I just feel this is necessary.
Your package is not complete. Go to the store and buy several 7/8-5/16 range worm clamps. Get one sized to fit the oem recirc hose, as well. Pick up a bottle of rubbing alcohol (to ease the job and maybe for the scraped knuckles you will incur). You may want to pick up a length of 1/2" (or slightly larger) pcv hose just to be on the safe side (not really needed, as the 1/2" hose included in your kit will juuuust make it if you get it right -- if you don't have a spare car, spend the 5 bucks now, and return item later).
For the inlet job itself, you'll need:
- a good-handled, not too sharp, flathead.
- 12mm socket (a small extension helps).
- vice grips.
- needle nose.
- electric tape -- go with the good stuff; it's going to see some heat.
- mech gloves -- not optional.
- sharp blade.
- to know that your engine cover doesn't fit after this
- faith -- i'm not kidding, it will seem impossible at least once.
- holy water, bible (okay, now I'm kidding
The directions are at best a mere compass for your own common sense; but follow them. The omissions of detail almost make it seem as though they were written by a sadist who is secretly now watching with glee from the bushes at your surprises and frustration; just know that they are good for order of ops and don't really contain outright lies if interpeted loosely. I guess the discaimer at the beginning about professional mechanics, service manuals and oem specialty tools clears Perrin's conscience
Fact is, while this install is a bit challenging, with a GOOD set of instructions, it would be much easier for a first-timer.
It is a VERY good idea to study the service manual if you are unfamiliar with the PCV system and vac routing, but that alone won't save you from some pitfalls.
- The diagrams are just that; measure your actual splicing in real life
- The 1/2" hose is just long enough, so measure your cut on the vent hose (where the kit's included plastic 'tee' will go) very carefully; it will be closer to the hard "y" pcv pipe than you may imagine. Use your purchased longer length pcv hose if you wish a less stressful step here; if you bought a slightly larger diameter than 1/2", be sure to take up the slack with clamps.
- Subaru blessed us with a 'specialty' clamp on the car's crank vent tee that you need to remove; after the act of god occurs to get it off, don't bother trying to reinstall it unless you have the equally 'special' tool; just use one of those worm jobs you bought -- BTW, getting the virgin 1/2" hose on there is fun, too, even with a dab of oil from the dipstick as lube.
- The other place you need one of those clamps is on the 3/8-1/2" reducer you will put in the "large hose under manifold" (nice wording, Perrin
) -- let's say: it's the only 1/2" hose that was attached to the inlet, and it is rather short and straight. You'll need the clamp here because that "1/2" hose" is more like 19/32", lol -- and Perrin thought it'd be cute to provide you with a smaller reducer than required. While the instructions' ziptie solution will leave you astonished that it was even recommended, the clamp you bought will take up the slack very nicely.
- You can get that odd allen key bolt holding the stock inlet to the manifold loose with vise grips if you can't find/don't have the right bit; just remember you're dealing with plastic, so be careful.
- Note well the small vac line running from the turbo to the boost solenoid before trying to tuck the inlet under the mani for the big fight; it's easy to hang up on and perhaps tear or detach.
- When trying to fit the small end of the hose on the turbo comp inlet, you MUST WORK WITH BOTH ENDS AT THE SAME TIME. Push, twist, angle from the fat intake end, guide the lip carefully (but with purpose) with your flathead on the small end.
Mine tended to go toward the driver side and needed to be "lipped" onto the passenger side of the compressor inlet. Luckily this part, once guided, is a good fit.
Remember to get your clamp on there (pushed back towards the recirc port) loosely BEFORE you go at it -- or you'll be doing your second
inlet install 5 minutes later for the dumbest reason ever
- Out of sheer relief, you may be tempted to tighten down the comp inlet clamp once fitted to the base, DON'T; you can slide it up and get it ready once the hose is fully seated, but it needs to stay loose for the necessary wiggle room to get the recirc hose fitted in properly, which allows very little room/line-up error margin for entry, and will likely require a 'twist' of the inlet hose.
- Rubbing alcohol will make the aluminum fittings slide like butter into silicone; it made things go a bit easier here and there, and will clean the silicone well when done -- worth the 50 cents or whatever.
- The supplied aluminum recirc fitting is juuuuust oversized enough, not only so that it's a royal pita to get it in the oem recirc hose, but also so that the stock black tension clamp is rendered useless; use a properly-sized worm gear. I've read some boiling water can soften the oem hose end up a bit.
Sorry, no pics cuz I did this in silly cold temps b/c I (correctly) divined my stocker was torn :0
I actually like the peice very much once installed.
Hope this helps shave some hours for inlet noobs