Thinking about getting an 8" sub in the stock location

The normal sub is just too crappy for me, and I'm sure I want to put a big heavy box in my trunk again. (Thinking about a 10 or 12" infinity kappa perfect DVC in a sealed box)

 

Looked in my car today, and looks like they just sealed up this whole a small plate. However I don't want to hack up my rear deck until I know it's going have decent sound.

 

So how does the McIntosh sub sound? Anyone know the specs? I'd want at least the grill. I'll be happy as long I get decent bass down to about 16-20Hz. Don't need to rattle the neighborhood. (Too bad infinity doesn't make a 8" sub)

Let us know what brand you go with on the sub. I'm interested to see what kind of free air is available for that fit and what kind of effort would need to be made to open up the rear deck. The only kind of "free air" spec subs I am familiar with are Kickers. They worked well in a '77 Gran Prix I used to own but not as well as other models in sealed enclosures. Any brands in mind that you are considering?

JL makes a 8" W7. This has been discussed before though, it might not work as an open-air sub.

Anyone in Oz with the McIntosh System on the forum? I wonder if it is sealed in any way. Or if not, might it be imported... Otherwise, if you want a sub to match your steering wheel and shift knob.... Polk/Momo has a couple of 8" subs. Momo branded, or DB series, single or dual voice coil (DVC) which might work. I wonder how difficult it would be to 'glass in around the sub, along the bulkhead beam, to include the appropriate air volume to make it sound really nice. there are DB series or MOMO components, which look nice, too. Anybody know how Polk Audio drivers perform and sound in comparison to high-range infinitys or Boston Acoustics drivers?

[quote name='IwannaSportSedan']Anyone in Oz with the McIntosh System on the forum? I wonder if it is sealed in any way. Or if not, might it be imported... Otherwise, if you want a sub to match your steering wheel and shift knob.... Polk/Momo has a couple of 8" subs. Momo branded, or DB series, single or dual voice coil (DVC) which might work. I wonder how difficult it would be to 'glass in around the sub, along the bulkhead beam, to include the appropriate air volume to make it sound really nice. there are DB series or MOMO components, which look nice, too. Anybody know how Polk Audio drivers perform and sound in comparison to high-range infinitys or Boston Acoustics drivers?[/quote] There are a few here and there.. JDM people too. I hope some reply with pics, etc :) As far as I can tell it's not sealed. Supposedly McIntosh "improved" the trunk enclosure and the rest of the car with sound proofing. Also you can see from that pic the parts were designed to hold a sub there (including the trunk springs), but really no room for a box.

Sounds like a free-air sub. Are there any 8" free air subs on the market? didn't Advent used to make one? I don't think they market autosound products anymore. A free-air sub and some super-dynamat, it might work...

[quote name='brady_bunch']Let us know what brand you go with on the sub. I'm interested to see what kind of free air is available for that fit and what kind of effort would need to be made to open up the rear deck. The only kind of "free air" spec subs I am familiar with are Kickers. They worked well in a '77 Gran Prix I used to own but not as well as other models in sealed enclosures. Any brands in mind that you are considering?[/quote] Whatever I can get. My biggest problem is I don't remember my acoustics, was it high Q or low Q that was best suited for free-air? I know power handling will go down because excursion will go up, so I'm guessing high Q, but how high? *shrug*. Really though, it's more like a sloppy/leaky 11.4 cu ft box.. It seems a lot of stock subs seem to do it however. (although the one I heard in the last gen maxima you could barely call a sub, more like a farting waffle)

You know, if you have difficulty finding 8" free-air, you can always try a 10". The size of the hole in the deck doesn't need to match, as long as you mount it and seal the edges, the 10" will still work through the 8" hole.

[quote name='CombatCQB']You know, if you have difficulty finding 8" free-air, you can always try a 10". The size of the hole in the deck doesn't need to match, as long as you mount it and seal the edges, the 10" will still work through the 8" hole.[/quote] I was thinking that.. but how to seal the edges? I think bottom mounting would be neatest. (I want to keep a stock look). I don't suppose there are adapters for this sort of thing. Actually I did notice on some (JL) of the subs that you can't bottom mount them because the foam surround goes over the edge! I suppose they have threaded holes on the backside for some bolts. I'm wondering how I'd fit a grill over that anyway.. If it's possible infinity has some subs that work in a free-air configuration, actually variable Q! expensive though.. Looks like I answered my own questions.. high q for free-air/infinite baffle. I really do like inifinity's website :)

Is there a Macintosh option for the wagon? If there is a sub where do they put it? Tom

[quote name='WRXTom']Is there a Macintosh option for the wagon? If there is a sub where do they put it? Tom[/quote] Rear quarter, right hand side as I saw the Outback LL Bean edition in japan :) Oh, and that interior is really nice :)

I have an OZ Liberty GT Limited. The sub is not sealed. I have taken photos of all speakers (sorry Deer Killer, I have been slack!) and will upload them tonight cause I left my digital camera USB connector at home. Cheers, Matt

i promise you that if you drop that 8" JL in there, and crank the amp up, it will kick like thunder, especially because it is bolted right to the frame.

*deleted*

[url]www.dls.se/english/speakers/subwoofersclassic.htm[/url]

[quote name='-HEF-']i promise you that if you drop that 8" JL in there, and crank the amp up, it will kick like thunder, especially because it is bolted right to the frame.[/quote] It better for a $400 sub :) It's not really 8" though, it's oversized. Must be top mounted, with no apparent way to mount a grill. Whatever I put there *MUST* get a classy-look grill on top (read: doesn't look like a giant aftermarket speaker) 8w7 is the only one suitable for free-air use BTW.. It's also more expensive because I have to buy a 2-ohm stable amp to use it... I already have a 4x85 or 2x170 amp. Should work nicely with a DVC. I was thinking the polk 8" DVC's are a good fit. I don't think they explicitly say for free-air use, but with a Qts of above .6 (If I remember correctly) It should be good. Unfortunately the Tweeter reps thought it wise to ignore me and go for the guys with kids in the store (like they actually have money..), so I couldn't actually confirm it with anyone who supposedly knows.. I'd still like to see if I can get an infinity perfect 10" in there, if anybody has any suggestions on how to get a clean bottom-mount fit.

Question, how did you double post after my post?

[quote name='Drift Monkey']www.dls.se/english/speakers/subwoofersclassic.htm[/quote] hmm paper.. and "open air" starts at 10 inches.. :( If we could only find out what brand the McIntosh uses.. I don't think they make one in that form, at least not one you can get as the buying public.

[quote name='Drift Monkey']Question, how did you double post after my post?[/quote] No idea... It might have to do with the fact that I have two taskbars at 20 programs open at anyone time, but I don't remember doing that.

I'm sure you can fab an adapter with some particle board. The top mount one will be harder to make fit, but possible.

Well I've been searching for drivers that claim "free-air" use and 8", mostly it's crap. Kick comp, mtx thunder 4500 (can't even find it on their website). RF punch series 1. Power handling is in the 75-100 Watt range.

Those subs all sound like local rice-shop specials. I wonder how difficult it would be to fiberglass in a custom enclosure around the mounting ring, clearing the torsion-rods, and following along the bulkhead beam. It would have to be pretty-much formed in place, or mocked up with blueboard, and glassed over that. Some of these subs say they need only fractions of a cubic foot. If the McIntosh sub is top mount, and the opening is wider than 8", could a 10" free-air sub be mounted there, perhaps with a very slight "riser" ring, to get the basket to clear the hole? Should we be looking for a metric sized sub? 10 inches would be ~25.4cm. Perhaps it is a 23-24cm sub? I know that a car isn't the best audio environment, but I like good sound, and I listen to music mostly on my commute to and from work... Even though I am not gettting a Subie soon, I am interested in learning how to get components to fit in close quarters, without giving up large amounts of trunk space.

Especially for Deer Killer! Here are some photos of my Macintosh stereo speaker postions. [url]http://users.chariot.net.au/~mtarone/Liberty/LibertyGT%20007.jpg[/url] [url]http://users.chariot.net.au/~mtarone/Liberty/LibertyGT%20008.jpg[/url] [url]http://users.chariot.net.au/~mtarone/Liberty/LibertyGT%20009.jpg[/url] I will take a photo of the subwoofer when my digital camera battery recharges in an hour or so :-) Cheers, Matt

If anyone wants other photos of the speakers, let me know!

I wonder if a small sub would fit in one of the covered storage bins in the back of the wagon? Tom