Blown Head Gasket?

Okay, so I have light bubbles in the coolant overflow. Today it would randomly start running hot, and then cool off and be fine for a while. Check the overflow while it was running hot, and it was overflowing, and was cool to the touch. Can this be anything but a head gasket?
Also, how much should I expect it to cost to replace them myself? It's a1990 2.2. And how long does it take? Thanks

Could be a head gasket. How much it costs will depend on whatever else you do while the engine is out. How long it takes varies from person to person, especially if you have done it before.

Could be a bad water pump or thermostat, a block in the coolant passages or heater core. Check for hydrocarbons in the coolant, there is a test for this. You can also have your mechanic do a compression test.

Yeah, well, I don't have a mechanic. So far I have been able to do everything myself. But never had to do a head gasket. I was told the 2.2 can easily be done without pulling the motor, is that true?

I have heard that as well, but have never replaced HGs without pulling the motor. I think people have some issues getting the lower head bolts out, iirc. But people have done it.

This guy did it on his Forester: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulle...-engine-57335/

It's a 2.5 and I don't know how the engine bay spaces compare between the forester and yours.

head gaskets are easily done with the motor still in the car... all you gotta do is unbolt the motor mounts and jack the motor up.... subaru had a TSB about this... i did the head gaskets on mine really easily... these motors are so easy to work on.....

Its easy to take them out too. I did mine in a day heads off cleaned and all seals and gaskets swapped. I have taken the motors out of these in 15 mins before. I got really pissed...

Okay, cool. So do I need to have the heads machined, or not. Considering I still drive it everyday, with minor issues. I would think they are okay. Also, if I am gonna leave the motor in, what else should I do while replacing head gaskets?

Getting the heads machined is about $75 or less, and is a good idea. At the very least, get them checked so you know that they are within tolerances. You don't want to do this twice.

Since the heads have to come off so does the timing belt. Might as well replace all of the pulleys, tensioner, belt, cam seals, crank seal, cam cap o-rings, re-seal your oil pump, water pump, and thermostat. You'll be good to go for another 100k at least.

It's also a good time to change your spark plugs, wires, air filter, fuel filter, change your oil, and clean your throttle body.

Okay, thanks. So it looks like we are gonna pull the motor so we can look at replacing the clutch, and because I just kinda want to. Anything I should know? Also, is there a certain brand of head gaskets I should use? Any tips or pointers? I am having a hard time finding info on pulling a motor in the forums, and some advice from someone who has done it would help a ton.

I would use Subaru head gaskets. Also Felpro are good from what I hear. The Subaru FSM describes in detail how to pull the engine if you can download it. If you don't have an impact gun, you can get a pretty good one for about $70. Mine's a Kawasaki and has been very handy. If you have an air compressor then you are even better off. You don't need one, but they will save you some strain.

Start spraying PB blaster on your four transmission bolts, and where the bell housing meets the engine a day in advance if possible. Also spray your axle nuts, the big ones. It is a lot easier to get at the lower transmission bolts if you undo your axles from the transmission spindles. It may not be necessary, but does make it easier. To get them off the spindles remove the spring punch with a 3/16" punch iirc, then remove the calipers, and undo the bolts that hold the strut to the wheel assembly. Mark where the camber bolts sit with white out so you can get them to where they were before without needing an alignment. Since my engine was a turbo I had to remove the axle on the driver's side. I could get at the passenger side from above after I removed the turbo. Maybe on your n/a 22e you can get at both lower transmission bolts from above. I couldn't because there were too many hoses in the way.

First remove the radiator (drain it first, of course.) Then start to disconnect all the wiring harnesses, air intake, vacuum lines, a/c lines, etc. If you want you can label them by writing with a marker on masking tape. If it is your first time it will help you reconnect everything later.

Aw, screw it. Hang on for a minute while I upload the engine removal procedure from the FSM. Then I'll edit this post.

Here is the next batch of pics. This should help a bit. If you have any more questions let us know.

If the engine is stubborn and won't separate from the transmission very easily, you can get a thin bladed screwdriver or putty knife and whack it in there to get things apart. I'm sure some people will tell you that is a big no no, but it works great. I did it yesterday, in fact. I scratched the mating surfaces a tiny bit, but it doesn't hurt anything mechanical.

So just a minor update here. Still getting bubbles in the coolant, and haven't looked into it any more. But I was poking around this evening and noticed that the lower radiator hose was collapsed. The motor was off an the coolant was cold cause it had been sitting all day. I actually filled the radiator earlier today with the car running till it started overflowing and then put the cap on. So anyway, I noticed it collapsed, and when I pulled the radiator cap off, it sucked a bunch of air, and the hose filled back out. Why is it not sucking the coolant from the overflow? I know the overflow tube is not blocked, as it will push coolant into the tank. Could it be the cap? Any thoughts?

The cap is probably good. Maybe when the system cools down the liquid shrinks and collapses the hose. It still sounds like a HG problem.

So I just started pulling the motor yesterday, and everything was going really good untill it came time to pull the a/c unit. I talked with a guy who said hes done it a couple times, and you can just pull the a/c aside without draining it. Well, we spent a couple hours just trying to get the thing off. It's mounted to a bracket, which it can't come out of without removing the bracket, but i can't get the bracket off without pulling the intake manifold to get to one of the bolts. I am sure I am missing something, but has anyone else ran into this problem?

I set my power steering pump to the side, but not the AC so I didn't run into the same problem that you have. I did disconnect the big hoses going to the AC though. I didn't know any better and I also relieved a tiny bit of pressure by pressing in the valve on the low point. My AC doesn't work at the moment and I need to get it recharged. But I don't know if the AC worked before I pulled the motor either.

You must be missing something. Here's some pics so we can figure out what is going on. The AC comes right off without undoing the bracket that you are talking about. There are two bolts on the bottom right of the compressor, two on the top, and the long bolt that holds it to the engine lifting bracket and alternator. I also undid the hoses that bolt into the side. The hose going to the firewall I disconnected from the AC, and I disconnected the hose that goes to the radiator.