non-invasing oil sep plate repair

I have been playing wack-a-mole with various small oil leaks lately. I am still diagnosing but it looks like I might have an separation plate leak. The correct fix for this, as I understand it, is to pull the engine and replace the plate with the steel version. I lack the equipment/money/intelligence to do this. Any chance I could fix it with some RTV or similar? I suspect not or everyone would use it but thought I should ask.
Thanks

Unfortunately you will have to pull your motor for that type of fix.no way around it...rtv and silicone based adhesives won't stick to fresh oil and that its got a cure time. If its a noticeable leak you may want to do it quick to keep your oil pressure where it needs to be..small leak will just get bigger....hate to tell you that. But the amazing engineers at Fuji ulheavy industries decided to deliver a vehicle that is very simple to take apart with minimal tools and equipment needed. If I was you I would go get a chiltons a buddy and get your hands dirty.you will appreciate your Subaru more once you get inside it....giggity.but seriously they are user friendly.

Just make sure you unbolt your tourk converter and unclip all of your wires and you should be good.

Yeah exactly the diiference between auto and standard is torque converter must not move...I'm in The process of swapping my older 2.2 for a 2.2 out of a n impreza obs. Its my 2.2 tired and I absolutely love that its still running ok with 267k miles on it...just got a smooth deal on that 98 motor.

^Your new 2.2 will be an interference engine.

Joaks, like the guys said above you will have to pull your engine to replace the oil separator plate. If the engine is leaking back there it could also be your rear main crankshaft seal, which will also require you to pull the engine or trans.

Do you have a 5MT or a 4EAT?

The good thing about pulling your engine is you can replace everything else why you are at it. Also, like the guys said above it's not too bad to pull a subie engine. It's just a bit daunting the first time but afterwards you will know your way around a boxer.

Are you sure that is where the oil is coming from? You can get U.V dye that you dump into your oil, drive it for a bit, then shine a black light on it and see where the oil is coming from. I would power spray the bottom of the engine first. You can pay a mechanic to do this. It's not too.

What other seals have you replaced? Common sources of leaks are valve cover gaskets, cam seals, the crankshaft seal, cam cap 0-rings (aka camshaft support o-rings), oil separator plate, and the rear main seal. Check your power steering pump as well for leaks. It can look like an oil leak.

Thanks for the feedback everyone! If I have to pull the engine then that is what I will do. It might be after Christmas when I get a good look at it.

Last Friday I checked the oil and was surprised it was about a quart low. I noticed I had oil leaking from around the grommets on the valve cover gasket (I suspected that was why my oil was low). On Saturday I replaced those (seem to be good so far) and changed the oil. Sunday I was under the car again to change the diff fluid and noticed enough oil leaking to produce a drop hanging off of the bottom. I originally suspected the oil pan but the internet tells me this is unlikely. My engine is a reman I bought in 2011 I think which SUGGESTS I should have the steel non-leaking sep plate. As a side note I think the engine was put together on a Friday. My oil filler tube was leaking before. I thought maybe the o-ring was torn or something. Turns out there was no o-ring at all :-P.

I will try the UV dye. I've heard of using that in AC system before. I have the 4EAT.

I am def not sure that is where the oil is coming from. It doesn't help that I dripped some diff fluid in the area by where I think the leak is. It's possible I created a leak while working on the valve covers also. Lots of possibilities. It is on the rear of the engine on the passenger side.

To be continued, thanks for the suggestions!

You might have just lucked out and the leak could be coming frm the front oil seal witch is probably the easiest seals to replace...pop off your pump and get them out cam oil seals would be the next culprits. Glad to be of assistance.

Does the Subaru dealer sell the updated metal plate or where can u buy them? Thx

Yeah that separator plate is a dealer only item. 43.80 is what I paid for mine here in el paso .

Yeah monkey it is interference but with the prospect of bent valves upon t-belt failure, I get a tad higher compression and better headflow and reliability stays the same. The interference thing was taken care of by the timing belt guide and an upgraded timing belt tensioner that's still used until the f series motors came out last year.

So..how is it going?

Pretty good. Felt kinda queasy this morning but now I'm fine. How about you?

Dehydrated, stang?
I feel fine also.
Pretty sure the oil leak is from the plate at this point but haven't worked on it yet. I need to clone myself to be able to get stuff done.

I know the feeling, just got my pitching arm back...lol..gotta tend to the vultures soon. Whoa I was very drunk last night, i am still thirsty though ..weird.