clutch won't disengage at all, what could it be?

**SSpeed** · #1: 06-13-2012, 05:42 PM

So, I went to the track tonight, I got in one run... first run I grannied out of the hole, shifted from 3rd to 4th and heard a grind, weird...

Pulled up again, first, second, can't get in to 3rd, can't get in to any gear... hit the break down lane...

I've got good clutch pedal feel, but the clutch is not disengaging at all... the slave cylinder is pushing on the fork...

It was a fun ride back home in rush hour traffic let me tell you.. I had to kill the car at every light and use the starter to get moving again, then rev match each gear...

What the heck could have happened?

* Good clutch pedal feel

* Gears seem fine once you get in them

* Slave cylinder is pushing on fork

* Clutch doesn't disengage at all

* If I kill the motor, put it in first, push in the clutch and start the car, the car lurches forward. The clutch is doing nothing despite good pedal feel.

**09anderson** · #2: 06-13-2012, 05:51 PM

Syncroziner maybe... The gears are there but you can't find them without the synchronizer... Hope it's an easy fix for you

**SSpeed** · #3: 06-13-2012, 06:03 PM

I thought that too at first, but the clutch would still disengage then right?...

I have good pedal feel, but pedal to the floor it's like the clutch is not in at all, the car still keeps pulling forward... It's almost like something is wedged between the pressure plate and the flywheel.....

**09anderson** · #4: 06-13-2012, 07:02 PM

My buddy has a mustang that did the same exact thing lol...i know mustang blah but same issue

**SSpeed** · #5: 06-13-2012, 10:30 PM

Bad synchros wouldn't do this right?

"If I kill the motor, put it in first, push in the clutch and start the car, the car lurches forward. The clutch is doing nothing despite good pedal feel."

With bad synchros the clutch would still disengage?

A throwout bearing wouldn't do that either? There is no noise at all, pedal feel is good, it's like something is wedged in there keeping the clutch engaged.

Started yanking it all apart tonight, transmission fluid looked fine.

**SSpeed** · #6: 06-13-2012, 10:42 PM

I think one of the springs may have dislodged and gotten stuck.... found this on another site with the same problem... I'll be pissed if I have to remove the tranny and find this...

**mwiener2** · #7: 06-13-2012, 10:47 PM

You're gonna have to pull the tranny any way you look at it

**SSpeed** · #8: 06-13-2012, 10:49 PM

Yeah, I have it mostly ready to drop right now... I just bought a good clutch so crap like this wouldn't happen, not saying that's what it is yet.... I'll be really frustrated if this is what it is, but I guess it's better than catastrophic damage.

I think I'll dump the ACT Streetlite and do a WRX flywheel while I'm at it.

**eekay** · #9: 06-13-2012, 11:04 PM

I've had this exact same problem before as well. Turned out to be my clutch fork. It broke and I had to rev match everything as well. This was on my way to work though.

**fahr_side** · #**10:** 06-13-2012, 11:21 PM

All you're going to get is guesses, none of which will seen to be wrong or right until you pull the tranny off.
I'm going with broken fork, fork slipped or something else displaced. Useless eh? Just get in there and get 'er done!

**broknindarkagain** · #**11:** 06-13-2012, 11:46 PM

Bent / damaged / broken fork.

**SSpeed** · #**12:** 06-14-2012, 08:59 AM

I have to head to Harbor Freight for their $80 tranny jack first...

I wondered about the bent fork, but I wouldn't have good pedal feel then would I? The pedal almost feels stiffer than normal.

Just guesses, you're right, will post pics when I figure it out...

**Max Capacity** · #**13:** 06-14-2012, 09:27 AM

If you get the $80 jack, make sure you can get the car at least 2ft off the ground. The tranny needs 18" and the jack needs about 6".

I have that jack and did my tranny last year. Twice. I also used the jack for the rear diff. Twice.

I used the 6 ton jack stands because I had them, if you don't, use that moeny to buy the next tranny up in price. It needs less clearance.

**SSpeed** · #**14:** 06-14-2012, 09:30 AM

Thanks for that advice, was wondering how much height I'd need.. 2 feet measured where? 2 feet additional jacked or 2 feet total?

**Max Capacity** · #**15:** 06-14-2012, 09:54 AM

Figure 24" under the lowest part of the frame.

I was able to put the tranny on the jack outside the car then snake it under the engine near the passenger side LCA.

You'll figure it out when it's time.

Also I used a board and a piece of oak flooring to hold the engine tilted back off the radiator fans. The engine wants to fall forward with the tranny off.

Do you have pry bays to pry the tranny off the guide pins, that's the hardest part.

My tranny has been outa number of times so it slide off them easy. If yours has never been out, it can be a PITA.

Also use anti-seize compound on the nuts and bolts going back together.

Spray everything with PB Blaster before try and break them loose.

Before you bolt the tranny up going back in, MAKE SURE the CLUTCH FORK is still up high on the PIVOT ball. Trust me on that one...