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Reload this Page Well I just wasted my time on this block!
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#1: 02-25-2013, 05:34 PM
Well I just wasted my time on this block!
 
 jp71ss
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I cleaned it and got it bored, putting the last piston in and I find a crack! I don't know if it was cracked before it was bored but it is definitely cracked now! Anybody ever sleeve a EJ25 block?
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#2: 02-25-2013, 08:11 PM
 
 jp71ss
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I just realized that this is the same cylinder that had no compression. Duh! Well I didn't see the crack before. I guess I will have to get it sleeved now. Back to the drawing board.
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#3: 02-25-2013, 08:12 PM
 
 BAC5.2
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Are you aware of the cost associated with sleeving a block properly?

It'd cost you less to buy a new 257 shortblock.
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#4: 02-25-2013, 08:12 PM
 
 Tr00b
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Wat? You didn't magnaflux it?

Sad day.
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#5: 02-25-2013, 08:29 PM
 
 jp71ss
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We don't have any shops close by that can magnaflux. We are out in the stix!
Enlighten me on the cost of sleeving this block and the cost of a new shortblock. What would the compression be on a new ej257 shortblock?
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#6: 02-25-2013, 08:34 PM
 
 BAC5.2
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What car is this for?

I assume you are going for big power with a sleeved build? Typical sleeve installs are ~$3000+ if done correctly.
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#7: 02-25-2013, 08:41 PM
 
 jp71ss
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97 gt wagon. No turbo.
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#8: 02-25-2013, 08:56 PM
 
 BAC5.2
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Sleeving would kind of be a waste then, huh?
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#9: 02-25-2013, 09:22 PM
 
 mwiener2
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Ya. But should you decide to, look into Benson.
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#10: 02-25-2013, 09:35 PM
 
 spooln30
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I don't understand why anyone who is in the process of rebuilding an engine and already had the block at a machine shop wouldn't take the extra step to see if there are any cracks. Knowing you had low to no compression in one cylinder it's a must. Everybody makes mistakes some just cost more then others.
Far as sleeping the block its not worth it, the cost isn't cheap and the blocks are easily available. GL.
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#11: 02-26-2013, 12:22 AM
 
 DOHCEJ22E1
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251 or 253 engine at a junk yard will solve your issues.
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#12: 02-26-2013, 05:28 AM
 
 jp71ss
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We didn't see any cracks and the shops around here don't have magnaflux capabilities. We are not a big city with unlimited resources. I found the crack after I finished cleaning it. Hindsight is 20/20 and I understand what you say but it didn't show up till after the bore and final cleaning. If we had the shops here that we used to have before everything went away I could have gotten it magnafluxed.

A waste to sleeve one cylinder in a block? Since it is not a high horsepower build I will find out the cost today and see if it is worth it. If not I might sell the whole project.

Will a 251 or 253 be a direct bolt up with sensors and everything?

Thanks for the thoughts.
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#13: 02-26-2013, 05:30 AM
 
 jp71ss
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Where is the thrust bearing in a 257 block?
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#14: 02-26-2013, 05:51 AM
 
 BAC5.2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jp71ss View Post
We didn't see any cracks and the shops around here don't have magnaflux capabilities. We are not a big city with unlimited resources. I found the crack after I finished cleaning it. Hindsight is 20/20 and I understand what you say but it didn't show up till after the bore and final cleaning. If we had the shops here that we used to have before everything went away I could have gotten it magnafluxed.

A waste to sleeve one cylinder in a block? Since it is not a high horsepower build I will find out the cost today and see if it is worth it. If not I might sell the whole project.

Will a 251 or 253 be a direct bolt up with sensors and everything?

Thanks for the thoughts.
You can't sleeve just one cylinder.

But if you could, it is unlikely your town has anyone capable of correctly installing a dry sleeve. It would turn you current $200 error into a several thousand dollar one.
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#15: 02-26-2013, 07:04 AM
 
 DOHCEJ22E1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jp71ss View Post
Will a 251 or 253 be a direct bolt up with sensors and everything?

Thanks for the thoughts.
No, it won't be compatible but I reckon that would be the only way to obtain a 251-253 block, which will be.
All you would have to do is swap your heads, sensors, & crankshaft gear/sprocket over, start up, & keep it moving.

For the 251-253-257, the thrust bearings are on #5 instead of #3.
If it has a 5th digit letter, it's Phase 1 & Phase 2 engines have 5th digit numbers.
For example, EJ25D is phase 1 while EJ251 is phase 2.
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