2.5GT Turbo Oil Supply Banjo Bolt Filter Removal

I added this as a sticky with only the how to portion http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62371

After much discussion, it turns out that there are TWO filters inside of the banjo bolts that are at the entrance to the oil feed pipes - one on the driver's side that goes to the AVCS solenoid and one on the passenger's side that feeds the AVCS solenoid and the turbo oil feed.

Towards the end of this post http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showt...=58023&page=19 people discussed accessing this bolt for cleaning the filter and/or replacing it. Someone posted a great idea and I decided to consolidate the procedure in one post.

I removed the Bolt, removed the filter and put it all back together in about 30 minutes. Turns out that it is not hard to do at all. I didn't have time to try to tackle the driver's side bolt, but that one is of less concern.

Tools -

10mm wrench or 1/4" drive socket
14mm deep socket
14mm regular socket
Universal joint for the 14mm regular socket
17mm shorty wrench
Magnetic pick up (you are going to need it)

Make sure the engine is cold - you will be very intimate with portions of it.

Steps:

1. Remove the engine cover
2. Remove one of the heat shield bolts as shown in the picture
3. Remove the nut from the stud as shown in the picture
4. Remove the bolt from the bracket as shown in the picture. This is the hardest part because you can't get a good angle at it. Use the u-joint.
5. Remove the bracket itself
6. Remove the Banjo bolt. Use the 17mm shorty and take your time. Be careful with the washers and not that a few drops of oil WILL leak out onto the up-pipe.
7. Remove the filter. Be careful or you will break it.
8. Install the banjo bolt and washers. Do not overtighten.
9. Replace everything else.

Depending on your turbo and wastegate actuator the job might be easier or harder.

My filter had absolutely nothing in it (22k miles).

The car seems to drive much better, plus I am now richer AND better looking In fact several ladies approached me right after I completed the job - interesting.....

The pictures are the best I could do. The are is very hard to see, let alone photograph.

I bet I could do another one in around 20m minutes; NC crew I WILL be charging for this - no freebies.

I hope this helps people.

Nice...I may have to take a look at this, anything that can make the car run better and help with the ladies is alright by me.

Really though, is there any consensus as to why these would get plugged to begin with? If yours was clean after 22k it makes you wonder. All these blown engines are starting to make me rethink the mod path...would just like to get a little warm and fuzzy back.

Do you accept debit cards, Rob?

Originally Posted by DeepFreeze2

Do you accept debit cards, Rob?

If you have a debit card you should be able to come up with cash

As to why or if the filters get clogged up - got me. My car hasn't been stock for most of those miles. I change the oil every 3 months with whatever 5w30 is on sale (i did use synthetic for a few changes but stopped).

I am a new 2007 Legacy GT owner and am not very mechanically savvy, but am wondering what necessitated this type of repair? Were you replacing some type of turbo filter?

Thanks.

:subscribe:

you say that there was nothing in the bolt/filter but after you replaced it, you felt a difference? that dosent make much sense.

Originally Posted by rao

If you have a debit card you should be able to come up with cash

As to why or if the filters get clogged up - got me. My car hasn't been stock for most of those miles. I change the oil every 3 months with whatever 5w30 is on sale (i did use synthetic for a few changes but stopped).

I thought that it wasn't a good idea to go back once you go to SYNTHETIC.

Originally Posted by G.T.Subie

I thought that it wasn't a good idea to go back once you go to SYNTHETIC.

Please MY CAR IS DOOMED

Originally Posted by whitetiger

you say that there was nothing in the bolt/filter but after you replaced it, you felt a difference? that dosent make much sense.

I also said I was richer and better looking. I was kidding. There is no way you could perceive any difference.

Hey I was asking a serious question.
Just trying to educate myself.
<<<<Noob

Originally Posted by rao

I also said I was richer and better looking. I was kidding. There is no way you could perceive any difference.

oh, i thought you were serious about the running better part and then sarcastic about the other stuff.

how fine does the filter in the bolts look? is it just a screen mesh or somthing more?

rao, how many miles do you normally drive in 3 months? If the miles/OCI is low, we need to compare the filter to someone who has done extended OCI's for awhile. edmundu comes to mind...

Originally Posted by G.T.Subie

Hey I was asking a serious question.
Just trying to educate myself.
<<<<Noob

I apologize; I got 2 messages mixed up.

There is a school of thought that you can't change back once you use synthetic oil, there is another school of thought that it doesn't matter. There is some merit to the idea that you shouldn't change to synthetic on a motor that has a lot of miles on it (like over 85k) because it might cause leaks due to changes in the seals. The key is to use oil that is properly rated and to change it at the right intervals, don't get hung up on the brand.

Originally Posted by whitetiger

oh, i thought you were serious about the running better part and then sarcastic about the other stuff.

how fine does the filter in the bolts look? is it just a screen mesh or somthing more?

Well I am better looking

It is very fine screen mesh.

Originally Posted by direavenger

rao, how many miles do you normally drive in 3 months? If the miles/OCI is low, we need to compare the filter to someone who has done extended OCI's for awhile. edmundu comes to mind...

Not many - typically 2-3k miles. I just always change it every 3 months.