JermTheElf Help Thread

Hello all,


So I'm making a thread to track progress of my build as well as post up questions I have that I can't find by spending time searching or researching.


Here's where I'm at:

87,000 miles
2005 manual
BURNING OIL LIKE A MOTHERFUCKER
(1.5 qts every 3000 miles and getting worse)


I'm picking up an ej25 block tomorrow in NH that needs new pistons. I plan on opening it up and replacing bearings and putting Wiseco pistons in.

I also have the following laying around:
FMS FMIC
KN Intake
VF52 Turbo
(soon: grimmspeed ebcs, dw65c fuel pump)
And I'll need a Spec stg 2+ clutch for the build.


I'm hoping to have the stage 3 build done in the summer.

First question:

For the block, what size bolts can I buy to thread into the bellhousing to secure it to the engine stand?

Originally Posted by JermTheElf

First question:

For the block, what size bolts can I buy to thread into the bellhousing to secure it to the engine stand?

And the correct bolt size is m10x1.25 for the starter bolt on the drivers side, the bOlt hole below that and the bolt hole on upper passenger side of the block, there appears to be other different sized bolt holoes lower on the block that I wil have to figure out later, but for now m10x1.25 is the elusive number. =D

subbed for eventual engine asplosion

My whole LGT experience was just in German. I was freaking out for a second. Almost needed help with that.

Is it common for people installing bearings / pistons to have the rotating assembly balanced? I haven't read much on builds regarding balancing. Mainly just replacing and installing.

Originally Posted by JermTheElf

Is it common for people installing bearings / pistons to have the rotating assembly balanced? I haven't read much on builds regarding balancing. Mainly just replacing and installing.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...ating+assembly

This isn't so hard.

If you're getting a crank from someone, inspect the bearing surfaces for grooves, if your fingernail gets stuck on any grooves you should discard. If they are all smooth you can safely assume the crank is still in balance in and of itself.

This is assuming catastrophic failure hasn't happened in the engine and it's just a shortblock with, say, ringland failure. If the shortblock had a spun bearing, I'd be weary about the crank bearing condition pending closer inspection. Once you choose your forged piston of choice, and they are installed properly, there shouldn't be a balance issue. Same with new bearing install, main and rod bearings.

Depending on how long the donor block was driven with a cracked ringland depicts the likely condition of the cyl wall and how badly, if, scored and scraped. You could get lucky and have a very superficial scoring which a cyl honing would suffice. Anything deeper would need machining and bore of 100mm....but if it were my car, I'd find a block with better condition walls and keep 99.5's in there after a quick hone and rehatch, that's my personal opinion.

Picked up a block last night:



You can still see the cross hatching in all of the cylinder walls. Turns over easy by hand. No scoring or anything in the cylinders.

nice, what part of "boston"? LMK if you ever need a hand. I have a block in my basement waiting for me too. Did the crank walk in and out at all? If you plan on high revs or over 350whp I would def balance the assembly. Also make sure you double check clearances if you are putting together the lower end on your own.

Double check the valves that are in your engine now for burning, its common if cars have been on factory tune for awhile, just something to be prepared for. I would clean as many connectors as possible with compressed air and spray them with PB, they are a bear to get apart for some reason on these car. If your turbo at any point was leaking any coolant make sure the cam sensor connector and tgv bolts near it arent completely rotted out.

Originally Posted by JermTheElf

Picked up a block last night:



You can still see the cross hatching in all of the cylinder walls. Turns over easy by hand. No scoring or anything in the cylinders.

Open deck?

Ya I heard for the 300-400 hp range open or closed deck didn't make a difference. Do you suggest otherwise?

And I plan on rebuilding bottom end with ACL bearings, I wasn't sure about replacing the crank unless I take it to a machine shop and they say its warped or something.

I was going to have my heads refurbished at a machine shop.

I'm in the North Shore and I'd love a hand. I was planning on using either Mahle or Wiseco pistons. This is a daily driven car and I drive around 20,000 miles a year

Find a good machine shop. Let them do what they do best. Inspect everything, check everything, they'll tell you if it needs to be bored and just honed, then buy pistons. They are matched to the hole they will go in. The shop will do measurements and hone or bore each cylinder to match the piston.


Unless you have the skills to rebuild a engine, I suggest you leave it to the Pro's.

After all, it's what they do


You'll need long 10mm X 1.25 bolts for the block to engine stand. I'm thinking 4" long, measure your engine stand and add a inch or more. you can use washers if they are to long.

Before I proceed is the block I purchased appropriate for me setup seeing as its open deck?