REmoved my Front Sway Bar - turn in is now AWESOME!!!

So my lap timer was showing that I was losing a few thousandths on my daily autocross course and I was hearing an annoying clunk from under my car.

I decided to have a look under my car and wouldn't you know it, one of the front sway bar links was broken I removed the link and since I didn't have any lying around due to my sloppy inventory control I removed the entire bar so that it didn't fop around and scratch my tire rod ends.

The car's handling is not INCREDIBLE!!!! Turn in is almost as good as in a Mustang V6

I may not reinstall the bar. I know a lot of people install larger rear sway bars, but installing a smaller front sway bar is the same thing and having no sway bar in the front is like an infinitely small bar!

On a side note, the rear O2 sensor also decided that it had enough and it failed. MY SUBARU IS FALLING APART I guess everyone is right.

Originally Posted by rao

I was an annoying drunk under my car. I guess everyone is right.

Fixed.

Must be a lack of oil threads lately

For reals or fake thread?

Ive read about it for auto cross, but how about fwy speeds stability now?

Shouldn't have driven it at all.

I ran my bb6 prelude without a front swaybar for the longest time.

I never put it back on and don't remember if it helped or hurt turning

I have heard from multiple people that removal of the FSB dramatically improves Legacy handling. Seems like a much smarter upgrade than spending money on sway bars imo.

Oh the sarcasm in this thread.....though I was being serious about the sway bar being disabled in the BB6

So what should I do....I just installed my Whiteline Adjustable links in the front....take them back off now?

I mean they weight a whole 3 lbs each, and then I can take off the COBB bar.....another 4 lbs.

10 lbs off the front of the car.....oh man, the possibilities

Originally Posted by rao

...

The car's handling is not INCREDIBLE!!!! Turn in is almost as good as in a Mustang V6

...

Depending on the vintage of the Mustang, these two sentences may agree with each other, and I may agree with them both...

I don't think you should drive it.

Here are a few other free mods:

1) Debadge. This saves weight at the very extremes of the car.

2) Drop tire pressure by 2 or 3 psi. This reduces the unsprung mass your Legacy will have to deal with, and improve performance.

3) Improve throttle response by replacing the Intercooler with a piece of PVC pipe. That way you get a smooth custom fit, sure to improve performance AND save weight and drop the CG.

4) Don't worry about lowering springs, just load the car up with sand-bags, then snug some zipties around the springs. A few hundred will easily do the trick. Use the sand-bags to fine-tune ride height for that racing look. After the ties are in place, remove the sandbags.

5) Drain out a quart of oil. It'll save weight, and the car is designed to work throughout the WHOLE range from E to F. Also, remove the oil-can light behind the gauge cluster. It'll save weight, and prevent a bright amber light from illuminating low in your field of vision, that could distract you and cause an accident.

6) Just run inner brake pads, and block the sliders on the caliper. That way the inner pads will engage, and you won't have to worry about wearing through rotors. This will save weight in two manners, first simply from unsprung mass removal. The second, is removing weight from the periphery of the rotation of the wheel/tire/control-arm system. This reduces it's angular inertia and helps the suspension to work better. In addition, the decrease in weight means the brakes will have improved feel and response.

7) Remove the uppipe. This will nearly eliminate backpressure, ensuring a free-flowing system that will make more power.

I can't think of any others, but perhaps others can add to this list.

Very real, the link broke and I removed the sway bar until I get a new set of endlinks.

The rear o2 sensor also went out.

I suppose my choice of endlink oil might be to blame. I will have to run an oil analysis on it to see what happened.

Just reflash your car and remove the rear O2 alltogether

but leave the bung out so you can super exhaust leak your Hogzwast

Wow...so much sarcasm and some truth in this thread...Sways don't only reduce body roll but they are also used for balancing the front and rear. Thats why your aftermarket front sway may be 75% stiffer but the aftermarket rear is like 180% stiffer than stock...WOW better turn in. Why? because the balance front and rear are different than stock.

Thread to check out if you don't believe me:http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1981716

Check the mod list...