Resurrection of 1993 L

Bought it in '98 - was my 2nd arm throughout a long stay at college. Left it with parents for 5 years while I lived in Europe. Just moved back stateside, took back the car. It had 220k miles on it when I left, now has 236k on it, so it sat around a lot. A few issues; I'm trying to figure out where to focus efforts. So happy to see such a great forum exists for DIY - I've been reading all over for inspiration, finally deciding to make my first post.

First thing noticed was really rough idle, exhaust sounds like it's regularly missing . This was confirmed by emissions test where it failed HC-idle (1439ppm!). Idle CO = 1.00 (just barely passed in Utah). High speed HC=79, CO=0.03 (both passed). I replaced plugs/FF/PCV/oil/OF, cleaned the K+N AF, and added Bar's Leaks to oil, and a Slick50 fuel system cleaner. Filled the tank with high octane fuel (found out later this was a mistake for lowering emissions). Retested and still got only slightly better results (1296 HC / 1.01 CO idle, 47 / 0.15 high speed).

BTW: Noticed the plug in cylinder 1 was covered in black sooty stuff (both bridge, insulator, thread rim). Other plugs seemed pretty good.

 

Next step: compression test. Cylinders 2 and 33 at 124 /132. Cyl1 at 48! Added oil and it stayed the same pressure. Cyl4 was at 77, 2nd test was 90. Tired with oil and got 92, 2nd test after oil was 112. As cyl4 is the hardest to get to, I wonder if I didn't get the tester tight enough, thus the low readings. Will try again after running the car a while to do a new "dry" test. Also noticed that the new plug in cyl1 already has an oily residue on it.

 

Vacuum test: connected to driver's side port on intake manifold. At 4000' elevation, the zero-point on gauge was about 0.3 over-pressure. At idle, got 13.3-14.0 (shaking between those two). At 2500rpm, it was steady at 16.5. When closing throttle, drops to 15 immediately, couple seconds to 14.

 

My initial thoughts: there's a lot of unburned fuel coming into exhaust. Was worried that the cat was damaged and blocked up, but the vacuum test didn't take long to drop back to idle levels, so maybe the cat's still OK. My guess on cyl1 is worn valve guide as there's oil on the new plug, and dry/wet comp test gave same really low pressure.

 

Anyone have a better diagnosis? If it is a valve guide - this requires an engine pull, correct? Trying to decide on worthiness of all the work for such a rust bucket. Thanks in advance.

Welcome to the site. I'm in SLC. I don't have any advice for you. It's not because you are a BYU fan either.

 

It's possible to pull the heads without pulling the engine. But it is way easier to just pull the engine and work on it that way. It gives you a chance to replace all your seals and timing easily.

Welcome to the site. I'm in SLC. I don't have any advice for you. It's not because you are a BYU fan either.

 

Haha - how did you know? And thanks.

I just bought my first home, have my first garage, investing in my first real set of tools. Replacing the axles last week was first use of my new facilities. So I'm excited about trying engine work, just not sure how much I can pull off with my couple minutes each evening after work, kids, etc. So hoping for a little direction as to what I should be looking specifically at, even if I would love to just dismantle everything, try machining, etc.

If you have a garage you can probably rig up a chain hoist to pluck your engine, or just get a harbor freight cherry picker. I had a lot of fun pulling my engine. I replaced every seal, timing, etc. I had the heads decked at a shop. I didn't have to do any valve work though. But I am looking to buy some 205 heads for a project build and if I have to rebuild the heads I am looking forward to giving it a shot.

 

I bought a house but I wish I it had a garage.

If you have the motivation then go for it. As long as the frame of the car is still strong then I wouldn't hesitate to drop the money to have a cheap reliable DD. There is lots of knowledge around here on doing the repairs, ask Monkey, he was in your shoes a few months ago lol

Thanks guys for the encouragement. "First real tools" consists of daily runs to Harbor Fright just before closing time, to pick up the latest piece I needed. If I hadn't spent the money on the garage, I could have spent all that $$ on tools

I rebuilt my 22T under a carport at my friends apartment building. It was cold, and rained often. Garages are nice! You don't need that many tools to rebuild an engine fortunately. A good torque wrench is your best friend, though. subikid recommended this to me: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Torque-1002MFRMH-8-Inch-Handle-Wrench/dp/B002LA19P2/ref=pd_cp_hi_1]Amazon.com: CDI Torque 1002MFRMH 3/8-Inch Drive Metal Handle Click Type Torque Wrench, Torque Range 10 to 100-Fo: Home Improvement[/ame]

 

I love it. But you have little ones, sorry to tempt you.

 

Post up a pic of your car if you get a chance. There is an auto body class you can take in SLC at East High. I took it for two semesters and was able to restore and paint my second gen.

If you have a garage you can probably rig up a chain hoist to pluck your engine, or just get a harbor freight cherry picker.

 

2 people can lift the engine.

just make sure everything is disconnected...

(forgot 2 hoses, but otherwise came out easy.

 

for the record, me and a another friend smaller than me lifted a COMPLETE engine with everything into the back of a lexus, if you break down the engine a bit (like intake manifold) makes it easier to remove.

 

 

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lkPJDhKdJYU[/ame]

Ha ha! Did you use the same guys to put it back in? Putting it back in is a bit more of a delicate operation, lol. Me and a buddy have picked up my engine and I'm only 5'5" and a buck 20. I can pick up the short block no problem by myself, as long as I'm not moving it very far.

2 people can lift the engine.

That's an inspiring video - would save the hoist rental. Might as well pull the grill/radiator with everything else being removed

 

Thanks for the tip on the torque wrench. I'll try to take a pic before the pull.

Ha ha! Did you use the same guys to put it back in? Putting it back in is a bit more of a delicate operation, lol. Me and a buddy have picked up my engine and I'm only 5'5" and a buck 20. I can pick up the short block no problem by myself, as long as I'm not moving it very far.

 

 

 

Car was stripped and junked. block was sold

Lol, I meant that I am able to pick up my shortblock when I was rebuilding it, not pick up your shortblock. I'm in SLC for crying out loud!

 

byuandy, where are you located in UT? We as Utahns are lucky for many reasons. One of them being junkyards full of first gen subarus for our taking of parts!!! If you have any rusty fenders or doors it is easy to find replacements. Engines, drivetrains, etc., it's there.

byuandy, where are you located in UT? We as Utahns are lucky for many reasons. One of them being junkyards full of first gen subarus for our taking of parts!!! If you have any rusty fenders or doors it is easy to find replacements. Engines, drivetrains, etc., it's there.

 

Good point. I'm in Provo. I bought a window from a yard on Provo/Springville border years ago (for the same car). Embarrassing admission: fender splash guards and some front molding are held on with bright orange nylon string (found on the side of the highway 5 minutes after a splash guard fell off). And just bought the wire ties last week to "upgrade" 9 years after the incident Been reading up on overhaul. If I can get it running as well as I want to, I'll probably be at the yards after for body.

Lol, I meant that I am able to pick up my shortblock when I was rebuilding it, not pick up your shortblock. I'm in SLC for crying out loud!

 

I understood your question, You asked if we put it back in, I was just answering your question about physically picking it up, not YOU picking it up.

Im in jerz for crying out loud...

Ha ha!

poor radiator support didnt know what was coming :{

Lol, car was getting junked anyway. There were some gremlins i didn't want to pass on to another member so it was better off dead.

BTW - it's so funny that you've got a bottled drink sitting on the windshield. That must take a lot of skill to not break it while the block's being pulled.

Andy, that is what people outside of Utah call a 'beer.'

Haha - I lived in Germany; it's more common than water there. But there are a lot of other drinks you can get in a bottle

UPDATE: I ended up pulling the engine apart and finding a hole in the crown of an exhaust valve on cyl-1. That seemed to be a good explanation for the high HC count in the exhaust. So I replaced that, did my best to clean off the other valves, cylinder heads, and every other part/bolt pulled off. Because I was that far, I borrowed a cherry picker to pull the crankcase. Pulled pistons, changed rings, and cleaned off the block. Changed all gaskets/seals. Put it all back together. It passed emissions with flying colors (sigh of relief). But a couple new problems:

 

-White smoke around engine - looks like it's coming from the exhaust mani, from connection to heads and just below it along the heat shields (this might have helped my emissions test numbers!!!). Especially passenger side, but a little from driver side too. Exhaust system is pretty rusted - maybe cracked during all the handling? I accidentally dumped some coolant, maybe a little oil down it (especially passenger side). So wondering if this has anything to do with it. But probably just have to break down and buy a new mani/cat.

 

-Oil leak from timing belt area, trail of oil past oil filter to drivers side exhaust mani. I'm guessing this is from the camshaft seal - may not have pushed it in far enough?

 

-Sounds GREAT at idle/coasting, but LOUD ping when accelerating. I'm about to pull everything apart again to see if this is bad contact somewhere. But just wanted others' opinions - what should I check on this? When I first saw the white smoke, I thought it could be coolant leakage at head gasket. Since I reused the head bolts, I tightened them a little to compensate for any stretching. If coolant is in the oil, this could cause clicking from bad lubrication, right? I haven't checked timing (trying to avoid buying tools I'll almost never use, but would be willing if that's suspect). Could this be cam-chatter due to the loose camshaft oil seal?

Thanks in advance. I feel like I'm close to finishing this reincarnation.

You don't need any special tools to check the timing. As long as the timing marks on the crank gear and cam pulleys are lined up correctly you are good. Sometimes they can skip a tooth or two and run rough. Did you replace the exhaust mani gaskets too?

 

When I install a new crank or cam socket I use a large socket to seat it. I have a small oil leak from one of my cam seals since I replaced it. It's not too bad yet so I haven't bothered to replace it. I recently switched to 10w-40 so I am hoping that will help slow the leak. I don't think the cam would chatter from a loose seal, but I don't know.

 

I don't know what that loud ping would be. Does the smoke smell like burning coolant or burning oil? I know that my engine smoked for a while after I rebuilt it.

Thanks as always MP. I just pulled off the heads again. I did replace the exhaust mani gaskets. The mani mating surfaces were pitted from rust - so I sanded them down a little in prep for putting it together again.

Good to know that a rebuild can smoke for a while, and that you're engine hasn't complained too much with a cam seal leak. I discovered a couple things when pulling it apart:

1. the wire spring inside the rubber cam seal was sticking out from the seal, along the camshaft end, it put a thin line of wear on the cam shaft. Will try reseating it again or just using the old seal (if spring is damaged).

2. the head gaskets I bought were significantly cheaper than anything else I saw http://www.discountbodyparts.com/catalog/?N=0&uts=true&events=search&Ntt=REPS312708+

The sealant beads seem to have washed off the gasket surfaces. There was a thin red bead around the outside edge on one side, which is almost completely gone (just a few small specks of it left). The grey wide bead on the other side was not very thick (height) when installed (compared to my original gaskets), and now seems to have been wiped away in a few spots. The head surface is also a worry: I took a putty knife to it, engine degreaser and copper wire brush. It's not warped (within spec from Haynes manual). But it's not perfectly smooth. So I'm guessing I had coolant/oil mixing. The gaskets have a 1 year warranty. But I'm tempted to just pay 50 for FelPro's. Should I do new head bolts, too? ($80 for all 12!)

 

So I'm hoping the ping was either from something to do with the protruding spring (cam sprocket hitting it?) or bad oil lubrication because of the coolant mixing in. Also hoping that it will sound better after this time around, with cam seal re-seating and gasket/bolts replacement.

 

One thing that's bothering me are the timing belt position marks. I took a photo of the crank position before taking the timing belt off for the first time, when the cam sprockets were lined up. With the heads off, I can see the piston positions, and none of them are at TDC when the crank sprocket is line up for timing belt placement. All 4 pistons are about half-way between top and bottom of the cylinders. Does anyone know if this is correct? -should the timing belt be placed on crank/cams with the the 4 pistons in mid-position in the cylinders? (Wondering if my timing is right).

 

Definitely a learning experience. Makes me wonder if everyone has to do a second rebuild right after their very first time doing this...

Another thought - your video on HLA clicking sounds oddly familiar. Mine didn't have much of a click at idle, but sounded like that when revving. I didn't bother to bleed the HLA's first time around, as I tried a couple of them and couldn't get them out of the rocker assy. Any tips on how to get out stuck HLA's?

I would just replace the seal. It's cheap from the dealer. If the cam seal leak is gushing then of course replace it. My leak is just a slow drip.

 

OEM Subaru or Fel-pro head gaskets the best replacement. (It it is a 22T then use Subaru HGs) Getting your heads decked is about $75.

 

Don't worry about TDC. Use the alignment marks, not the piston marks.

 

Subaru techs use the old head bolts. I like to use new head bolts. It's your call.