Speaker Install

New to the forum - just bought 2005 Legacy GT wagon. Want to upgrade speakers and have been unable to find information on door panel removal. Would much prefer to start this task with the some knowledge as opposed to learning as I go. Can you help me out?...Thanks!

I've taken the doors off of mine, but it would be hard to explain in words. Just go to your dealer and ask them for a diagram on how to do it unless you can find one online. My dealer simply had a little diagram they copied for me. In case you're wondering, though, 5 1/4" speakers in all four doors.

I thought the door speakers were 6.5" in all four. :?

Well I'm expecting 6.5s to fit with spacers as has been documented elsewhere on the forum. Overall approach - I've done this on a WRX wagon with good success: Use a LOC off factory head unit to provide signal to 4-channel amp. Front channel will power new front speakers (Infinity 6002s) while rear will be bridged to a sub-woofer in wagon's cargo area. Will use rear channel of factory deck for rear speakers (also Infinitys) - more for fill than anything. I've been able to find wiring definition for speakers and have instructions for accessing deck. Now if I could get instructions for panel removal - even a short verbal description would be appreciated. Anyone?...Thanks.

Roll window down.The first step to the door panel removal is to take off the door handle cover (the grab handle face)to get to the two screws that secure the panel to the door frame. Whatever you do, do not use a screwdriver or any tool to pry it off or you WILL scratch something. The trick is to PUSH UP with the base of your palm on the door panel while twisting the cover toward the front. The cover has a nub at both ends and once they clear the cover comes right off. If you must, pry at the top of the face your needing to again to remove the "face" of the grab handle The other screw is behind the door opener cover and can be popped out with a skinny screwdriver. Once all 3 screws are off, it just a matter of pulling the door panel off. It really helps if you have one of those door panel tools, but if not then a firm tug will also do. Start at the bottom of the panel. Good luck

Excellent, I'll use your instructions. Thank you.

Hey Cascade (named for the hop?), Did you have any luck with that door panel? I have tried a couple of times, and can't get it to budge. My dealer says that he tried removing one, and broke the handle (which of course they replaced). Let us know how it goes...

bossies1, No hops just mountains...I live in the Cascade foothills thus the name. Although I do appreciate hops which have fullfilled their potential.... My speakers are in shipment so I won't start until late in the week. I'll do an exploratory to see if I want to complete the install myself. While it doesn't seem too difficult, I may relie on a local installer who does good work at a reasonable price. Did you ever complete an upgrade? Amazing that your dealer broke your handle.

I'm a homebrewer, so when I see Cascades, I'm like Homer...mmm...hops... Anyway, the dealer didn't break my handle, but someone elses. I haven't tried mine since Saturday, but will let you know how it works out. BTW, which speakers are you getting? I picked out the Infinity Ref. 6000CS components. Dave

Will use Infinty 6002s. Their a 6.5 with built in tweeter. Decided I wanted to avoid the extra complexity of a cross-over. I'll post results.

please do post the results. i got the door panels off no problem. it was the drilling part where i came to a dead stop.

HEF - so how did you remove the panels? I've received jsafe's instructions but another description would be helpful.

[quote name='Cascade-LGT']HEF - so how did you remove the panels? I've received jsafe's instructions but another description would be helpful.[/quote] i did it just like him, except i used a small flat head screw driver to help with prying the door handle. the kind you use to tighten eye glass screws. i also used a regular flat head to pry the door panel off. but i could not get the drill to penetrate the metal on the door. i wasn't sure if you needed a special bit or something. and by that time, i was out of patience. this was after a 2 hour sub install.

Now what needs to be re-drilled? From looking at the tear-down-manual, the stock speakers have 3 screws holding them in. I am assuming you need the standard 4 screws equally placed. So do you need to redrill 4 new holes? Is there a kit to convert this without having to redrill? I would think there is a plate or something which would take care of this.

-HEF- Do you know if the stock Leg papers speakers (all 4) are identical to the stock WRX front speakers?

Thanks to jsafe and HEF. Doors panels actually do come off easily. Just from looking at things I would say 4 new holes will be required. (HEF - I'd just use a center punch and maybe a pilot hole before drilling final hole...and use sharp bits.) I'll need spacer rings (.5 to 1 inch) and will use some sort of damping material (Dynamat?) to ensure a good seal - door to spacer rings and maybe spacer rings to speakers. The speakers I'm using have a 2.25 mounting depth. Looks like I might have to grind some of the current speaker enclosure from the door panel. Any suggestions or critique? Thanks.

Cascade - Can you do us a favor and post pictures of what the stock speaker looks like in the door, and what the door looks like with the speaker removed? Thanks.

SC GT - Yes, but am awaiting delivery of speakers, so probably nothing till the weekend.

Cool. Good luck with the install.

Cascade - Any update on this speaker install? I'm about to attempt the same upgrade, and any input would be appreciated. Pics, of course, would move you to the "eternally grateful" category.

[size=2]ExRex-[/size] [size=2]Here's a string ([size=1][url="http://legacygt.com/viewtopic.php?t=2338"]http://legacygt.com/viewtopic.php?t=2338[/url])[/size] that has some photos. There are also several others which I relied upon to help me. Once you get the door panels off its pretty easy. You'll need some .5 inch spacers and a sharp drill bit. Let me know if I can help.[/size]

I took these about a month ago but never got around to posting them. Took apart the door to check out the speakers for a possible upgrade. Not too difficult, a lot of pointed "plugs" that push/snap into the metal of the door. One word of caution, DON'T try to remove the wood/alum plastic trim piece directly in front of the door handle. There are no screws or attachements behind this piece. Don't ask me how I know, I just do. The epoxy repair came out fairly well. :-)

 

The speakers are pretty low budget. The comparo speaker is a Boston Acoustics 767, 6.5" from my old car. I was going to do the switch but one of them had a cracked woofer surround, so need to get a new pair. This will really help the overall sound quality and bass response.

 

The sticking point to the door panel removal was a snap clip immediately behind the door handle. Remove the door handle screws, pop off the outer snaps and then do the middle one. I thought it was another screw, hence my fix of the trim piece.

Successful speaker install, thanks to you guys. Pictures and the tear down manual made it a breeze. Now I am safe to enjoy the sweet sounds of my upgraded system.

QTwo - How did you get the handle cover off? Where exactly is that snap clip? I've been trying but cannot get that thing off. Thanks for the pics btw. What do you have powering the BA speakers?

Gently pry of the cover using a flat tip screwdriver or similar device. I wrapped mine in paper towel to avoid scratches. This exposed the mounting bolt at the top. Un-bolt and pull down/twist the handle out of the metallic trim piece. The mystery snap is roughly in the same area as the handle. All of the other snaps had been popped and because of its location, I thought that there must have been another bolt holding the center of the panel. During the process of pulling the panel away to view where it was being held, the last snap popped. I didn't end up installing the BA's because of the problem with the woofer surround. Still have the Kenwood amps from my old car which are "only" 120W 2 channel, but they have very clean output. I wouldn't imagine the stock Subie head unit has outs so, I either need to upgrade the head or switchout the speakers only and use the stock power.