Well the one tutorial is for a LGT and that doesn't really apply to the N/A crowd plus it is always helpful to demonstrate on what you (hopefully) well be working on after reading this if you need help. As stated this thread is a walk through on a fairly simple and cost saving procedure, Spark Plug Replacement.
What tools you will need:
5/8 inch spark plug socket
Two 3" extensions
One 6" extension
Basic socket tool set
Needle nose pliers
Phillips and Flat head screw drivers
4 NGK FR5AP-11 or BKR5EGP or which ever plug you decide to use
**//Note the Bosch wireset commonly stocked at your local parts store is probably wrong, go for the store brand set and a quick spot check is to pull them out of the box. There should be two long wires, 1 medium length wire and one shorter, they should also have the plug tube boot on the electrode connecting end//**
I did this in conjunction with an oil change, air filter change, Fuel filter change, front and rear differential change with Extra-S. If you are somewhat savvy with cars all these are easily done and will save you BIG $$$ over the dealer price of this service.
I started on the driver side of the engine with the plug nearest to the front of the engine so that is how this walk through will be presented.
1. Open hood/bonnet and look over everything note locations and routings of wires and connections.
2. Remove the pop-it holding the washer fluid neck in place and move it out of the way( it is flexible i tucked it under the A/C line). Remove the battery, and take out the three bolts (12mm) holding the fuse box to the fender well (see pictures below) as well as the bolt connecting the small black ground wire to the fender well ( this is the black wire in the same harness as the positive red wire)
Now once the 4 bolts are out DO NOT try to pull the panel out it is connected to various things in the front bumper and being so is still held in place.
3. Firmly grasp the ignition wire and pull it off the spark plug
4. Place the 5/8 inch spark plug socket on the 6 inch extension and insert it into the opening on the head where you pulled the wire from. Tip: fit the socket onto the spark plug before connecting the ratchet to the extension this helps ensures the socket is gripping the plug correctly. Once it is firmly in place connect ratchet and begin to loosen plug. All it takes is one full turn and it should be able to easily be turned by simple rotating the extension.
Note if you have a socket that doesn't have the rubber grommet to hold the plug you will have trouble pulling it from the head don't worry simply use a pair of needle nosed pliers insert into the opening where the plug is and grab it and pull it out.
5. Once you get the plug out it should like the one on the left and the new one is on the right
6. Now to install new plug simply place it into the 5/8 inch socket firmly and insert it back into the opening once it is in the best way to ensure you don't cross thread is to SLOWLY turn the plug as if you were to loosen it.
If done correctly you will feel and possibly hear a slight "click or tick" this is the beginning of the thread on the plug once you hear/feel that begin to slowly turn the plug clockwise once you get it hand tight ratchet on and tighten them down to btwn 12-15 ft/lb ( use more torque if you lubricated the threads and less if you did not) if you dont have a torque wrench tighten them 1/2 to 3/4 quarters turn past the point where you cant freely rotate the ratchet.
Once that is in place the wire back in the opening and press it FIRMLY until you hear a faint "CLICK" this is important no click means it may not be properly seated back on the plug itself and it may not get fire from the coil. when pressing on the wire place most of your force in the center of the wire boot and hold the pressure on it will click!
7. The rear plug on this side will require some moving around to get to so:
Unplug the sensor that runs to your A/C line
Now remember the fuse panel now that the bolts are out of that you can now rotate the whole piece up and out the the way to allow for your ratchet with extension to fit.
Notice i just rotated the entire panel up 90 degrees and now you lots of room
8. Follow same extraction and installation procedures from above directions. Note you may need to use two 3 inch extensions or a single 6 inch to get this one out.
9. Make sure you connect that sensor back to your A/C line, bolt the ground wire back, install fuse panel bolts, place battery back, and put the white pop-it connect back in for the washer fluid neck but KEEP the battery disconnected.
10. Now on to the passenger side take a moment look over everything note locations and wire routes. Then remove the entire intake from the engine. This is done by loosening the ring clamps around the snorkus leading from the filter box and leading to the big black torque box mounting to the intake. Unclip the MAF sensor.
To remove the air intake funnel simply remove the two pop-its hold it to the radiator shroud beside the hood/bonnet latch. To remove the other half of the filter box remove the black screw holding it to the fender well ( located closer to the cylinder head) and the bolt on the inside of the air box both are 12mm. You will be left with the following
11. Now tuck the power steering hose above the other line that runs along that side of the engine and unclip the breather tube and place it out of the way and you will have all the room needed.
12. Now start with either one you want pull the wire take out plug insert new shiny plug insert wire back firmly onto the plug. Note: if you start with the rear plug you will notice that the bracket holding the ABS pump limits the space in this case I used a combo of 3 inch extensions placing them on the plug first then fitting the ratchet on my ratchet was right up against this bracket but turned fine. Reinstall the aribox, intake tube, MAF sensor connector, Oil breather hose and you are done.
13. Reconnect positive battery wire. BE aware that it may your alarm system to go off haha mine did and i jolted up and hit my head
. Make sure all connections and bolts are back in place and connected firmly.
14. Test start. It will take a few turns before your engine fires 5-7 cycles when it starts have a look at your engine if it is shaking violently you left off a wire and it isnt firing that cylinder causing an unbalanced sequence shut off engine press each wire to ensure it is seated right. Restart if your engine is running smoother you fixed it. Also notice how I worked with one cylinder at a time this is ensure no cross wiring on cylinders in case you forget the order of the wires.
I hope that is a good guide to spark plug removal and installation it can save you a lot of money. Enjoy if there is something I should add post and ill edit.
I hope this gets stickied