or a need to bleed the slave.

 

Can anyone help me out. For now as long as i slow shift i can get around just fine. Like i did for the 500 or so miles i broke it in.

any help?

any help?

 

Remind me again in a few hours.