SomethingWittyAsAUsername Posted December 18, 2012 Share Posted December 18, 2012 I just bought a 91 wagon to keep my 95 company....for only $300 However, it won't idle at all when it's cold. It gets better as it warms up, and once it is at operating temp, it's perfect. Any idea what I'm looking at? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted December 18, 2012 Share Posted December 18, 2012 IAC is prolly failing in the cold. you would have to confirm this though with diag tools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnstrmech Posted December 19, 2012 Share Posted December 19, 2012 coolant temp sensors can cause this condition too... and these engines are common for bad coolant temp sensors Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SomethingWittyAsAUsername Posted December 19, 2012 Author Share Posted December 19, 2012 Thanks for the info! I hadn't thought of coolant temp. I know where the IAC valve is, and I'm going to take that off right now and make sure it's not clogged and can still move. Other notes: I don't get a check engine light. Even when the car is warm, when I let the clutch out and the motor is above 2000 rpm, the revs drop to almost zero, but recover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94legacy22 Posted December 19, 2012 Share Posted December 19, 2012 my coolant temp sensor went bad, and did the same thing. only the coolant fan would run on high till i cleared the code and replaced the sensor. once replaced and disconected the battery for 20 min the fan shut off and it runs great cold now. Now to locate a cheep Maf sensor that i need... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SomethingWittyAsAUsername Posted December 19, 2012 Author Share Posted December 19, 2012 Would my temp gauge still work with a bad sensor? I only wonder since mine does Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted December 20, 2012 Share Posted December 20, 2012 There are two coolant temp sensors. They are side by side on the coolant crossover pipe. One goes to the cluster gauge, and the other goes to the ecu. 94legacy22, there are a lot of junkyards out here. I could probably find you one if you don't have any luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SomethingWittyAsAUsername Posted December 20, 2012 Author Share Posted December 20, 2012 So any idea which sensor goes to the ECU? And is the MAF an option? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted December 20, 2012 Share Posted December 20, 2012 I'm not 100% sure, but one sensor is labeled the water temp sensor, and the other is labeled water temp gauge. I would guess the water temp sensor goes to the ecu. The MAF is standard on n/a first gens. Is that what you are asking? Or do mean a bad MAF may be your problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SomethingWittyAsAUsername Posted December 20, 2012 Author Share Posted December 20, 2012 Thanks for the diag, but where exactly is that pipe? And I have two model numbers for temperature sensors. One is just a spade connector, while the other is a two prong electrical connector. And can the MAF be a problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted December 20, 2012 Share Posted December 20, 2012 The water pipe is large and sits underneath the intake mani which is why you haven't noticed it before. The left side connects to the upper radiatator hose, follow that back and you will see it. The spade connector is temp sensor part 22630 AA040 or 22630 AA041. That is the part that will connect to your ecu. The other sensor is gauge sensor 21203 AA030. You want the spade connector. If you want zip files of the factory service manual and/or complete parts catalog pm your email and I'll send them to you. They are very useful and informative. The MAF can be a problem, but it probably isn't your problem. If it was your car would run like crap all the time or not at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SomethingWittyAsAUsername Posted December 20, 2012 Author Share Posted December 20, 2012 Excellent! Thanks! I plane on taking the IACV off tomorrow and firing it cold. If I'm correct and that's the issue, won't it idle just fine? And I hope it's that. IAC valves are really expensive :/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted December 20, 2012 Share Posted December 20, 2012 I don't know enough about the IAC valve to say. I know it sends higher rpms on a cold start. I don't know if it is a good idea or not to run the car with it off. I know that you would want a replacement gasket on hand if you decide to take it off. I would try cleaning it and then reinstalling it first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LGTLtd Posted December 20, 2012 Share Posted December 20, 2012 Thanks for the diag, but where exactly is that pipe? And I have two model numbers for temperature sensors. One is just a spade connector, while the other is a two prong electrical connector. And can the MAF be a problem? there happens to be nice picture in an active thread in this forum: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4201807&postcount=706 All I need now is a hill holder and a center passing light... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted December 21, 2012 Share Posted December 21, 2012 ^That is on a 22T, not a 22E. The coolant temp sensors are in different locations depending on the model. On the 22T they are located above the knock sensor. On the 22E they are more to the left. The diagram I posted above is for a n/a 22E. But it is a great pic of the water pipe. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94legacy22 Posted December 21, 2012 Share Posted December 21, 2012 There are two coolant temp sensors. They are side by side on the coolant crossover pipe. One goes to the cluster gauge, and the other goes to the ecu. 94legacy22, there are a lot of junkyards out here. I could probably find you one if you don't have any luck. ok cool i'l pm u if i need it... my car surges while accelerating. i clean the maf with cleaner and its good for about a week then starts acting up again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SomethingWittyAsAUsername Posted December 30, 2012 Author Share Posted December 30, 2012 Ok, so I replaced the plugs, air and fuel filters, and the coolant sensor with the spade connector. It helped a bit, but it still stalls, and sometimes when warm. Also cleaned the IACV. Any more ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LGTLtd Posted December 30, 2012 Share Posted December 30, 2012 A shot of techron concentrate and a tank of shell 93? Any codes? You cleaned the throttle body when you did the iacv? TPS? Vacuum leak from a bad hose? All I need now is a hill holder and a center passing light... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SomethingWittyAsAUsername Posted December 30, 2012 Author Share Posted December 30, 2012 Well, I pulled the codes, and here is where this gets weird. It doesn't have a CEL, but it has codes for: Crank Pos Sensor Fuel injector 2 Fuel Injector 3 MAF low voltage IACV Can Purge Valve Solenoid Idle Switch (What?) and Improper MAF used (That was me when I accidentally used the different style. No vacuum leaks we can see, and i ran lucas through first tank, and seafoam on the second. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LGTLtd Posted December 30, 2012 Share Posted December 30, 2012 I think the idle switch is used in conjuction with the TPS. Time to get the meter out and check the MAF and Crank angle sensor for sure. All I need now is a hill holder and a center passing light... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LGTLtd Posted December 30, 2012 Share Posted December 30, 2012 Since you just acquired the car you might want to check the various sensors with a meter and reset the codes. Who knows how long those codes have been stored. Then recheck codes in short while to see which ones pop back up. Also would be worth it to pull grounds and clean contacts up. Vacuum leaks in old hoses can be hard to find. Best is to just work through and pull each hose one by one. Inspect and replace as nessecary. I've never used Lucas fuel system cleaner. I've used seafoam, but techron concentrate and regane are usually held in higher regard. All I need now is a hill holder and a center passing light... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SomethingWittyAsAUsername Posted December 30, 2012 Author Share Posted December 30, 2012 Sounds like a plan. Anybody have the specs and/or procedure of testing the sensors with a multimeter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LGTLtd Posted December 30, 2012 Share Posted December 30, 2012 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=90611 No exact value given in this thread I just found, but some where to start. Look for threads on here, legacy central and ultimate to start with via google. Good luck, let us know what you find... All I need now is a hill holder and a center passing light... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 somethingwittyasausername, pm me your email address and I'll send you the complete factory service manual and parts catalog for 90-94 legacies. It should have all the specs for the sensors. Reset your ecu like 05lgt recommends. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SomethingWittyAsAUsername Posted January 5, 2013 Author Share Posted January 5, 2013 [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ysGEyW-QC0]I'VE MENDED SOMETHING! - YouTube[/ame] I got it to run and idle perfectly when stone cold. This morning, it fired up, went to back out, and then it died and wouldn't restart. I pulled the battery to test it and reset the ECU. While it was out, I found the ground cable going from the battery to behind the driver side headlight had a very dirty contact, so I cleaned it. I also took the intake off and cleaned the throttle body (during which the little straw came off the aerosol cleaner and blew into the intake manifold. Plenty of fun to retrieve!) I'm not sure what it was, but for future reference for anyone looking, the problem was solved by either A) Throttle body cleaning B) ECU reset C) Cleaning grounds or maybe any combination. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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