Now jack up the car, at least 18” height, higher the better
Remove front tires
Remove under tray of engine
Remove the nuts on the support bracket between downpipe and turbo
Remove the spring loaded nuts/bolts connect downpipe and mid pipe
Unplug the downpipe oxygen sensor. The connector is located on the transmission.
Complete remove the bolt/nuts on turbo, now the downpipe is only secured by the bolt on the bracket, undo the bolt, remove downpipe
Remove four bolts that hold the dust cover under the car
Remove/disconnect shift linkage, bolts and nuts。
Now that the propeller shaft is exposed, remove the four 12mm nuts that hold the shaft to the rear diff. Release the E-brake to turn the propeller shaft, then engage the E-brake again to hold it still. Remove two nuts/bolts at a time, the repeat the process to remove the other two bolts/nuts.
Remove two bolts that hold the center support of propeller shaft
Once the last bolt of the support is removed, hold the propeller shaft with the other hand, because it is heavy and it is going to fall onto you. Slowly slide it rearward from the transmission and lay it aside. Be careful not to damage the seal on the transmission while sliding out the propeller shaft. Use a plastic bag to wrap around the transmission to prevent any gear oil from gushing out after the propeller shaft has been removed.
Remove endlinks from the front sway bars
Remove bolts of ball joints
Separate ball joint and knuckle. I used a pry bar to accomplish this.
The purpose of the previous steps is to remove both front CV axles from transmission
Now drain the gear oil from the transmission.
“Pop-out” the CV axle by “swing out” the knuckle.
Remove the bottom bolts and nuts of bellhousing.
Now no bolt/nuts are holding transmission and engine together, only by two dowel pins on each side.
Move the transmission jack under the transmission, and support it firmly.
Get ready to remove crossmember. The rear support of transmission.
Now get to the front of engine and place some 2x4 to keep the engine from tilting forward. The reason is to keep the engine “level” after removing the transmission. You need to keep engine level.
Now “officially” remove crossmember。
There are two big bolts holding the front of crossmember, four small bolts on the rear.
I marked all the bolts/nuts with notes, so later I know where to put them back.
After crossmember is removed, the only support for transmission is on the transmission jack.
Now start separating the transmission from the engine.
I pulled the transmission toward the rear of car, wiggle and pull, wiggle and pull.
After seeing a small gap between transmission and engine, I used a big screw driver to pry it open. Do this evenly.