Working with an 06 5mt GT on Friday replacing the OEM clutch (I'm assuming) at 95k. I bought the car with 76k on it and from my understanding from doing all the labor on it since purchase, it was not stock throughout its past life. The reason for replacement is the TOB is making its death knell noise, so I want to replace it before it seizes and grenades my trans snout. I think the clutch also slipped once last week, but I'm not entirely sure.
A coworker got me setup with his hookups on parts so I got myself screaming deals on:
- OEM 06+ WRX SMFW
- OEM 06+ flywheel bolts (8)
- Extra-S (4qt)
- T-70 Torx for trans
- T-50 Torx "Plus" for OEM 05/06 LGT flywheel bolts
- Clutch Masters FX250 kit
About the clutch: I called Clutch Masters directly and was assured that the FX250 is what I want/need. I was told it is rated for 70% above stock which works out to about 425tq crank. That's about what a VF52 will do balls out (I plan to tune conservatively considering it's my DD) and that's my plan when/if my VF40 goes. The 350 is rated for 110% over stock or 525tq crank which in my opinion, is far too much clutch. There's only so much torque available at normal engagement (such as in traffic or at lights) and the more aggressive 350 would not slip enough to allow for smooth engagement. Word on the street is that aftermarket clutches are also underrated by 15-20% which doesn't mean I'm going to intentionally make more power than its rated for, but that I feel safer there's a little wiggle room above my power goals.
I know there are people claiming they make 330whp/tq on a VF52, but I'm betting that was on a DynoJet which are known to read high. I have a baseline of 231hp/233tq on a Cobb OTS stage 2 map with a full 3" exhaust and Cobb intake with 70F ambient on a SuperFlow AWD chassis dyno regarded as the most accurate out there. I have a hard time believing an OEM upgrade turbo can give me 50% more power at the wheels with an appropriate tune.
Things I'm concerned about:
In the past week or so, my TOB has started making MUCH more noise than previously. It's got me thinking about the trans snout. I know everyone (well, vast majority) just say "Slam a TSK3 kit on there and button 'er up" but I'd rather not buy parts if I don't need them. I elected not to get it considering it's an extra $150+ I might not need on top of it being a weaker TOB. My clutch pedal feels smooth both with the car running and off. It makes squeaking noise within the pedal box, but it moves consistently which makes me think the snout is not scored/galled.
How many of you have actually needed
the TSK3 kit?
What type of grease do you put on the snout before putting the TOB on? I know I only need a thin film, but is there any preferred type?
I already know about putting anti-seize on the mating surfaces (engine/trans) and the dowel pins when mating it back together. I also know to pay attention to turbo clearance but it should be fine because the turbo hasn't been removed/replaced to my knowledge. I refuse
to put anti-seize on any of the clutch and flywheel bolts because not only does it make it easier for them to back out, but it makes it easier for them to be over-tightened (lubes the threads).
I have watched the Scruit put up in the stickied thread a couple times. Is there any thing he missed or needs elaboration? I noticed he didn't really show disconnecting the shifter linkage - is that self-explanatory as soon as I see it or is there a "best" way to do that to ensure it doesn't come out of adjustment?