I'm installing my first gauge of any sort, and I have been searching for the exact info I need but have not been able to find it in one place. There also seem to be multiple methods for installation, below is what I thought was best and easiest.
You will need the gauge
, the cubby pod
, and the vacuum tubing that comes with the gauge seems crappy, go buy 7-10 feet of 5/32" vacuum tubing from your local auto parts store, it only cost me around 90 cents per foot. You also need some basic shop tools and cable ties.
The cubby pod comes with detailed instructions for removing your center cubby panel and installing the pod, that part is easy, I'm not going to bother reproducing it.
I followed johnAWD's instructions
for routing the vacuum tube through the fender, but deviated from there. If you have an auto tranny there is a wide open grommet in the engine bay where the clutch master cylinder would go, but with a manual tranny I found the fender route was best.
After reading this thread
I decided to follow m sprank's advice and tee off of the MAP sensor. This is why you need at least 7 feet of vacuum tubing.
I installed the vacuum line filter and boost sensor inside of the interior fuse box. Here's a shot
with the side panel removed. It's not rocket surgery, just tuck it inside. To fish the cable to go between the sensor and gauge I stripped a couple feet of Romex and used one of the 12AWG wires to fish between the fuse box and cubby opening.
Now, for the part that I had the most trouble figuring out... the wiring.
The main thing that threw me off was this thread
First of all, nobody ever says where to connect the orange wire for dimming when headlights are on.
Second of all, it is suggested that the white wire be connected to Fuse #26 for the power windows so that the gauge won't activate until the ignition is "On".
I studied the FSM and came up with my own assumptions, and I confirmed them with a multimeter. I made my own diagram for the clock connector:
The difference between pins 8 and 9 is that 8 does not receive voltage until the ignition is on, which is the same as the power windows using Fuse #26. Pin 1 does not receive voltage until the headlights are turned on (not DRLs) which would tell the gauge to dim at night.
So, all of the wires you have to tap into are in the same bundle going to your clock. I believe all electric Prosport gauges use the same basic wiring scheme, so this should work for any of them.
To connect the Prosport gauge's wires to the clock harness I used some quick splice connectors which look like this
. You can buy them at your local hardware store but if you look around online you can get more for less money. Now, the PITA part is that the smallest they make these splice connectors is 18-22AWG which I found too big for the Prosport gauge's wires, and on top of that Prosport only gives you an inch or so of wire to work with. I soldered some 6" lengths of 18AWG wire from a computer power supply to the Prosport harness to make my life much easier. I forgot to take a picture of that, sorry
Here's the gauge mounted in the pod. I still haven't figured out where/how I'm going to mount the control panel, I suppose I will have to drill a hole through the pod panel to feed the wires through. Anyway, not a big deal.
If anyone wants to verify the functionality of the gauge regarding the key positions, check out this quick video I uploaded here:
I hope this helps somebody out and saves them a lot of time. I spent 5 times longer planning this all out than actually doing the install.
I'm going to attach all of these images below in case imgur ever dies.