0. Park your car on ramps if you have them, if not you can jack it up in step 10.
1.Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Remove upper radiator hose.
Note 1. I planned to remove the radiator fans, but the bolts holding the top of the fans to the radiator were rusted and I ended up cracking the radiator, so since it is not necessary to remove the fans I don't recommend it.
3. Remove the alternator and power steering belt. http://youtu.be/eOPSKGa7aDQ
4. Remove the a/c belt.
5. Remove crank pulley bolt.
Here is a video of the way cool kids do that:
here are photos of how I do it: http://flic.kr/p/dmoXqa
Those items are a 3/8" socket extension, a random bolt, pry bar and my size 10 boot.
6. Wiggle the old crank pulley off making note of the location of the key.
7. Set the new crank pulley on the end of the shaft and rotate it until the key lines up, then wiggle the pulley on to the shaft.
8. Place 2 small drops of gear oil on the threads of the crank pulley bolt
Note 2. The oil helps get a true reading on your torque wrench.
9. Tighten the crank pulley bolt as tight as you can by hand.
Note 3. Because the timing belt is still in place don't worry about spinning the crank, as long as you spin it clockwise, it's fine.
Note 4. If you didn't disconnect the negative battery cable when you started, then do it now, otherwise when you go to start the car the crank position sensor value stored in the ECU won't match the actual crank position.
10. If your car is not on ramps, jack it up and place jack stands under the frame rails.
10.5 put your torque wrench, equipped with a 22mm socket, on the crank pulley bolt and rotate it so the handle of your torque wrench points to 1 o'clock.
11. Get under the car and locate your front differential drain plug
12. Peering between the differential and sub frame you will get a view of the flywheel.
Note 5. When you go to tighten the crank pulley bolt it will rotate the bottom of the flywheel towards the passenger side of the car.
13. Place the tip of a long screwdriver in-between the the teeth of the flywheel farthest to the passenger side.
Note 6. The weight of your torque wrench sitting at the 1 o'clock position should be enough to hold your screw driver in place, but if not, have a friend put some pressure on your torque wrench to pinch the tip of your screwdriver in place.
14. With your screwdriver in place you can tighten the crank pulley bolt and the transmission won't move. Tighten crank pulley bolt to 90lbs.
Note 7. Tighten the bolt to whatever spec makes you happy. Perrin says 90lbs, so that's what I tightened mine to.
Note 8. 90lbs of pressure will not break a tooth on your flywheel nor will it snap a quality screwdriver tip.
15. REMOVE THE SCREWDRIVER FROM YOUR FLYWHEEL!
16. Replace your ac belt.
17. Replace your alternator belt.
18. Reconnect your upper radiator hose.
19. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
20. If your car is jacked up lower it back down.
21. Top off your coolant.
22. Say a little prayer to the car Gods.
23. Turn your key to the 'on' position, wait for gauge sweep to finish, then start the car!
24. Bleed the air out of your cooling system
25. Go forth and drive fast!
This modification was part of a series of mods I did to get rid of the feeling 'heaviness' the car had before boost. Together with a short ram intake that isolates a large cone filter in the passenger fender and a catless up pipe this modification makes in-town and all other 'off boost' situations much more enjoyable.