Clutch pedal issues - troubleshoot

This morning i go to start my car and while i press in the clutch pedal it has its normal resistance about a quarter of the way in and then it kinda makes a pop noise and goes straight to the floor. so i stick my foot under it and pull it out and it goes back to normal place. i pump the clutch about 20 times to test it out and seems to feel about right. I started my car and it drives fine. Now it seems like the pedal has alot more play in it.

any idea of what this is

is there anyway to adjust the point where the clutch engages?


The car (08 lgt) has about 75k on it and i drive like a granny most of the time... drive in I mode averaging 24 mpg

You better start checking the fluid level, or looking for a leak.

You also may want to start looking for a new clutch. Check out the TSK3 throw out bearing kit.

Check with the vendors on here, like m sprank (Mike)
sales@infamousperformance.net

and Mike from www.AZPinstalls.com

or Mike at http://legacygt.com/forums/forumdisp...iance-121.html

Checked fluid levels and just drove the car about 100 miles (and some of it was traffic) Fluid levels were all good.

Can you recommend a clutch to support my mods.... i would imagine ill be in the 320ish whp range when tuned

Current Mods (although not yet tuned to support all of them as i was waiting for FMIC to get a protune from jorge)

Accessport stage 2
Cobb Up
Cobb down
dw 750cc
Walbro 255lph
BNR 18g w/ infamous oil kit

I have an ACT HD-SS with a WRX flywheel. Great clutch, holds well and nice engagement. However I installed a Clutch Masters FX300 clutch in my friends GT with the WRX flywheel. I wish I had gone that route. The clutch is butter smooth and pedal effort is lighter than stock. My ACT has a stiff pedal but it handles more torque than the FX300. I strongly recomend doing the TSK3 throw out bearing also.

Hear lots of good things about FX300.

I have a Spec 2 in the car now with thier LWFW, I had a Spec 2+ in for 85,000+ miles. Replaced it with the spec 2 when I put the new short block in.

I love the Spec 2, feels like stock but grabs better.

Update... just drove about 6 miles to lunch and it was had alot of play in the pedal.

after lunch it seemed to fix itself on the drive back.

any ideas?

keep in mind the clutch isnt slipping at all even if i put it in S# and give it some gas. Its just making for slack in the pedal and harder to shift.

__________________________________________________ _______________________________________________

http://www.infamousperformance.net/s...-Sleeve/Detail

http://www.infamousperformance.net/s...-Clutch/Detail

http://www.infamousperformance.net/s...gacy-GT/Detail

That should take care of any clutch problems im having correct??

Warning about the LWFW, they are noisy and you lose some driveability. My wagon doesn't like being in 5th gear at 40mph. You also gain driveline noise under decel in 3rd & 4th gears.

Find a steel OEM FW.

I would check out the slave cylinder before I jump on a new clutch. Sounds to me like something my be wrong there.

The pedal should not change all of a sudden. Or your TOB is going.

Originally Posted by Max Capacity

Warning about the LWFW, they are noisy and you lose some driveability. My wagon doesn't like being in 5th gear at 40mph. You also gain driveline noise under decel in 3rd & 4th gears.

Find a steel OEM FW.

I would check out the slave cylinder before I jump on a new clutch. Sounds to me like something my be wrong there.

The pedal should not change all of a sudden. Or your TOB is going.

Pardon my ignorance but what's a TOB?

i would deff check the slave , my old bmw had a small leak that only dripped into the bell housing , i never seen fluid at all on the ground till one day the seal totally went blowing fluid everywere. sounds like your slave is on the way out


by TOB he means (throw out bearing )

Throw out bearing.

Update: I believe there is a leak in one of my lines somewhere... i found about a quarters worth of fluid under my car after it sat for the weekend.

Its a small leak, but there is a leak

That's what's I was hinting to above.

Hope its an easy fix.

Let us know.

Perhaps this is kind of obvious, but you def should park it until you figure that out. In other news: the clutch uses the same fluid as the brakes so I would recommend changing the fluid once the clutch issues is solved and then, if you do it yoursef, you'll need a friend who owns and knows how to operate a vacuum kit to get the air bubbles out before the brakes and clutch, will work again. Cheers and God bless!

Sounds like it could also be a slave or master cylinder that also needs replacing.