Perrin Divider?

I read the Perrin instructions on installing there DP on LGT's and it say we my have to actually remove the flow separator to make it fit. Now why would we spend that much cabbage to get a divorced wastegate and have to remove the most vital device in managing the flow. Has anyone had to do that to put their Perrin on their VF46? I am getting a DP and I going to get it coated by either Swain or Grimmspeed. It was a toss up between the Nameless DP and the Perrin catted units but I am looking for feedback on the Perrin now that I read that little section of their instructions.

It sounds like the problems people have with the invidia DP's. You have to trim it down or else the wastegate flapper will hit it and not open all the way.

Just trim it. like 1/4 of an inch.

Is that trim need so that it will mate up to the housing flush?

Stay away form Perrin, nothing they sell fits, esp. exhaust stuff.

Invidia,

This is where I got mine.

http://www.tuningalliance.com/produc...s.php?id=13662

interesting all my exhaust stuff is perrin and fits like a glove....its trimmed so the wastegate flap doesnt hit when it open.

Originally Posted by robitrice

interesting all my exhaust stuff is perrin and fits like a glove....its trimmed so the wastegate flap doesnt hit when it open.

Let me see how your exhaust tips line up!

I looked at the invidia. I dropped bells off my list. I am getting the DP coated and bells don't maximize using a thermal barrier to keep the exhaust velocity high out of the turbine. My effort is to get my torque curve as wide as possible within the system I am going to use. That system includes stock iron headers with larger piping where applicable. Everything will be ported and coated including my VF46 to increase the systems efficiency to as close to ideal as I can get it. In my view it is as important to extract spent gases out of the turbine as unimpeded and energetic as possible, as it is to get those gases into the turbine as unimpeded and energetic as possible. Every hot pipe has lagging, (insulation), on submarines for a reason. Energy extraction happens at the turbine. Loss of energy in the inlet piping through any of the three heat transfer modes is combated to get as much to the turbine as possible. Loss in the outlet piping is combated just as vigorously because the pressure Delta across the turbine assembly increases with the exhaust velocity increase and so the turbine efficiency goes up. All these little system links add up.

Throttle valves in all the turbine systems I have worked on were globe valves. That flat plate just bugs the crap outta me. I wish I could change it to an orb or even a half sphere. Anything would be better than slapping that barn door across the bypass path...,

yea they add up but ur on a vf46 which is at its efficiency basically when it is tuned for general stage 2 upgrades.....sounds more like a whole lot of work for minimal results.

gt ill let u kno when i put my mufflers on next week. perrin up and dp were perfect fits with no issues at all. everyone has their experiences and mine was good

sounds more like a whole lot of work for minimal results.



That's what I'm thinking.


Remember this is a DD with a small turbo. It's not a race car. I understand about getting the max amount of HP.

I built a 586whp 1.6L Honda.

But it's your money, not the tax payers dollars.

I happen to build O2 generators for the Navy Sub's, and NASA Space Station, so I also know about spending the taxers dollars.

lol. Heres an analogy. You have a small amp so you go small wires right? Not a lot of power 50W so why waste the money o big wires. Makes since? Accually no. If you have such a small amount of power why would you get the smallest wire to hook it up. That wire has enough restance in it when you are running it to all your speaks that you lose near 20% of that 50W's so you are really only sending 40 watts to you speakers. Big fat wires have something like .0011 percent resistance with ten gauge compared to sonething like .02 per foot for 22 gauge. So which is better losing 1 watt per foot of your 50 watts or .06 watts per foot?
I am not out for maximum HP. I just don't want to lose any by giving it away to the air when I paid for it at the pump. If it escapes to the air then I am not using it. That is worth spending my money on. If my minimal gain is to shift the torque curve left a bit then I have spent my money well.

if you can tell the difference between .04 watts in a sound system you have special skills. if you can tell the difference between 5-10 in lb/ft of tq you are more sensitive than most. gl

It is .04 watts per foot. If your amp is the trunk and you just run on cable to your front woofers. Say 15ft of cable. That is 30ft times .06 equals 1.8 watts. you have lost nearly 2 watts going to just one speaker so yes.., you can hear the difference. I am not even using the actual math because it is current dependent. If you get even close to reality and say you actually do start with a real 50wdc and you divide that by your average system voltage of 12v means that you are shoving close to 4 amps through your 30 foot .06 ohm per foot wire. So guess what? You are burning .24 watts per foot. 30ft of wire to one speaker is costing you over seven watts out of your precious 50. There are no special skills. It is just the way electricity works. This is a very simple model but maybe you get the idea now.

It is also where the 5-10 lb/ft of torque is on my curve. If it is on the curve where you are normally seeing 200 then no I cound not tell the difference. If it manifest on the curve where I normally see 30 to 100 as the ramp goes up or it modifies my ramp and thereby broadens the area under my torgue curve then yes, even I can tell the difference.