I believe the way to correctly center the wheel a small amount is to do it with the tie rods. Adjust each side the same number of turns to move both wheels to point in the same direction the steering wheel is pointed (this won't change the toe of the wheels in respect to one another). Then when you center the steering wheel it brings the car wheels back to the straight ahead direction. I think removing the steering wheel and moving one spline on the column might be too much of a change for some cases.
It is still ugly.