A different trailer hitch option

So i have had a few people asking about this model of hitch
and yes i can make for about 140$ but i want to make more than 1! since i'll have to spend time making drawings.

so laser cut plates 44 ksi steel,

2" cross tube 1/4" wall.

will come with stainless steel bolts and washers. can be painted zinc plated (yellow or white ) or unfinished depending your desire

bolts on the exact same way with the same or thicker steel for construction as other brand hitches. but not drag on the ground.
the bumper cover would need a slight cut in the middle on the horizontal surface.

Would this also fit an outback?

^^^ what he said. If it fits an outback, it ought to fit a lgt wagon. Do you have a rating on the hitch? still trying to figure out if I can tow the race car. :-)

yes it will fit legacy wagon and out back wagon . i'll test fit it on my 05 wagon to make sure ..

well you can tow what ever you want.. but if you get a ticket or pulled off the road is another story. i'm not sure how your local dot would go about checking. typically they would go by what the car manufacturer says.
my self i want to pull my bobcat loader around its 3500 lbs + acessorys. + trailer i do it but it doesn't "look right" so i want to get a enclosed trailer with 2 axels very low to the ground with brakes so it doesn't appear to be a big load.

I think 99% of cops pull over things that look unsafe. will they pull you over and weigh your load and check your hitch tag ? i have never even herd of that.

How does it attach to the tow hook?

^ haha yea i was tiring to remember that also.
looks like the hitch will sit behind it and have a loop that you can drop a bolt through.

Looks like mine will probably be the next one you do Frank, any chance of black powdercoat?
I'm thinking rust prevention so it keeps looking nice here in la belle province with all the road salt...



Paul

PS. Why not just remove the tow loop? Don't need it with a hitch anyway, right?

Originally Posted by slushboxgt

PS. Why not just remove the tow loop? Don't need it with a hitch anyway, right?

The tow loop is directly in-line with the load and also a main attachment point to the car frame. That's why most hitches uses it as a main attachment point. With a large load, it minimizes torque applied to the rail bolts. I suspect its probably the most critical of the attachment points.

Originally Posted by slushboxgt

Looks like mine will probably be the next one you do Frank, any chance of black powdercoat?
I'm thinking rust prevention so it keeps looking nice here in la belle province with all the road salt...



Paul

PS. Why not just remove the tow loop? Don't need it with a hitch anyway, right?

The hitch mounts using the tow-loop.

If you are going to custom make one, why not consider making one like the AUDM version?

http://www.crago.net/subaru/towbar/

The non-North American cars are rated (flat-hitch) for almost 4,000lb!

Originally Posted by BAC5.2

The hitch mounts using the tow-loop.

If you are going to custom make one, why not consider making one like the AUDM version?

http://www.crago.net/subaru/towbar/

The non-North American cars are rated (flat-hitch) for almost 4,000lb!

The Aussie one is too complicated for my needs, but why not just remove the tow loop and use that as an anchor point for the custom receiver?



Paul

But yes I would defiantly tie into the tow hook

Can make the hitch as strong as you want but doesn't mean the officer won't give you a ticket ! They probably have a generic book saying a family sedan can only pull so much. Typically in North America the rule of thumb is the load shouldn't be heavyier than the vehicle pulling in a standard bumber trailer arrangement. 5th wheels can take more
In Europe I have seen small cars pull two horses on a decent size trailer. But in Europe there is a speed limit of about 90 km or 55 mph for any trailer

In the US, the "thumb" allows the towing vehicle to be no less than 80% of the load (if equipped with trailer brakes).

If you made one like the AUDM hitch, I'd probably go for it.

Just snapped these pics of the tow loop, I see that it spot welded to the bottom of the spare tire tub/rear cross member.









I would guess that you probably cut the loop off to get the receiver up in front of it right Frank? You could also probably run a piece of flat stock from the back of the receiver to anchor in that spot, but it hardly seem necessary with that monster hitch that you built...
I would think that the Reese/Hidden Hitch/Draw-Tite version attaches to the bottom loop only because of their V shape design, that way they can hang the whole assembly below the tire well, full bolt-on, and don't have to remove or cut the bumper cover...
A compromise at best though, the down side (pun intended) is that it's way to low to the ground and too far rearward so it scrapes, looks ugly, and most hate having it on their car.



Paul

Originally Posted by BAC5.2

In the US, the "thumb" allows the towing vehicle to be no less than 80% of the load (if equipped with trailer brakes).

If you made one like the AUDM hitch, I'd probably go for it.

oh? ok .. i would actually do a combination of both