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#1:
01-02-2013, 12:20 PM
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clunking in steering component
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Title: Junior Member
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Location: Southwest
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Car: 1997 Legacy GT
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Posts: 56
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iTrader: (0)
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I'm getting a clunking somewhere in the front driver side area. I changed the struts and end links which helped and those where definitely blown, but there is still a clunk. I'm thinking it's either the inner tie rod or the steering rack itself. Also the bellows boots are torn as well. Basically I jacked the car up and there is play in the wheel when wiggling it in and out horizontally, zero play when pushing and pulling top and bottom of the tire though. When I try to wiggle the inner tie rod by hand I'm not noticing any play on the inner tie rod joint that I can tell, although the rubber covers are making it hard to get a close look. What I did notice though is when I put pressure where the inner tie rod meets the steering rack the shaft in the steering rack has a bit of play. So I'm wondering if the inner tie rod could just be loose where it connects to the rack, and I should first try replacing the inner tie rod and of course the bellows boots and go from there. Or does this sound like the steering rack is going bad. Also the rack doesnt seem to be leaking there is just a bit of grease in the area where the covers are broken.
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#2:
01-02-2013, 05:13 PM
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Title: Burning Monkey
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Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
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Car: 95 BK, 93 SS!
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Posts: 3,537
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iTrader: (2)
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I'd check your ball joint while you are at it. Mine would clunk when I hit a bump when it was bad.
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#3:
01-04-2013, 11:29 AM
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Title: Junior Member
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Location: Southwest
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Car: 1997 Legacy GT
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Posts: 56
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iTrader: (0)
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When you decided to replace you ball joint, was is showing signs of being bad when you did the common tests for them or did you just decide to replace it from a hunch.
On mine a bad ball joint seems to be possible, I put a bar under the tire and lifted up and with a lot of pressure I would get what could be the clunk I'm hearing. I'm just wondering if they can go bad without any of the typical signs through common tests for them.
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#4:
01-04-2013, 09:30 PM
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Title: Burning Monkey
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Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
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Car: 95 BK, 93 SS!
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Posts: 3,537
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iTrader: (2)
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I didn't pass inspection. The tech was wiggling the tire back and forth and there was play so he didn't pass me. But the clunk was bothering me and I didn't know where it was coming from. When I wiggled the wheel back and forth I could feel it so I figured that was the best place to start. It was hard to get out. I tried whacking it, and using a puller I rented from the parts store but it couldn't get a good bite and would slip off.
So I bought a ball joint separator for $55. It worked great! I love it. It was expensive but a well made tool. I'm sure I'll use it again someday. You can get cheaper ones at Harbor Freight for $17.
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#5:
01-04-2013, 10:03 PM
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Title: Burning Monkey
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Location: Pinehurst, NC
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Car: 99 OBL, 04 Accord EX 6MT coupe
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Posts: 2,149
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iTrader: (1)
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It's not the ball joint. It wouldn't cause that kind of play. This issue is an internal rack gear issue. I have the same problem with my car. If you take the steering wheel and shift it back and forth short, quick, and consistently you will here the clunk. I'm not sure if it's a worn input gear or a worn rail that's causing the problem. It could be both, but you won't know unless you take it off.
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#6:
01-04-2013, 11:24 PM
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Title: Contributor
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Location: Milwaukee
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Car: 99 Legacy 2.5GT Toyota Supra 2jz/R154
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Posts: 470
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iTrader: (0)
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It's either the inner or outer tie rods. Just replace them both on both sides cuz if ones worn and they never been touched then the other ones will soon follow. Since you need to replace the rack bellows and you'll need an alignment its better to replace all four. GL.
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#7:
01-05-2013, 11:31 AM
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Title: Junior Member
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Location: Southwest
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Car: 1997 Legacy GT
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Posts: 56
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iTrader: (0)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kennyfvholla
It's not the ball joint. It wouldn't cause that kind of play. This issue is an internal rack gear issue. I have the same problem with my car. If you take the steering wheel and shift it back and forth short, quick, and consistently you will here the clunk. I'm not sure if it's a worn input gear or a worn rail that's causing the problem. It could be both, but you won't know unless you take it off.
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I'm thinking this is it. When I get under the car the only part I can shake by hand and get play is the shaft that sticks out on each side of the rack that the inner tie rod connects to. This area on the drivers side is where I'm getting some play, when I shake the same area on the passenger side there is zero play. It doesn't seem to be the tie rod, but I'm thinking of just replacing it anyway before jumping to conclusions on replacing the rack.
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#8:
01-05-2013, 11:42 AM
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Title: Senior Monkey
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Location: Blacksburg, VA
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Car: 1998 Subaru Legacy Outback Limited
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Posts: 1,844
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iTrader: (0)
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I think I might have the same issue. It's odd, because everything seems solid and tight in the steering, and there is no obvious play in the steering wheel. Going over bumps most of the time doesn't do it, but a quick series of undulations or vibrations that shimmy the wheel back and forth can produce a clunking coming from somewhere between the rack and the steering wheel itself that sounds like a loose universal joint or something. I want to track it down, but it's not as easy as turning the wheel back and forth and listening, because it happens so infrequently.
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#9:
01-21-2013, 04:33 PM
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Title: Member
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Location: Northern California
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Car: 97 Legacy Outback
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Posts: 101
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iTrader: (0)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stang70Fastback
I think I might have the same issue. It's odd, because everything seems solid and tight in the steering, and there is no obvious play in the steering wheel. Going over bumps most of the time doesn't do it, but a quick series of undulations or vibrations that shimmy the wheel back and forth can produce a clunking coming from somewhere between the rack and the steering wheel itself that sounds like a loose universal joint or something. I want to track it down, but it's not as easy as turning the wheel back and forth and listening, because it happens so infrequently.
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I just recently had this same problem on my 97 OB, tighten the bolt that holds the universal joint that connects from the steering rack to the steering column. The top one was a bit loose on mine causing the clunking sound, but might as well tighten the lower one as well. Problem will be gone with a 10mm socket and 5 minutes of elbow grease.
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#10:
01-21-2013, 04:41 PM
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Title: Member
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Location: Northern California
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Car: 97 Legacy Outback
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Posts: 101
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iTrader: (0)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kennyfvholla
It's not the ball joint. It wouldn't cause that kind of play. This issue is an internal rack gear issue. I have the same problem with my car. If you take the steering wheel and shift it back and forth short, quick, and consistently you will here the clunk. I'm not sure if it's a worn input gear or a worn rail that's causing the problem. It could be both, but you won't know unless you take it off.
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Its not the rack, tighten the bolts on the universal joint that connects the rack to the steering column and the problem will be gone. The upper bolt is usually the loose one.
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#11:
01-21-2013, 05:48 PM
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Title: Junior Member
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Location: Southwest
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Car: 1997 Legacy GT
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Posts: 56
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iTrader: (0)
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I'll try this out, I was just about to buy a rack since I found a place that sells them used. Mine does have a leak and a mechanic confirmed it although the leak seems very minor. The main problem that my steering rack has, like mentioned above is the shaft that is inside the rack seems to have some play right where it comes out on the drivers side and connects to the inner tie rod. When I'm actually driving the car not only is my steering wheel slightly crooked when going straight, it seems that taking turns in one direction is less responsive then the other.
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#12:
01-21-2013, 05:54 PM
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Title: Member
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Location: Northern California
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Car: 97 Legacy Outback
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Posts: 101
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iTrader: (0)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brokentv
I'll try this out, I was just about to buy a rack since I found a place that sells them used. Mine does have a leak and a mechanic confirmed it although the leak seems very minor. The main problem that my steering rack has, like mentioned above is the shaft that is inside the rack seems to have some play right where it comes out on the drivers side and connects to the inner tie rod. When I'm actually driving the car not only is my steering wheel slightly crooked when going straight, it seems that taking turns in one direction is less responsive then the other.
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Aside from your rack issue at least this will fix the clunk you re getting... Just take em one thing at a time lol, but yeah it sounds like its time for a new rack but enjoy the relief of no clunk noise!!
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#13:
01-22-2013, 03:20 PM
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Title: Member
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Location: Northern California
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Car: 97 Legacy Outback
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Posts: 101
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iTrader: (0)
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Curious if you tried tightening that bolt yet?
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#14:
01-22-2013, 05:29 PM
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Title: Senior Monkey
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Location: Blacksburg, VA
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Car: 1998 Subaru Legacy Outback Limited
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Posts: 1,844
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iTrader: (0)
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I'm waiting for it to not be -10 degrees outside with the wind chill to get under the car and try that. I will definitely report back, it just might be a while, lol.
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#15:
01-22-2013, 05:38 PM
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Title: Member
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Location: Northern California
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Car: 97 Legacy Outback
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Posts: 101
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iTrader: (0)
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Lol no worries, that would be too cold for me also! The top of the universal joint where it meets the steering column is just under the brake booster so you can get the top bolt from up top easily, and the bottom bolt is also accessible from the top... just a bit further of a reach lol. Its in the 50s here, and 30s at night and im still freezin
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