Consistant trouble with my E-tune

Some of you might remember me posting about this a while back.

I got my Infamous tune about 4 months ago. i did 5 revisions, and the car has been running really well with the new map. Tons of friggin fun. Car burns less oil than it did before, the studder was eliminated, plenty more good things. Hands down its the way the car should feel and perform out of the factory.

After the first 2 weeks of my final revision, i was driving back from Jay Peak VT, and the car seemed to have reverted back to the stock map just out of the blue. At WOT, it went from hitting 18-19 psi, to just 9 psi. No CELs, no noises, smells, or any indications the car was running any differently besides boost and it being considerably slower. I think it may have happenedyMany of you suggested it could be a vacuum leak so I checked all the lines, the connections were solid and there were no leaks. Some said bad gas, but that wouldn't drop the pressure in half.

When I got back home, i brought the Tactrix and the laptop back to my car and reflashed the most recent revision. The car was then running the normal stage 2 again.

I havent talked to Shamar about it yet, but Mike said that something most have happened in order for the car to revert back like that. I'm just not sure what the hell that could be.

I would be happy to log for you guys after work tomorrow if you think that would help.

Thanks

You need to bring your laptop with you wherever you go in your tuner car as a precaution.
You need to do LV more fequently to monitor your car.
99% all you had to do was run LV and reset the computer.

I don't know anything about e-tunes, but I know that Cobb offered such a thing as base maps and real-time maps if I remember correctly. Base maps were a permanent write to the ECU, even through ECU resets, whereas real-time maps loaded only into memory and would revert if the ECU was reset (power loss from battery included). Maybe the e-tune is like a real-time map? Hope this helps.

Originally Posted by LosAngelesLGT

You need to bring your laptop with you wherever you go in your tuner car as a precaution.
You need to do LV more fequently to monitor your car.
99% all you had to do was run LV and reset the computer.

ok, i think i understand u. not sure about the last sentence. so this isnt uncommon or do you think the ecu is reading ridiculous knock and is doing this to protect itself?

thanks max

Originally Posted by paintpollz

ok, i think i understand u. not sure about the last sentence. so this isnt uncommon or do you think the ecu is reading ridiculous knock and is doing this to protect itself?

It possible. I did not know the knock sensor was going out and not throwing an engine code and I took my neighbor for a ride to scare him. I got on boost and it was like hitting a brick wall after a pull or two when the car got "knock". No boost, pulled timing. Babied it home, pulled a LV (felt like an IDIOT for romping on it without my laptop - of course I would have a problem the one time I did not have it)... Was all over place... Started to diagnose... It was incredibly frustrating to diagnose for me and ended up at the shop. Clearing the code definately did not fix it

I am not saying you are having my problem, just giving an example of why I like to LV regularly. Its safe and easy to pull a LV. You can just go out to your car and pull one without going anywhere. Its easy to reset too (clearing of bad manners - my wife's OBXT threw a TGV code a few days after getting tuned and went into limp mode. I took a LV, saw the tables looked good, cleared the code and all has been well, if the TGV's dont mess up again, I'm not messing with 'em).

If LV doesnt say anything maybe time to take a log and post up. Anyway, I wish I could be more helpful.

EDIT: when I say laptop I actually have a netbook that fits in the passenger seat back nicely, when I say to LV occasionally its just to monitor for changes so you know what it usually looks like, etc...

Cars don't revert back to stock maps by themselves. Yours simply CAN'T do that. The stock map is nowhere to be found except on your laptop. The car can't just pull it out of its tailpipe and flash it. Therefore, it did not revert and you need to find out (if it happens again) WHAT happened exactly.

Next time don't flash or reset. Do as LALGT said and pull an LV.

You probably have knock correction to the degree where IAM has dropped, and dropped low enough to disable the boost control system. When that happens you are down to actuator pressure alone, which is about 9psi. As mentioned, resetting the ECU just clears the stored knock corrections and that will make the car drive normally for a while. Chances are the same process will happen again and you'll be in the same place.

IIWY I'd drive the car normally for a few days and then log a few pulls and send them to Shamar so he can figure out what is wrong. You might have a leak somewhere, a faulty sensor or or or. I don't like to second-guess the work of other tuners on the forums and I'd be a bit insulted if one of my customers asked a forum for help before coming to me.

Originally Posted by iNVAR

Cars don't revert back to stock maps by themselves. Yours simply CAN'T do that. The stock map is nowhere to be found except on your laptop. The car can't just pull it out of its tailpipe and flash it. Therefore, it did not revert and you need to find out (if it happens again) WHAT happened exactly.

Next time don't flash or reset. Do as LALGT said and pull an LV.

thanks nvar I didn't reflash because of this. I will pull an LV tonight and see what we have.

Originally Posted by fahr_side

You probably have knock correction to the degree where IAM has dropped, and dropped low enough to disable the boost control system. When that happens you are down to actuator pressure alone, which is about 9psi. As mentioned, resetting the ECU just clears the stored knock corrections and that will make the car drive normally for a while. Chances are the same process will happen again and you'll be in the same place.

IIWY I'd drive the car normally for a few days and then log a few pulls and send them to Shamar so he can figure out what is wrong. You might have a leak somewhere, a faulty sensor or or or. I don't like to second-guess the work of other tuners on the forums and I'd be a bit insulted if one of my customers asked a forum for help before coming to me.

Your hitting it on the head I think. Especially as the car seems even slower than stock.good idea. I'll do a RR and LV tonight. I drove a good 100 miles or so with it like this.

post a LV will you ffs.


i was in west hartford over the weekend

I have my map set up so that any drop in AIM below .85 cuts boost to spring pressure. It is a good way of knowing (when you don't have your laptop) pretty quickly if you are knocking a lot.

Good news is - my IAM has never droppped low enought to cut boost.

Originally Posted by Spec B

Good news is - my IAM has never droppped low enought to cut boost.

WELL ARENT YOU SPECIAL SPEC!

BMX, was your west hahtfahd experience everything you thought it would be?

visiting my sister. and damn i hate farmington ave roads

Originally Posted by LosAngelesLGT

You need to bring your laptop with you wherever you go in your tuner car as a precaution.
.

Are you serious here. I cant tell

Originally Posted by paintpollz

WELL ARENT YOU SPECIAL SPEC!

My point was (other than my car and tune are awesome) that ideally, IAM shouldn't ever drop at all.

Unless something like bad gasoline or some other mechanical problem is causing it.