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#1:
11-01-2012, 04:44 PM
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No rear defrost?
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Title: New Member
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Posts: 16
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iTrader: (0)
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Yes can anyone tell me why my rear defrost will not work,i checked fuses and all are good.the light lights up on the switch but does not defrost,this is on a 97 legacy awd 4door sedan thx.
Last edited by kriptnite; 11-01-2012 at 04:53 PM..
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#2:
11-01-2012, 04:50 PM
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Title: Senior Contributor
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Car: 1998 Legacy GTB
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Posts: 957
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iTrader: (1)
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Have you check plugs and contacts under the trim?
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#3:
11-01-2012, 04:53 PM
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Title: New Member
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Posts: 16
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iTrader: (0)
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no i have not.was really not sure where the wiring ran?but like i say the switch does light up?
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#4:
11-01-2012, 05:12 PM
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Title: New Member
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Posts: 16
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iTrader: (0)
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i see lots of stuff on here about rear defrost trouble but no fixes?
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#5:
11-01-2012, 06:02 PM
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Title: Senior Member
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Location: plainfield, ct
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Car: 95 legacy outback
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Posts: 364
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iTrader: (0)
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my 95 legacy wagon had problems with the rear windshield last year. until my dad made me realize it was my connectors on the winshield them self. there shold be one on each side. make sure theyre connected. if theyre broken off i cant help u there for i got lucky mine were unplugged
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#6:
11-01-2012, 06:48 PM
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Title: Member
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Location: Fredericksburg, VA
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Car: 95 Legacy LS and 2000 Mazda Protege LX
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Posts: 123
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iTrader: (0)
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I had a blown fuse when i bought my ls and after replacing it, only the bottom two and very top elements work. Hopefully this will help but something tells me there may be another issue.
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#7:
11-01-2012, 07:09 PM
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Title: Senior Contributor
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Car: 1998 Legacy GTB
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Posts: 957
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iTrader: (1)
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Yes two plugs one each side, they come undone in the wagons due to closing boot over and over with force. If they're broken pop the glass and get insurance to fix it. Or attempt to fix, whatever suits
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#8:
11-01-2012, 07:22 PM
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Title: Senior Member
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Location: plainfield, ct
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Car: 95 legacy outback
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Posts: 364
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iTrader: (0)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stasis
Yes two plugs one each side, they come undone in the wagons due to closing boot over and over with force. If they're broken pop the glass and get insurance to fix it. Or attempt to fix, whatever suits
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I kno at advance auto they have a repair kit in the help section if it does break
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#9:
11-01-2012, 09:48 PM
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Title: Senior Contributor
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Car: 1998 Legacy GTB
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Posts: 957
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iTrader: (1)
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^Do you know if there are kits to repair the actual heat bars themselves?
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#10:
11-01-2012, 09:53 PM
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Title: Burning Monkey
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Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
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Car: 95 BK, 93 SS!
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Posts: 3,537
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iTrader: (2)
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I have a wagon, and not a sedan like you but I had some trouble with my rear defroster because I broke one of the defroster tabs off. Loctite sells a defroster tab repair kit. It has conductive glue that you use to glue the tab back on. I just put some sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the tab back and forth to clean it off and keep it flat.
Another problem that you may have is that a conductive line (or heat bar as stasis calls them) that spans the windshield is broken. Loctite also sells a kit to fix that. You tape the glass off to make a thin line and paint the stuff on.
If it isn't either of those issues I would check the defroster tabs to make sure that power is actually getting to them.
link to heat bar/defogger kit on Amazon:
Last edited by monkeyposeur; 11-01-2012 at 09:56 PM..
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#11:
11-02-2012, 02:15 AM
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Title: Member
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Car: 1995 Legacy L Wagon 5MT
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Posts: 151
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iTrader: (0)
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There is a defroster repair kit that comes with a conductive paint. Iirc, you just paint a broken line or such back on. I only use the stuff for motherboard and computer work, so I've never actually used it for it's true purpose
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#12:
11-02-2012, 09:35 AM
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Title: Senior Member
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Location: plainfield, ct
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Car: 95 legacy outback
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Posts: 364
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iTrader: (0)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stasis
^Do you know if there are kits to repair the actual heat bars themselves?
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I was about to take a pic of it at work but we r out of stock :/
Edit: we got a truck in today and stocked the shelves. This one fixes the lines on the window ( grids) and tabs
Last edited by Grimmrican; 11-02-2012 at 04:30 PM..
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#13:
11-03-2012, 10:13 PM
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Title: Burning Monkey
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Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
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Car: 95 BK, 93 SS!
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Posts: 3,537
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iTrader: (2)
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This is the same product that I posted a link to in my earlier post:
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#14:
11-03-2012, 11:18 PM
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Title: Senior Member
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Location: plainfield, ct
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Car: 95 legacy outback
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Posts: 364
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iTrader: (0)
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That's one of the older packagings lol theyre made by permatex so it's whatever lol they r exactly the same thing. Except u can get it a lot faster if u hit up ur nearest parts shop
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#15:
11-17-2012, 05:02 AM
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Title: Senior Contributor
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Location: Amherst, NY
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Car: 1999 Lesbian Moving Van
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Posts: 725
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iTrader: (0)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stasis
Yes two plugs one each side, they come undone in the wagons due to closing boot over and over with force. If they're broken pop the glass and get insurance to fix it. Or attempt to fix, whatever suits
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I work in auto glass, if they're broken, like monkey said, the kit works nicely. Don't pop the glass, as the rear window is incapsulated and very very expensive. Even if you have insurance, the agents are going to watch out since a 400 dollar window is going into a 14 year old car. Plus is makes for insurance rates to be higher for everyone.
With those kits, from professional experience, work as long as you let the set up for 24 hrs before re-attaching the tabs. Like stasis said check the wear under the boot, and check the tabs.
When you take off the rear pillar covers, the tabs will be sunken under the pinchweld, they wont be in plain sight.
This is the tab stuff that NAGS (National auto glass standardization) let's us use, the best from everything we have tried: http://www.frostfighter.com/prt2000.htm
And here is the same companies grid repair: http://www.frostfighter.com/prt2100.htm
Hope this helps!
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