Rear adjustible Camber Arm aka "front link"

There has been some question in regards to adjusting camber in the rear of the new Legacy...well a part that I have had for 3 months but too lazy to install:

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v93/oister/subaru/03-18-06_1737.jpg

 

BeatRush/Laile adjustible arm that I have mentioned a few times on the forum already, which can be purchased thru AVO japan if you choose.

 

Here it shows which model the part can be used for...in case there is still doubts from other forum members:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v93/oister/subaru/03-18-06_1742.jpg

 

Gold bar...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v93/oister/subaru/03-18-06_1739.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v93/oister/subaru/03-18-06_1740.jpg

 

As you can see it is not spherical bearings in the end... I have out grown those kind of hard links, so this is a welcomed design. The bushing looks to be stiffer than the OEM ones, so it should be an improvement with overt harshness.

 

Here it is, pre-adjusting the rod to factory length before installation. Final adjustment to be done on alignment rack:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v93/oister/subaru/03-18-06_1743.jpg

 

Now I can dial all the rear camber as I see fit, should be a piece great for weekend racer. Like I said in other threads before, if you are a hardcore racer, just build your own by buying left hand/right hand threaded rod-ends and threaded rods. Raw cost to build your own should be ~200.

 

Oh yeah...I measured the weight. The adjustible rod is heavier by 6oz. Stock piece as you can see is just bent sheet metal in a C-channel, so I can't complain about the weight with the gain of stiffer arm and adjustibility.

i woould think you would need 4 of them. if u just put in one, wouldnt it only adjust camber if u adjusted the toe bolt also? i know in the front end camber affects toe

i woould think you would need 4 of them. if u just put in one, wouldnt it only adjust camber if u adjusted the toe bolt also? i know in the front end camber affects toe

 

You use the "front link" that I have above to adjust camber first, after that use the factory toe bolt to correct the toe. You are right that any change in suspension geometry will alter the toe (such as lowering, or camber). The front link, due to its location on the multi-link rear suspension set up on our cars, affect most drastically the camber settings. Whereas the "rear link" (attached to the toe adjustment bolt) affect toe setting the most, with almost no camber attributes.

 

Like all alignment...you dial in the caster and camber first, and you adjust the toe last. And then you go back and recheck camber/caster, make minor tweak, and then go back to toe to zero out again.

Wow that camber arm, the original and the adjustable looks so much like the one on my old Benz 260E that I bought online awhile back...

 

http://www.speedybenz.com

Wow that camber arm, the original and the adjustable looks so much like the one on my old Benz 260E that I bought online awhile back...

 

http://www.speedybenz.com

 

Yeah...there is really not much to adjustable arms... The speedybenz one is constructed exactly as I outlined above on a DIY unit: threaded rod, two rod ends, and steel inserts to take up the width of the mounting point. DIY cost about 200, and if you go high production, you can get volume discount on raw materials. With rod ends, you don't even need to worry about quality of the welds, since there is no welds.

now if sombody made an upper lateral link that would be complex. But it wouldent effect the toe.

yeah but the shock is mounted to the body. so short of adjsuting the body your stuck.

 

i must

it doesnt seem like much to adjust, but hey, it works. I havent ventured to this point yet, as I have been pretty happy the way the car is now.. I might just get them if I feel that the car is really pitching the rear end more so.. I'll need to drive the car harder to find out if I really do need them or not..

I asked one of the Japan parts suppliers about the availability of the Beatrush item and here's the reply I got:

"Unfortunately that lateral links is not available now.

Because it got some problem.

They said they would supply it again when problem is clear.

But they are not sure when problem will be clear.

So we could not supply it for you."

Another one said it was available for $270 +$25 shipping.

trs... i need one.

 

if u get the package, is it a set... left and right? can i dial out 2* or more of camber?

Similar ones from HKS Kansai are $291 + $28 shipping.

 

http://www.japanparts.com/images/ImageFromDB.php?base=1&no=579

trs... i need one.

 

if u get the package, is it a set... left and right? can i dial out 2* or more of camber?

 

Better be for a pair at these prices. Not knowing Japanese, it's pretty hard finding specs. Xenonk was loking for sources for these. He may have more info on them.

i was thinking of stoping buy fall line maybe next wed and see if they have any ideas. shouldnt be hard to make them

...After getting my brakes done by Xenonk , he made me aware of my wornout T1-S. I got new tires put on and the next day took it to a 4-wheel alignment. I got the front end nice and tight, but the rear right is still out of wack!

 

Front Camber (Specified Range: -0.8 to 0.3 degrees)

FL: 0.2 degrees FR:-0.2 degrees

 

Front Caster (Specified Range: 5.2 to 6.7 degrees)

FL: 6.3 degrees FR: 5.9 degrees

 

Front Cross Camber (Specified Range: -0.8 to 0.8 degrees)

Front: 0.4 degrees

Rear: 0.4 degrees

 

Total Toe (Specified Range: -0.17 to 0.17 degrees)

Front: 0.00 degrees

Rear: -0.03 degrees

 

Rear Camber (Specified Range: -1.4 to 0.1 degrees)

RL: -1.3 degrees RR: -1.6 degrees

 

Rear Toe (Specified Range: -0.08 to 0.08 degrees)

RL: 0.01 degrees RR: -0.04

 

Thrust Angle (Specified Range: -0.33 to 0.33 degrees)

Rear: 0.03 degrees

 

Do I need to get that adjustable camber rod for my rear?

Will my rear tires wear out faster on the inside?

or

I have nothing to worry about!

 

 

 

CRAZY KEN

As long as the toe is set properly, you can have as much as 3*(possibly more) of negative camber with no wear issues.

 

That being said, I would even out your front camber and I would also try to get the toe f/r as close to 0 (or even a hair negative) as possible

Perrin sells an adjustable lower control arm. Anyone tried them yet?

...After getting my brakes done by Xenonk , he made me aware of my wornout T1-S. I got new tires put on and the next day took it to a 4-wheel alignment. I got the front end nice and tight, but the rear right is still out of wack!

 

Front Camber (Specified Range: -0.8 to 0.3 degrees)

FL: 0.2 degrees FR:-0.2 degrees

 

Front Caster (Specified Range: 5.2 to 6.7 degrees)

FL: 6.3 degrees FR: 5.9 degrees

 

Front Cross Camber (Specified Range: -0.8 to 0.8 degrees)

Front: 0.4 degrees

Rear: 0.4 degrees

 

Total Toe (Specified Range: -0.17 to 0.17 degrees)

Front: 0.00 degrees

Rear: -0.03 degrees

 

Rear Camber (Specified Range: -1.4 to 0.1 degrees)

RL: -1.3 degrees RR: -1.6 degrees

 

Rear Toe (Specified Range: -0.08 to 0.08 degrees)

RL: 0.01 degrees RR: -0.04

 

Thrust Angle (Specified Range: -0.33 to 0.33 degrees)

Rear: 0.03 degrees

 

Do I need to get that adjustable camber rod for my rear?

Will my rear tires wear out faster on the inside?

or

I have nothing to worry about!

 

 

 

CRAZY KEN

 

i don't have my recent alignment specs handy, and I'm no expert, but I would have thought you might want a little more front camber and more even camber all around. I cdn't get that much rear camber on my car - gotta look up the specs tonight.

So what is the ideal alignment spec.?

 

CRAZY KEN

So what is the ideal alignment spec.?

 

CRAZY KEN

 

For an aggressively driven street car, I like 1-1.5* of negative camber and 0 toe up front. For the rear .75-1* of negative camber and the tinest bit of toe-in (0.02-0.04*). If you have the ability to add caster, I like something in the range of 7*.