Dyno results from my build

Hey guys.

 

I know a lot of you been following my build. I really appriciate everyone's support and advice all through out !!

 

We only made 285 whp and 320tq at 17psi.

 

 

We made bigger numbers (290whp, 350tq) but started to get knock. The tuner said considering my injector duty was only at 85% it was the winter gas and potentially the stock heat range plugs that held me back today. I'll definitely be going back for a retune with summer gas.

 

I guess 360ish horse at the crank isn't too bad.

 

The car pulls really hard and very smooth, and it definitely is way stronger in the mid range with the cams, so I'm very happy with how it feels, just not happy with the numbers.

 

I'm wondering if my torque numbers are a bit low due to the STi exhaust cams and the stock turbo combo?

 

 

Tune was done at Definitive Tuning in New Market Ontario, Canada. Highly recommended. Justin was very informative, knowledgeable and welcoming . The car feels incredible. Very smooth power, pulls very hard and the driveability is better than it was stock.

 

 

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Nice, if you have a chance I would love to see a virtual dyno pull just for comparison sake. But your numbers are pretty solid for a mild build with the stock turbo.

 

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What rpm do you get full boost?

Those numbers look pretty strong to me on pump gas with a stock turbo.

What rpm do you get full boost?

I'm actually pretty surprised at how well the stock turbo held boost. I expected a spike and decline pretty drastically but it held better than expected.

 

(I cut the picture as there was a bunch of useless info and graphs above it ei: other test runs)

 

The solid yellow line was from my final pull.

 

Close to max boost at 3k around 16psi and holds well where it looks like we hit 17.5psi (My gauge says 17) at 4750 until just past 5000 rpm.

 

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Those numbers look pretty strong to me on pump gas with a stock turbo.

Thanks Shadow. You are easing my anxiety about the numbers. I should be happy with them considering it was done on crap gas. Overall I love how the car feels, and the tune is safe, not on the ragged edge.

 

At least when I retune in the summer I'll now have a tune for our crap Canadian winter gas and one for summer gas.

 

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Nice, if you have a chance I would love to see a virtual dyno pull just for comparison sake. But your numbers are pretty solid for a mild build with the stock turbo.

 

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Thanks FLlegacy. I appreciate it.

 

I'll try and run on the Virtual Dyno. It should be in my V2 AP eh?

 

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definitely solid #s for stock turbo on 93oct. For comparison, my tune spit out 266whp/327wtq on the dyno

definitely solid #s for stock turbo on 93oct. For comparison, my tune spit out 266whp/327wtq on the dyno

Thanks buddy. Yours was a stage 1 tune correct ?

 

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Virtual dyno is a freeware you load your log into. I don't recall where I downloaded it from.

Thanks buddy. Yours was a stage 1 tune correct ?

 

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yup stage 1 no engine mods

yup stage 1 no engine mods

Considering my mods You're not helping my anxiety with my numbers haha.

 

I just have to keep reminding myself that I'll make better numbers with good gas in the summer.

 

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and also that unless we're on the same dyno, the numbers arent exactly comparable

Considering my mods You're not helping my anxiety with my numbers haha.

 

I just have to keep reminding myself that I'll make better numbers with good gas in the summer.

 

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It's been documented that stage 2 jump isn't big like the stage 1 tune increase. Your cam upgrade should benefit a larger hybrid turbo getting spooled up and E85 is the business from what I've seen.

Getting hung up on the numbers from one dyno to another is a losing proposition. As long as your ride is putting a smile on your face, numbers be damned.

I am not big into dyno numbers.

 

I would imagine you have a much broader power band and more power at higher RPM with your mods than those of use on stage 1 tunes.

Nice info. NB, best to just stick all the info in one build thread though (excitement gets the better of anyone doing his/her dyno tune I guess).

 

Few quick questions to ask the tuner:

What kind of corrections, drivetrain loss approximation and smoothing did Definitive use?

Which gear were the pulls done in?

 

Dynopacks natively produce at-hub numbers which are close but not exactly equivalent to bhp/btq. Dyno software that pairs with this hardware can be configured to plot estimated brake, crank/engine or wheel hp/tq but its not clear its doing that here.

 

Surprising they seem OK with Injector DCs in the 80-90% range...

ideally youd want to stay south of 75% on a PI EJ25 with stock injectors and turbo.

Nice info. NB, best to just stick all the info in one build thread though (excitement gets the better of anyone doing his/her dyno tune I guess).

 

Few quick questions to ask the tuner:

What kind of corrections, drivetrain loss approximation and smoothing did Definitive use?

Which gear were the pulls done in?

 

Dynopacks natively produce at-hub numbers which are close but not exactly equivalent to bhp/btq. Dyno software that pairs with this hardware can be configured to plot estimated brake, crank/engine or wheel hp/tq but its not clear its doing that here.

 

Surprising they seem OK with Injector DCs in the 80-90% range...

ideally youd want to stay south of 75% on a PI EJ25 with stock injectors and turbo.

 

I'll be adding this info to my build thread. I wanted eyes on it so I posting a new thread. Excitement didn't get the best of me.

 

Dynapack are calibrated for the load of each car. From what I understand he pretty types in "2011 Subaru Legacy GT" and the electromagnets set the load accordingly .

 

As for drivetrain loss, I'm not sure I understand the question. The dyno is measuring the power at the hub, not calculating the power at the engine and figuring out the power from there.

 

For smoothing, that only adjust how clear the line is, eliminating tiny fluctuations. I could find out the setting but it won't change that his power curves are very consistent . I can say when it knocked you could see it in the graph. So his anything setting wasn't cranked up.

 

The pulls were made in 4th gear.

 

The shop advised that was my wheel (hub) horse power and tq. I would be pretty upset if that's all I was making at the crank.

 

Just curious . Why can't you run the IDC at 85%? Is it not safe ?

 

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One of the pull videos

http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5a4d983dd38d8/20180102_151832.mp4

 

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Most of us are stuck with 3rd gear pulls, since 100+mph on public streets is really frowned upon. 3rd just touches 100ish around 6500 rpm if memory serves.

 

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Most of us are stuck with 3rd gear pulls, since 100+mph on public streets is really frowned upon. 3rd just touches 100ish around 6500 rpm if memory serves.

 

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Are you referring to when I do the Virtual dyno ? I will be using 3rd for the Virtual pull. I'll do that this weekend. I just bought a Wi-Fi ob2 transmitter. So I'll do a pull and log it on my phone with the Virtual dyno.

 

My pulls on the actual dyno were made in 4th.

 

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Thanks for the replies, I used to setup and sell 4WD/AWD inertia-based load-bearing dynos many many years ago hence the questions.

 

At he hubs torque that this dyno measures directly is not wtq and also not exactly (but fairly close to) btq. But symantics dont really matter so long as you have a baseline or a set of benchmarks to compare to to get a sense of your gains. The dyno can read 100 or 350 for the same car, depending on how its configured and what its reading or set to plot.. all that matters is the net gain (delta) from whatever baseline. So say bone stock your car makes peak 250, with an avg of 245 in 4th gear on these hub spinners... and post tune 300, with an avg of 275. Thats a peak gain of 50 (hopefully at the same or similar RPM) and an even more important avg gain of 30... ideally in the DD useable RPM range.

 

With the baseline numbers it doesnt matter if they are accurate or not, comperable to other LGTs or not, you just see a clear 20% peak and 12% avg gain.

 

Drivetrain losses are very much still there even with the dynopacks bolted directly to the hub. By drivetrain I mean whatever comes between your cranshaft output and the hub, wheel, tire to dyno interface.

In your case flywheel, 6MT, driveshaft and diffs.

 

The gear the pulls are done in matters to because of transmission gear ratios and final drive. Optimally you want to do any/all pulls in a gear closest to 1:1 ratio to avoid having to apply or having the dyno software typically incorrectly apply more adjustments.

 

Going back to drivetrain losses, Dynapacks software likely applies some conversion factor to produce adjusted numbers at the wheels (hopefully it assumes say a 17-18% linear drivetrain loss, which would be an ultra crude approximation but should be close enough).

 

Ask the vendor tuners or some Stage 2, 3+ guys on here what IDCs they are seeing or target under WOT and toward redline. Typically you dont want to reach high IDCs or WGDCs on these cars for a number pf common reasons.

Thanks for the replies, I used to setup and sell 4WD/AWD inertia-based load-bearing dynos many many years ago hence the questions.

 

At he hubs torque that this dyno measures directly is not wtq and also not exactly (but fairly close to) btq. But symantics dont really matter so long as you have a baseline or a set of benchmarks to compare to to get a sense of your gains. The dyno can read 100 or 350 for the same car, depending on how its configured and what its reading or set to plot.. all that matters is the net gain (delta) from whatever baseline. So say bone stock your car makes peak 250, with an avg of 245 in 4th gear on these hub spinners... and post tune 300, with an avg of 275. Thats a peak gain of 50 (hopefully at the same or similar RPM) and an even more important avg gain of 30... ideally in the DD useable RPM range.

 

With the baseline numbers it doesnt matter if they are accurate or not, comperable to other LGTs or not, you just see a clear 20% peak and 12% avg gain.

 

Drivetrain losses are very much still there even with the dynopacks bolted directly to the hub. By drivetrain I mean whatever comes between your cranshaft output and the hub, wheel, tire to dyno interface.

In your case flywheel, 6MT, driveshaft and diffs.

 

The gear the pulls are done in matters to because of transmission gear ratios and final drive. Optimally you want to do any/all pulls in a gear closest to 1:1 ratio to avoid having to apply or having the dyno software typically incorrectly apply more adjustments.

 

Going back to drivetrain losses, Dynapacks software likely applies some conversion factor to produce adjusted numbers at the wheels (hopefully it assumes say a 17-18% linear drivetrain loss, which would be an ultra crude approximation but should be close enough).

 

Ask the vendor tuners or some Stage 2, 3+ guys on here what IDCs they are seeing or target under WOT and toward redline. Typically you dont want to reach high IDCs or WGDCs on these cars for a number pf common reasons.

 

That's a lot of info. Thanks !

 

I have a 3rd gear data log from yesterday if that uncovers any info that may be useful?

 

 

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Update: Looking at my data log from yesterday I'm only hitting 14psi. My tuner wants me back in for a retune tomorrow .

 

He advised that the route cause for this is the base map from COBB has a torque limiter that is dependant on intake air temp , which is unique to our platform. That's why my boost numbers are so low compared to the target boost number set at 18.

 

More to come !!

 

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If the tune was calling for a lower boost though the target would be 14 not 18...wouldn't it?

If the tune was calling for a lower boost though the target would be 14 not 18...wouldn't it?

 

The target would normally be 18, but the iat temperature correction lowers the target and actual. At least that's how I understand it to work.