Wiring through the door...

search "door molex" for some other posts. Basically a lot of WD-40 & sweat, plus you can always drill holes in the molex blanks.

Thanks B-Guy. The wifey had a brilliant idea to fish a piece of weed-wacker line through the rubber pathway. We lubed it up with some Pledge (so the car now smells lemony-fresh) and spend an inordinate amount of time getting it through. We ended up ripping out a small piece of grey foam that surrounded the wires near the inside of the car (used either to eliminate rattle noise or to serve as insulation) as it was a serious impediment. After we fed the line through, we taped it to the wire and pulled it right through! I am glad to be done with that!

The WD-40 was the trigger on the idea.. Many thanks!

PolarDog

If you're using 14AWG stranded, as the manual for 530T says, it's tight getting 4 new lines in that conduit.. I fished a piece of stiff wire through first. Keep in mind you only really need to use 14AWG on the two motor side lines.. on the switch side you could get away with much less thickness, as they are only used for signal.. 20AWG for those 2 is plenty, doing this makes the total bundle going into each door easier.

Scott

the trick is to access both sides - the kick panel and behind the speaker in the door. Use some wire glide vs. WD40....it will make things a bit easier. I ran Monster Cable 14-4 in - there's certainly room for it, but it's tight.

pull the grommet out inside the door jamb - this allows you access to the wire in a more efficient place to work it through. The rubber is also two piece - you can unwrap the tape and this makes it much easier - just tape it back together:

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/PatagonianGT/stereo/rubberconduit.jpg

there's a plastic clip over the other end in the kickpanel:

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/PatagonianGT/stereo/kickpanel.jpg

i have two tricks to do this:

1. go get a wire pass through tool, this looks like a screw driver, but instead of a blade, its got a hollow tube that runs allt he way into the handle, you basically stick this from one end of the rubber tube to the other, an pass wires through, and then pull out the tool

2. if you are lazy, go get a chop stick, and some pam or grease or oil, duck tape the wire you need to run onto the chopstick, then coat it with some crease, so it will stick right through the rubber, tube, once its out the other side, spearate the chopstick, and you have your wire through

b

If you're using 14AWG stranded, as the manual for 530T says, it's tight getting 4 new lines in that conduit.. I fished a piece of stiff wire through first. Keep in mind you only really need to use 14AWG on the two motor side lines.. on the switch side you could get away with much less thickness, as they are only used for signal.. 20AWG for those 2 is plenty, doing this makes the total bundle going into each door easier.

 

Scott

Aha. I did it a bit differently. I put the 530 in the door and fished the 12V and chassis ground back through to the cabin (in addition to the two smaller wires to attach to the lock/unlock functions... ...more in the other thread on this...)

Thanks very much for your help on this and the other threads!

PolarDog

the trick is to access both sides - the kick panel and behind the speaker in the door. Use some wire glide vs. WD40....it will make things a bit easier. I ran Monster Cable 14-4 in - there's certainly room for it, but it's tight.

 

pull the grommet out inside the door jamb - this allows you access to the wire in a more efficient place to work it through. The rubber is also two piece - you can unwrap the tape and this makes it much easier - just tape it back together:

 

there's a plastic clip over the other end in the kickpanel:

 

Yeah, we did use some lubricant. Not sure we would have succeeded without it. We also peeled apart the grommet: I got the one that was attached to the door off, but I couldn't budge the one in the car. I guess it loosened the path up a bit. I taped it back together. I couldn't help but wonder if they could have designed that a bit better....

I did remove the plastic clip. I tried to uncouple the plug, but I failed. I was too angry at wasting soooo much time on this. My wife sensed my anger and came out to help (very lucky for me!)

Thanks for your insights and ideas!

PolarDog

i have two tricks to do this:

 

1. go get a wire pass through tool, this looks like a screw driver, but instead of a blade, its got a hollow tube that runs allt he way into the handle, you basically stick this from one end of the rubber tube to the other, an pass wires through, and then pull out the tool

 

2. if you are lazy, go get a chop stick, and some pam or grease or oil, duck tape the wire you need to run onto the chopstick, then coat it with some crease, so it will stick right through the rubber, tube, once its out the other side, spearate the chopstick, and you have your wire through

 

b

Yeah I called around to find a fish or snake tool (or whatever they call it now). Radio Shack did carry it and Home Depot was too much of an adventure in and of itself....

The chopstick idea was intriguing, but it made me hungry!!

Thanks for the ideas!

PolarDog

EDIT: Radio Shack DIDN'T carry it..