My recent MS install has stirred up some questions and interest and since im fresh from being completely ems retarted and just went though the "about to buy,build,install, and tune my first EMS" I feel I can really help explain this to the next guys.
IF your the diy type person here, read it yourself
, otherwise I'll pull out the important stuff for you..
----WHAT IS A MEGA SQUIRT? no its not something dirty or an adult product. The MegaSquirt line of Engine Management Systems are Do It Yourself (DIY) systems capable of full standalone engine management at a fraction of the cost of the what the 'big dogs' charge. They were designed with education and performance in mind, so that the do it yourselfer could learn the in's and out's of engine management and tuning, while learning a good bit about electronics in the process if you choose to build the unit yourself. What you end up with is an incredibly performing EMS that you built yourself for ultimate bragging rights when you leave your buddies behind as a speck in your rearview mirror. And you did this for a quarter to a tenth of the cost of a 'big name' retail standalone ECU.
Building and installing a MegaSquirt EMS will require that you do some homework. Some of the questions and answers below will help to guide you on where to start this and how to go about it. You will learn a lot in the process and if you so choose you will come out of it with the knowledge to properly tune your car for the current configuration you have now, and for any future power combo you can dream up and implement. There is no limit to what you can do or to how much power you can make with this engine management system.
----What Do you need to do to have one in your car?
First, you gotta figure out what you want from your EMS(engine management system).
Do you just want a stock like ecu with no add ons? just something you can tweak and tune?, for power or mpg? something for a full blown car with more money in the motor then the car?
These are all very important questions. my route was stock fuction to begin with and the room to expand later after i got tuning down and then install the built motor with the turbo and all that jazz were i would add built in boost control.
So im going to run you though my exspearience. At first i didnt know were to begin so i read, i read, read some more, went and stared at my car, read some more.
Some key things to learn now and remember are these
there are whats called MS1, MS2, and MS2 (im useing ms2)
What makes a MS 1 2 or 3 is the processo?r
I have a MS2 processor, the processor is something you dont and cant assemble, MS1 is a 40 pin IC, simple, the MS2 is more a chip with 40 pins that plug into the main board the same way as MS1, MS3 is where things step up a bit to an area i have not even read into. and frankly is more for engines with more cylinders, like 8 plus.
now i metioned boards? what are boards! well its like the mother board of the EMS, its what the main 37 pin connector plugs into and same with the serial port, i have a 3.0 board because it provides the most function while still haveing room to expand with hardware mods
What is the difference between the MegaSquirt PCB 2.2 / PCB 3.0 / PCB 3.57?
They are all three able to use the MegaSquirt-I CPU as well as the MegaSquirt-II and MegaSquirt-III daughterboards, but they are based on different versions of the circuit board and as such there are different features . You can click on any of the headings below to view an example of the product with pictures.
The v2.2 board dates back several years, it's the least expensive of the currently available options, and the least developed. It's a great low budget solution that has served many people well (and continues to).
The v3.0 board has a lot of improvements made to it to reduce electrical noise and increase robustness (damage resistant), as well as make the board easier to expand. All of the improvements with the V3.0 board are listed here.
The main high level differences are that the uprated flyback circuitry is included so you can run low or high impedance injectors, there are several improvements to make the board more robust and harder to damage in the event of a mis-wire or overload event. A prototyping area was adding to the PCB, and several changes were made to prepare the board for the MegaSquirt-II and MegaSquirt-III Daughterboards.
The v3.57 board's major claim to fame is it's 'surface mount (SMT)' design. Otherwise it is almost identical to the v3.0 board and the above information on the v3.0 board fully applies. The only other major differences are:
A) the addition of a PWM capable idle control transistor allowing control of a PWM idle valve or a standard on/off type FIDLE valve without need for modification. This was a common modification applied to the v3.0 board and is no longer needed on the v3.57.
B) the addition of a DB15 connector next to the DB9. By default this doesn't do anything, but is there to allow for extra I/O for modifications. It takes the place of the externally viewable LEDs, which are now internally surface mounted on the PCB.
C) Several signal pads have been added making common modifications easier.
D) The prototype area was sacrificed (removed) to make all of the above possible.
In general, if you're looking for the cheapest option possible, the PCBv2.2 makes sense. Chances are you'll mate an MS1 processor with it in this case, such as with the MegaSquirt-I kits and assembled units. Otherwise, if the small difference in price is worth it to you to go with a tougher and more featured board that was built with expansion in mind, the v3.0 or v3.57 boards make more sense. they offer MegaSquirt I's, II's, and III's using these two boards. Some prefer the thru hole v3.0, and some prefer the v3.57. See the above to decide your preference between the two.