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So slow, needs boost.


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I can't get over how slow this Legacy L is. I know it is a wagon and the engine does have 244,000 miles on it but my 200 hp Escort doesn't struggle to climb hills as much as this Legacy does and that is when I'm towing a 2800 pound load behind the Escort.

 

I have to do something to make this car faster. It has to downshift to maintain 70 mph on slight hills. The engine runs quiet, has no trouble starting at all, and doesn't knock so I just can't believe it is that worn out and down on power, thought I still intend to do a compression test.

 

I've been thinking of a small turbo set-up, nothing that will make it a drag monster, just something that will improve low-end torque. It does shift at 6100 rpm so that isn't helping (I know about the power mod but don't want to use that on the highway) so a small turbo would work great in the operating range of this engine.

 

I've been kicking around some ideas to do this for under $1000. I've already got a FMIC and some pipes I can use. I have a T3 (super 60) that I can use but I'll probably sell or trade for something smaller. I have a welder so I can make my own exhaust pipes. The only things I'm concerned about are fuel and timing. I don't know how much the fuel pump is rated for, how much the injectors are rated for, and how I can pull timing without having to spend $600 on a MSD box. I already have a MSD box, but I was saving it for my 400 hp Escort build. I've thought of adding a 5th fuel injector but I'm concerned a backfire would result in unintended roasting of my nuts.

 

I've got the EJ22 engine with the 4EAT tranny (how much torque can that handle) and only plan to make 180 hp at the crank. That would be about a 35% increase so I would hope Subaru built these cars to take that. Advice is welcome, particularly from those that have boosted the 2nd gen EF22 with 4EAT.

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It's possible to boost your EJ22E 5psi with no additional engine management. Haven't done it myself but there are plenty of threads on RS25 and NASIOC (in fact there is a specific forum on NASIOC for na engines with bolt on fi).

 

No need for a fmic for that level of boost, but for a tmic you'd need a scooped hood or cut a hole in yours and install a wrx scoop or something. That being said you could probably get away with no intercooler if you use a VF11 and even a TDO4 under low boost. The 90-94 tleggys w/vf11 did not come with tmic and run 8.7 psi stock.

 

One thing to keep in mind is depending on what year your 22e is is compression. Phase 2 have high compression (up to 10:1 iirc) so detonation is a real possibility. Also your engine is old and I'd be concerned about possible hg issues.

 

You will need a notched crossmember for the up pipe to clear. A direct fit is a xmember from a 90-94 tleggy but you have welding skills so you could notch yours and reinforce it. You will also need a downpipe. Stock injectors will be able to handle your fueling needs. Also you will need to tap your heads for oil and coolant to run the turbo.

 

Stock fuel pump will work but maybe yours is old. If you replace it I recommend a Walbro 255. A complete pump and kit is only $100 from Amazon.

 

Of course there is more to it but that's the jist of it and I have to go to work, lol.

 

Check your vacuum lines, plugs, pcv valve, fuel filter, wires, clean the tb to see if you can get your car running better before you go and do something crazy! :lol:

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I did a tune-up when I bought the car a few weeks ago with a new fuel filter, new plugs, new plug wires, new PCV, and a new air filter. It is still painfully slow. It a 1997 model years, not sure if that makes it phase 2 or not. I'm running 8-10 psi on my ZX2 with 9.6:1 compression without detonation but I'm only running a max of 16* of timing advance. I'll hook my scanner up to see what advance the Subaru is running, probably more than 16*.

 

I wouldn't feel comfortable not using an intercooler, even at 6 psi. At 8-10 psi (depends on what mood my wastegate is in) I can tell a difference in charge temperature by just touching the inlet and outlet pipe at the intercooler. I may just get a side mount from a DSM and run that in the fender well.

 

A VJ11 would be perfect for this project but I think the TE04 (I think that is what came on the GST) would work great as well.

 

I'll take a look at those threads on NASIOC.

 

Thank you for the reply.

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Port & polish some 25D heads on the intake side, put them on your 22E block, run a 22T turbo w/intercooler (long WRX one from 06 is best) @ 6-7psi, upgraded fuel pump, & you're looking at about 160awhp/195awtq untuned. That's just to start. 25D heads on a 22E will drop your compression ratio to about 8.7:1 if you use stock head gasket thickness but on custom head gaskets.
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A PnP would be nice but that would blow my $1000 budget.

 

Custom head gaskets sound pricey as well. Are OEM head gaskets really that bad? Is this not a closed deck engine?

 

You could do the PnP yourself if you learned how, keep the cost way down.

Custom head gaskets aren't as expensive as you think. My gaskets were about 90 a gasket & they were 3 layered MLS with a thick piece in the middle.

22Es are not closed deck engines but as monkeyposeur said, that does not matter. The pistons will be a problem long before the block is ever damaged.

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EM would only raise the cost of this project. I don't see a problem with running a thicker head gasket to lower the compression ratio and I'm sure I could polish the inlet/outlet of the head without an issue but if I screw up the PnP, I would have more money in it. I'm not sure I have the patience for that anyway.

 

I could also do surgery myself, if I learned how. But, I'm sure I would suck at that too.

 

If the engine takes a dump, I can get one from the pull-a-part for $300 or less. I thought the same thing about the Escort when I put the turbo on the stock engine at 160,000 miles. It now has 240,000 miles on it with a base-tune sent to me via email. I realize that is EM, but the stock injectors were maxed out with just some bolt-on's so I had no option.

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EM would only raise the cost of this project.

initially, yeah..

 

If the engine takes a dump, I can get one from the pull-a-part for $300 or less.

 

but... dropping the $300 on EM initially would save you the time and money that comes from having to go through all the trouble of pulling and replacing the motor

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