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#1: 10-09-2012, 08:09 AM
Cutting rear shock bolt
 
 Shotokan1509
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Trying to install Koni's, rear per a lot of threads here is stuck good.

I have whole bag of tricks to try... but has anyone just cut the bolt? Is it threaded through knuckle or I can just hammer it out after cut? Bolt is already gunked up a bit, wondering do I just "cut" to the chase instead of fighting it replace it. Anyone got a part number?
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#2: 10-09-2012, 08:24 AM
 
 dingbang
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It's straight through in the knuckle, so once cut, you can hammer it out.

You try a box end with a jack pushing it up? I had to break all the tricks out of the bag for that puppy. I remembered this morning that I used a jack hold a box end on the inside while I worked it with a breaker bar.
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#3: 10-09-2012, 08:31 AM
 
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901000177 - Bolt
900335056 - Inside Washer
Nut--no idea on the P/N
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#4: 10-09-2012, 10:38 AM
 
 AZP Installs
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Cut it or if on a lift a 6' breaker bar.

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#5: 10-09-2012, 01:41 PM
 
 Shotokan1509
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Great, ya no lift but if I can get it higher on stands I might be able to get just enough breaker bar. That, some more PB, some heat, some swearing and a BFH.. or cut.
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#6: 10-09-2012, 06:51 PM
 
 dingbang
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You'll eventually get it. I think it took me the better part of two hours with swearing, smoke breaks, 3 beers, staring down the bolt, etc to break both sides loose...not to mention the multiple ways I tried to break em loose
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#7: 10-09-2012, 07:58 PM
 
 Shotokan1509
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Got 'em just needed more height for breaker bar inside towards rear of car. Now need to reinstall them, need to get perfect alignment to knock them in
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#8: 10-14-2012, 03:53 PM
Third world solutions for rear shock R&R
 
 unobtainium
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Just did this. There is an instruction in the manual about using the pantograph jack to unload the rear suspension and it seems weird but it works.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/89180639/sub...G_0463%202.JPG

You have to pull the rear link downward, lifting up on the shock just pushes the whole car up in the air. This looks worse than it is, it's stable.

When you want to tighten the big bolt:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/89180639/subaru/IMG_0468%202.JPG

Finally a cheap device for removing and installing the shock/strut end nut is Oregon tool #57-008 and it's meant for maintaining chain saws. It cost $5.99 at my local Ace hardware.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/89180639/sub...G_0460%202.JPG
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#9: 10-14-2012, 03:56 PM
 
 unobtainium
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second link should be: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/89180639/sub...G_0466%202.JPG
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#10: 10-15-2012, 08:40 AM
 
 xero287
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Why is this so hard for everyone?
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#11: 10-15-2012, 08:54 AM
 
 BarManBean
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xero287 View Post
Why is this so hard for everyone?
Because rusty bolts and no fancy impact thor-hammer?
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#12: 10-15-2012, 08:11 PM
 
 xero287
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I did mine back when I had basic hand tools.

This is how I did it:

1. Remove wheel
2. Use scissor jack to compress shock
3. Use ratchet to undo bolt
3.5. If bolt does not come loose by hand then simply use your leg(s) to push the ratchet
4. Bolt is loose, pull bolt out
5. Lower scissor jack back down
6. Ask yourself, why did everyone on LGT.com have so much trouble with this???
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#13: 10-16-2012, 09:02 AM
 
 ragman
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Quote:
3. Use ratchet to undo bolt
Because this step rarely happens without breaking rackets/extensions/etc!
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#14: 10-16-2012, 09:21 AM
 
 xero287
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Are you kidding me? I used my beater benchtop ratchet with a short socket on it and just pulled. My car was from NH and lived through many salt winters as well.

What is benchtop you ask? Most people don't know simply because of how crappy they are.

If anything, why not just put your jack under the ratchet and begin lifting. I highly doubt the bolt could withstand 1-3 tons of force.
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#15: 10-16-2012, 11:07 AM
 
 Nrw
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Just eat your Wheaties before hand and pull on the damn thing
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