Stage 1 or 2 break in of new long block

**tlewis7** · #1: 09-11-2010, 09:22 PM

~Was in the process of doing the first data log of Infamous1 stage 2 base tune via AccessPort when a rod bearing went @18.4k miles. SOA authorized the new long block and I am due to have my baby back sometime next week.
~Do I need to go back to the stock DP and ECU settings for the break in period or can I just keep the stage 2 mods and Infamous1 stage 2 base tune as if this was a WRX or STI break in?
~I plan to vary the rpm's and do WOT to the 4k rpm limit during the break in to seat the ringlands. Is this the best way to break in the engine?
~How long should the break in period be?

**tlewis7** · #2: 09-14-2010, 05:43 PM

Comments?

**apexjapan** · #3: 09-14-2010, 07:06 PM

Everybody has their favorite break-in procedures. There's pretty much anecdotal evidence that they all work in some form or another.

This all depends on how *you* drive during break-in, but since I generally hold to the "official" line of keeping below 4000rpm and varying revs, I don't count on the car experiencing much boost. So I doubt downpipe/ecu settings will have much effect on the engine - unless it's knocking terribly.

Again, I stick to the party line and do break-in till 1000miles. I've noticed that when it comes to engine installs (vs. buying car from dealer), it seems a better idea to do the full 1000 miles. Whereas when I get a car from the dealer, they've probably already broken the engine in in the dealer lot...

Regards,

Paul Hansen
www.avoturboworld.com

**NSFW** · #4: 09-15-2010, 02:13 AM

Some food for thought:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2043909

People get religious about it.

I think Paul has a good point, there isn't much hard evidence that says one way is better than another.

I doubt the DP and tune matters for the break-in itself, but I'd probably go back to stock just so that if engine #2 blows up, SOA doesn't stick you with the bill. After 10k miles, I'd consider the motor proven, and get back to modding.

I actually waited until my 3/36 was over, but in retrospect that was overdoing it. Then again, it took me about that long to make up my mind about what I wanted anyways.

**Max Capacity** · #5: 09-15-2010, 02:19 PM

It's all in the tune.

Unless you can trust your map, go back to stock. Break it in for the 1000miles. Ask them about oil changes at 500 miles, then 1500 miles or do they want you to wait untill 3500 miles ?

I wouldn't be so conserned about keeping it below 4000 rpm for the 1000 miles, may the first few miles, but 5000 to 5500 seems more realistic for the first 200 or so.

I have 131,000 miles on my oem engine. I changed oil at 500, 1500, 3000.

Good Luck

**NSFW** · #6: 09-15-2010, 09:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Max Capacity

I have 131,000 miles on my oem engine. I changed oil at 500, 1500, 3000.

126,000 miles is a little longer than I tend to go between oil changes.

**tlewis7** · #7: 09-15-2010, 10:22 PM

Thanks for the input so far. Good food for thought.

**mattg** · #8: 09-16-2010, 08:52 AM

I was easy on my car for the 1st 70 miles or so, then it started to get a little bit of WOT, nothing to redline or anything like that. It probably had a few hundred miles on it before I started to take it up into the higher RPM's.

That worked well for me.

**GTTuner** · #9: 09-16-2010, 10:02 AM

Ok, here is the fart in church;

The first 50 miles are critical to seat the rings. WOT accleration below 4000 rpm for short bursts with some cruise/cool down in between is what I and many engine builders recomend. The cylinder pressures push the rings against the walls to seat them. If you don't allow some cool down, and vary rpms you will glaze the walls and the will never seat. If you baby it too much the same can happen.

I have built two EJ255's, one was using a quart every 500 miles (mine) due to a cracked ringland. The first was a new SB form Subaru. This is how I broke it in. The second (mine) I put forged pistons in and honed the cylinders. Neither car use's any oil. My car went from a quart every 1000 miles (before the ringland broke) to burning nothing in 2500 miles.

I might add I purchased my car new and the wife broke it in babying it on the highway. It used oil from day one. Now it uses none.

An additional suggestion to above is to change the oil and filter after the first 100 miles, DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC until you get at least 3000 miles on the motor or you can see it is not consuming oil.

**Max Capacity** · #**10:** 09-16-2010, 12:10 PM

^ oh like breaking it in on the dyno. I wasn't sure anybody did that here.

Yep, you need to seat the rings.

NSFW not sure what your getting at 126,000 miles OCI ? I'm a little slow some times.

**NSFW** · #**11:** 09-18-2010, 12:32 AM

Nothing serious, it's just that you said you have 131,000 miles, and you've only done three oil changes, so I did a bit of math and that's what I came up with.

Well, you didn't say only three changes, but it was more fun to read it that way.

**Max Capacity** · #**12:** 09-20-2010, 08:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NSFW

Nothing serious, it's just that you said you have 131,000 miles, and you've only done three oil changes, so I did a bit of math and that's what I came up with.

Well, you didn't say only three changes, but it was more fun to read it that way.

Geeezee I didn't think I needed to speel it out more...we were just talking about the break-in. Not forever. LOL