Can emergency brake get stuck in the engaged position? Mine might have.

hi all,

I own a silver 1993 Subaru Legacy wagon LS, AWD with 150,000 miles. My first car.

My emergency brake warning light stays on even after I disengage the brake, and I am wondering if the brake might be locked/frozen in the engaged position. Can this happen?

 

I previously engaged the emergency brake for parking, but recently stopped when this problem arose.

 

While idling, the car moves forward and back like normal, although I notice that the car's modest acceleration seems to be even more modest.

 

I've driven about 170 miles with the warning light on and the brake manually disengaged. My last 1/2 tank gas mileage calculation dropped from an average of 26 MPG to 18 MPG, although I also did a lot more city driving than usual.

 

Any thoughts or similar experiences? Are those warning lights on the dash somewhat screwy, or should I be concerned that my emergency brake is stuck in the engaged or semi-engaged position?

 

Thanks for your help.

Jason

jason--at--jasonstevenson.net

Odds are that it is the switch located just under the parking brake lever.

check your brake fluid level

Are you located in a cold climate area?

check your brake fluid level

 

+1

 

the red light not only tell you if your e-brake is on, it also lights up if your brake fluid is low. check your brake fluid asap!

1.) put car on a level surface, either cement or blacktop driveway is gud.

 

2.) turn off car.... but leave it neutral. disengage emergency brake.

In theory, you should be able to push the car now by hand.

 

3.) push the car. if you can push it.... chances are the brake is DISengaged. So the brakes ARE OFF in reality.

 

4.) That would indicate the stupid emergency brake SWITCH is bad...

either worn out or it has dirt/grease/junk in the switch.... so much

dirt that the spring inside the switch canNOT turn the swith off

when it should.....

 

note: you should be able to remove the switch, get some Electrical

CONTACT CLEANER and hose the switch out.... drench it with the

spray can and at the SAME TIME work the switch's MOVING PARTS

to loosen and work out the dirt/grime. Then, do it again.... drench

it and work it out....... then shake the switch to drive out most of

the wet crap that was in the moving parts...... let air dry for

a while...... hour or so. REinstall the switch. It should be able

to work now.... the spring in the switch should work ok now that

the crap has been cleaned out of switch-guts.

 

'LPS Contact Cleaner' (electrical cleaner) is good.

 

Radio Shack may have something too... like TV TUNER CLEANER.

 

OR... clean it out with rubbing alcohol.....

 

IF you have a test-meter.... VOM, DVM etc.... you can do a

resistance check on it..... or a continuity test.

Work the moving parts on the switch and watch meter.

It should either open or closed on the meter...depending

on the state of the moving part on that switch.

 

hope this helps.

 

Chances are...... D I R T

 

the switch is probably NOT worn out.... just crapped up !

Thank you for all your comments and scenarios.

I called my mechanic, who did a safety inspection a month ago, and he suggested checking the brake fluid level as well. I think that is probably it.

Since it's 11 F outside right now, I will wait until the sun comes up before checking it, as well as trying the push test.

Appreciate the responses.

-JS

It's the brake fluid. The brake light has no idea if the parking brake is actually engaged; it just tells you the position of the lever -- and if the fluid is low.

Here is the easiest way to tell. Forget that 6 step process above.

1. Drive your car fast. Not have to "accelerate fast" just be at 50mph+. Drive for 5 miles.

2. Get out and feel your rear wheels (not tires) if they are warm, it's stuck on. They should be ambient temperate if normal.

 

Why are they warm? It's overheating the brake, and passing it through the hub to your wheels...

I try to avoid using the emergency brake when it's very cold and there's a lot of slush and wet stuff on the road. Then again, I'm not dealing with hills and the car is in the driveway overnight.

It was low brake fluid.

Added some DOT 3 to move the level to max (it was midway between min and mix) and the warning light went away. Very easy - and glad to know the warning light indicates brake fluid level as well as emergency brake position. Last time had the brake fluid flushed was 2 years, 25,000 miles ago, and my mechanic said I didn't need it flushed for a while.

-JS