I've never had a car with TPM before so I'm not interested in spending $65 or more a piece on a sensor or sensors in order to get rid of the LED on the dash. Who knows how many actually need to be replaced. It should show the pressure in each tire or at least show the low tire or tires that are low in order to have a better idea of what to replace. I didn't plan on a write-up but after everything I figured I would make one with at least text and one pic.
Anyway, I pulled the gauge cluster out of my '08 LGT and resolved the issue pretty simply. I read that the needles shouldn't be pulled on our cluster so I thought I was stuck but I just tipped the side of the plastic face of the cluster and placed a strip of electric tape over the back of it to cover it so that the LED light can't hit it.
Give it a try but be careful because I can't help if you break something doing this...and whatever the usual disclaimers are exactly.
Phillips Screwdriver - Short and fat
Phillips Screwdriver - Long and fat
Flat Head Screwdriver - Short and thin
Flat Head Screwdriver - Short and thin
Socket - 10mm
1) Remove the negative terminal from the battery
2) Remove the kick panel under the driver's side dash. This is done by removing three clips on the front edge where the upper part of the dash with the buttons and fuse cover meet the kick panel underneath. you will also need to tilt the right side down in order to remove the OBDII socket from it. It has 2 Phillips screws holding it in. Also, you will need to lift the right side up as well to get the tab on the left side over the rocker cover panel that goes under the hood release.
3) There is a Phillips screw on the right side where the kick panel meets the dash. Once that's removed the rest of the lower dash piece comes off by pulling and popping it out because it's all pop clips from that point forward. I usually pull the fuse cover door down and then use it to pull away from the dash and then on the right side on the part next to the steering column cover. The controls on the left side have three plugs that need to be removed to full remove the lower dash piece. The tab to release the top one is facing away from the center of the car. The second and third are facing up.
4) At this point you will need the long and short Phillips screw drivers. There are two screws under the dash and then one screw in the middle of the gauge cluster above the Parking Lights toggle switch on the steering column. I'm sorry I didn't get picks of the screws under the dash. They are up in there kind of deep. There are black and white pieces of plastic sandwiched under the screws so that you know you're unscrewing the right ones. They are typical size and length for most of the screws in the car.
5) There are two clips behind the cluster that need to be removed. The tabs are on top of the plugs and they are near the top of the cluster parallel from each other. I started with the plug on the left because I have fat hands and couldn't get my hand properly behind the right side to get any leverage to push the clip down. The cluster needs to be tilted forward so that the clear plastic shield is facing down toward the Parking Lights toggle switch. Slide and wiggle to the right and slide it to the right to get it out.
6) I went inside with the cluster and put it on a towel that was folded over twice and under the cabinet lights. I used two small flat head screwdrivers to get the clips lifted to get the plastic face off and then the back off of the cluster. This was done when I thought I was going to pull the needles but found that I didn't need to do that and that it is not good to do our cluster.
7) Be very careful with these clips as they can break on you pretty easily so don't test their tensile strength with hard aggressive moves, just be delicate and slow. I started on the top curved part to get the clips off because after they were slipped over the tabs that they wouldn't snap back behind the tabs like they did on the bottom. This is the same for both sets. The screw drivers I had were tiny but not the kind you would use on glasses. I slid one under the lip of the plastic and turned it so that the blade was on its side to lift it slightly and then used the other to push the entire housing in the opposite direction. In between each clip I would place the second screwdriver in to keep the clip I just opened from snapping back. Once I moved onto the next one I would use one of my fingers in the gap between the two housings to keep them apart.
8) The main board won't slide out because the gauge needles get caught on the cluster face but it does wiggle around a little. What I did at this point was to just bend the corner up where the TPM LED is located and applied the electric tape with the gauge needles facing the ground. This let me slide it directly over the translucent cutout for the TPM icon. It was one piece that I pressed tightly a few times with my fingers. The face bends a good deal so I just bent it until I could slide my finger under and get a nice press on the tape. I trimmed the slight edge of tape sticking out.
9) I had to use window cleaner to get some fuzz off of the backside of the clear plastic before reassembly. Slide on the back cover to the cluster and then line up the tripmeter stem with the hole in the clear plastic face and then slide it down and make sure the clips are on properly and lay flat.
10) Install the cluster back in the way it was removed. I installed the top screw a bit so that it would keep the top holes lined up. Next, it was the horrible part. Trying to install the screws up into the cluster from the bottom was bad. It seemed like it should be part of the turbo inlet install because it sucked so bad. Wear glasses and keep your mouth shut. The screws bounce all over like Plinko. For the left side underneath screw I snaked my hand toward the back of the car, around the metal "hoop" and then up with the screw in my hand. I used two fingers to hold it with the screwdriver placed into the screw so I had three points of pressure. I slowly guided this into the hole and got it after a bunch of tries and swearing. The right hand side one there is no place to snake your hand up so I just kept going slowly and balancing it. I hit it after 2 or 3 tries and immediately thanked God, literally.
11) After this the rest of the rest is easy to install in the reverse.
12) Reconnect negative battery terminal.
13) The Parking Light switch was down and I didn't realize it so I couldn't figure out why those lights were on no matter what I did to the stalks on the steering column. After turning it off and turning on the ignition all was well.
I haven't driven the car around yet since it's cold and I wanted to get this done while all of it was fresh in my mind. The one pic I thought to take was of the bending of the gauge face plate.