Newbie Question: Should I warm up my lgt?

I currently do it, but I heard that there is really no reason to warm up newer cars for so and so reasons... It'd be great to know, once and for all, if I'm wasting my 3 minutes every morning.

No problem starting to drive modern cars as long as you take it easy on it before it's warm.

 

If you live in the snow belt the problem is self-solving, since you begin with starting the car, then remove snow/ice from the windows and when you get seated the engine is warm enough for careful driving.

 

And from now on I will expect all kind of comments to this, not all of them serious!

depends on how cold it is. Here in Colorado yes you need the car to warm up at least 2-3 min. then drive under 3 k until temp gage goes to midway.

No, you should not. You're not only wasting the time, but also gas, and putting extra wear on the engine. Idling is actually pretty hard on the engine, more so cold idling. The car will come up to the operating temperature much faster while driving. Plus engine is not the only component that needs to come up to the operating temperature - there are also transmission, differential(s), wheel bearings, cv joints, etc.

 

In winter I let the car warm up maybe 10-30 seconds depending on how cold it is. In summer 5 seconds will do - just to get the oil circulating. Then drive gently keeping rpm under 3k and staying out of boost until the oil reaches working temp. Usually takes 10-15 minutes in winter. If you don't have oil temp gauge, a good rule of thumb is wait until 5-10 minutes after the coolant temp reaches the normal level.

depends on how cold it is. Here in Colorado yes you need the car to warm up at least 2-3 min. then drive under 3 k until temp gage goes to midway.

 

False and false.

And don't you need to de-ice the windows in Colorado?

And don't you need to de-ice the windows in Colorado?

 

I would guess not if you have a garage...

My warm-up procedure:

 

1. turn on car

2. leave

3. wait to go WOT till after engine comes to temp

I get all kinda answers, from fuel injections to the different expansion rates of your cylinders in the cold ... etc.

 

well here's something quick facts from Canada's Clean Air Online website. Hope it helps.

 

It appears unclemat is right.

 

http://www.ec.gc.ca/cleanair-airpur/Facts-WS2309FEF9-1_En.htm#roadfacts

 

Decreasing your highway cruising speed from 120 to 90km/hr will decrease fuel consumption by about 20%.

•Tests show that rapid starts and hard braking reduce travel time by only 4%. However, fuel consumption increases by 39% and emissions of toxic air pollutants are more than five times higher.

•An idling engine releases twice as many exhaust fumes than a vehicle in motion.

•If every driver in Canada avoided idling for 5 minutes a day, we could prevent 1.6 million tonnes of carbon dioxide from being emitted.

•No more than 30 seconds of idling is needed for oil to circulate through your engine. Many components, such as the wheel bearings, tires and suspension system will only warm up once the vehicle is moving.

•Restarting your car many times has little impact on engine components, adding only around $10 per year to the cost of driving, money that is recovered in fuel savings.

•Ten seconds of idling uses more fuel than restarting the engine.

•Idling can damage your engine since it is not operating at its peak temperature where fuel is completely burned. Fuel residue from incomplete burning can damage engine parts.

•Idling a vehicle for 10 minutes a day uses an average of 100 litres of gas a year. If gas costs 70 cents a litre, you will save $70 per year, just by turning your key.

•During the winter, Canadians idle their vehicles for a combined total of 75 million minutes/day. This is equal to a vehicle idling for 144 years. Although we idle our vehicles about 40% less in summer, we still waste an enormous amount of fuel and money.

•A block heater warms the oil and engine coolant, making it easier to start your vehicle and improving winter fuel economy by as much as 10%.

•Using your air conditioner in stop-and-go traffic can increase fuel consumption by as much as 20%.

Waste of time for vehicles sake for anything fuel injected and computer run.

 

However for heater comfort(wife does it), safety(windows defogged), or simply stubborn habit a valid reason.

 

The vehicle could absolutely care less.

 

Just drive easy <3k rpm until the vehicle warms up(heater starts blowing).

It appears unclemat is right.

 

Of course

 

And, yeah, idling causes fuel dilution, cold idling ten fold. Unburnt fuel gets into oil, and fuel is extremely bad lubricant.

My warm-up procedure:

 

1. turn on car

2. leave

3. wait to go WOT till after engine comes to temp

 

Coolant reaching working temperature DOES NOT EQUAL oil or engine parts reaching working temperature :spin:

http://www.ec.gc.ca/cleanair-airpur/Facts-WS2309FEF9-1_En.htm#roadfacts

You're going to use a tree-hugger website to determine how to drive/warm up your car? Lol, to each his own I suppose.

 

Random fact for anyone curious without an oil temp gauge: the blue coolant cold light (at least on 08's) goes off when the oil is between 100-110 degrees Fahrenheit.

No need to warm the car up for the engine's sake, but for personal preference, a lot of people seem to like warm cars. Just wait to punch the gas and push the engine until you're at a normal operating temp. And if you have the 5EAT, you'll want to make sure your ATF is warmed up before pushing the tranny too hard.

My morning routine in the winter (I don't have garage space for my LGT) is to turn the car on, crank the defroster, scrape the ice/clear the snow off the windows and drive off. Usually only takes a minute or two to clear the car depending on how thick the frost is. I try to keep it under 3k rpms until my car is at least above the second thick line toward the bottom of the temp gauge.

Just a note on the temp gauge, it is damn near useless and FAR from being linear.

First off keep in mind it measures coolant temp, not oil temp.

Second, when the needle it is at the first marker where the line is interrupted, the temp is somewhere between 140 and 160 or so. When it is at it's normal point it is anywhere between 185 and 200, depending on driving conditions. Starting to see how it is just really a glorified idiot light? On the newer Subarus they have completely done away with it and it has been replaced by a light which changes color according to the engine temp.

Letting the car idle minutes on end has an adverse effect on the oil, especially on our fuel dillution-prone Boxer motors. You'll end up with fuel dillution and sheared motor oil. Warming up the motor by idling it also actually takes longer for it to warm up, which means it runs for longer at cold temps.

Hello, I've had my '06 LGT (manual) for 2 months now. I've perused this forum a bit and this a topic I'm interested in.

 

I've noticed that when I start the car, it runs at about 1.5k RPMS. If I give a couple minutes or so, it'll come down on its own, closer to 1k. I noticed that if I tap the throttle, the idle will at least start to come down but might go back up to 1.5k. I usually give it a minute before I go.

 

So I guess the consensus is that it's really not necessary? I also have a '06 Mustang GT. When I was in NY, it would idle at about 1.25k for about 4 minutes when it was about in the 30's or colder. I figured I needed to let it do that. So again, it isn't necessary!?

 

I hope to use this forum as a main resource for my LGT. Looks like you guys have a good thing going here!

I remember reading automobile advice a long time ago as a teenager and the advice was always to not idle the engine to warm it up but instead to drive away immediately and gently for fastest warmup and least harm to the engine. I don't see any need to alter that.

On the newer Subarus they have completely done away with it and it has been replaced by a light which changes color according to the engine temp.

 

There is a little blue light, but it goes off when you reach the bottom of the coolant temp gauge, where you suggested was the 140-160 range. It is somewhat smarter and probably safer. With the SI drive, it won't let you use the s# if the blue light is on. So, it is a little safer for the engine. But I still judge based on shift feel (I use the sport shift on my 5EAT) you can tell when the engine is cold and shift responses are delayed.

 

I'll take and upload a picture of what I mean later today. It's plenty cold so I'll have the blue light. The OP drives an 08 as well, so maybe it'll help a bit.

I am waiting for teh diesel to get to the U.S. and I will let mine run all winter just like a Peterbilt.

But I still judge based on shift feel (I use the sport shift on my 5EAT) you can tell when the engine is cold and shift responses are delayed.

Know that the 5EAT alters the shifting behavior based on the temperature of the transmission fluid moreso than engine temperature.

I am waiting for teh diesel to get to the U.S. and I will let mine run all winter just like a Peterbilt.

 

Very stupid thing to do. I was once very close to pulling keys out of some redneck's pickup and throwing them in bushes. Would teach the tard to not do it.

you guys do what you want and read. I will keep my car warming up 1-3 min in the am. ever try starting a car in negative #'s every morning for 4 months and then try to drive off, it dosn't work that way.

Mustang - At -5 F, a 1 minute idle time is fine (given good visibility). I'm guessing you are running a 0w or 5w engine oil. At those temps, it'll hit every part of the engine within 15-30 seconds.

 

Anything over that and you are just being harder on your engine than needed.

 

My wife routinely idles her car for 3-5 minutes on 20 degree mornings. I don't condone it, but I understand and I change the oil myself. I also know that she follows up that idle with a 45 minute continuous drive, so she's burning the fuel off (and moisture).

 

If you are idling for 3-5 minutes and then driving only for another 5-10 minutes, and you repeat that day in and day out...well, that's when it gets really hairy for your engine.

you guys do what you want and read. I will keep my car warming up 1-3 min in the am. ever try starting a car in negative #'s every morning for 4 months and then try to drive off, it dosn't work that way.

 

It won't drive?

 

Mustang - At -5 F, a 1 minute idle time is fine (given good visibility). I'm guessing you are running a 0w or 5w engine oil. At those temps, it'll hit every part of the engine within 15-30 seconds.

 

Anything over that and you are just being harder on your engine than needed.

 

My wife routinely idles her car for 3-5 minutes on 20 degree mornings. I don't condone it, but I understand and I change the oil myself. I also know that she follows up that idle with a 45 minute continuous drive, so she's burning the fuel off (and moisture).

 

If you are idling for 3-5 minutes and then driving only for another 5-10 minutes, and you repeat that day in and day out...well, that's when it gets really hairy for your engine.

 

 

Good point there Joe about getting the oil hot enough. If I'm home I normally start it up, let it roll down the driveway, into the street. Put it in 1st then 2nd just past the neighbors house and roll to the stop sign 2/10 mile down the street. At the GF's I'll let it defrost the windshild a bit then drive off. Both drives are at least 30 minutes to work. Most of it Highway. 120,300 miles runs fine.

 

edit,

Oh yea, Leaving work in the afternoon it's start up, idle for a couple of seconds. Roll though the parking lot, wait in the short line at the stop sign, roll down the hill to the on ramp, get on the highway merge with traffic at 65mph, may be 3 minutes total.