Door panel removal/sound deadening install...with pics

I recently removed my door panels and installed b-quiet's vcomp http://www.b-quiet.com/vcomp.html material behind the door panels. Here's a step by step:

 

1) First pic: Using a flathead screwdriver or similar tool, pry off the door handle cover. Pry down and out, this is easily the most difficult part of removing the door panel. Once you get the cover out a little ways, you may want to stick the pry tool down into the space created to get more leverage. There are three clips that hold the cover onto the handle, I actually broke one on at least one of my doors but it didn't seem to make any difference when reassembling the door panel.

 

2) Second pic: Using a phillips head screwdriver, remove the two screws that secure the door panel to the door. Pic shows the location of the upper screw, the lower is easily visible.

 

3) Third pic: Using a flat head screwdriver or similar tool, pry out the cover behind the door latch. Remove the screw.

 

4) Fourth pic: Pry off the cover at the top of the door where the door meets the A pillar

 

5) Fifth pic: Remove the door panel. There are several clips that secure the door panel to the door, these pry off fairly easily (or rather, the panel pops off pretty easily as you pry it off from the door. I was able to do this just using my hands and no other tools). Remove the wiring harnesses and door locking cables. Pic shows the door after the panel is removed.

 

6) Sixth pic: Shows the door panel once it's removed

 

7) Seventh pic: Shows the installed deflex panel mounted behind the door speaker. For an explanation of the deflex panel, visit http://cascadeaudio.com or http://cascadeaudio.com/deflex.html For purchasing, visit http://partsexpress.com (just do a search on 'deflex') or http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?&DID=7&WebPage_ID=3

 

8) Eighth pic: Shows installed v-comp on door. I used Scotch brand mounting squares to secure the v-comp. It's kinda precarious, but once the door panel is reinstalled, the v-comp should stay secured easily with the pressure of the door panel. V-comp cuts easily with a good pair of scissors.

 

9) Ninth pic: Shows installed v-comp on the door panel. Panel is now ready for reinstallation. Notes: Make sure foam side of v-comp is facing source of noise. Also, you may need to do some additional cutting to make sure the door panel will fit and line up with the door handle screws.

 

Result: Significant reduction in road noise, well worth the time (approx. 6 hours for all four doors) and $ (approx 100 bucks for v-comp for all four doors, + the deflex panels for the front doors). Coarse road surfaces are noticably reduced, smoother road surfaces create much less road noise than before. The deflex panels seem to add extra definition and tighter bass to the sound, but this may be partly attributable to the overall reduction in cabin noise.

nice! I have 100sq ft sitting in the garage

Wow, that's quite a bit of v-comp! I bought two 13.5 sq. ft. sections, and only used 1. I have the other 13.5 sq. ft. section still unopened in the box. I also have a pair of the deflex panels, I originally intended to do all four door speakers, but the rear doors have a bar that gets in the way, so I didn't bother with the rears. I hope the pics and steps help you (or anyone else) out in removing the door panels!

Nice job!

hmm..do the deflex panels show a noticed increase in sound quality? I did the reading on that link you provided, and does it truly give the clarity and less distortion? that would be a good buy if it was...or is it not worth it?

Is this stuff similar to Dynamat (sp?)? I'm impressed that it's noticably quieter because I'm already impressed with how quiet it is. Better than Infinity G35 and Acura TL that I'd compared it against when buying.

 

Thanks for the walk-through.

NALegacy: The deflex panels do indeed seem to give more definition to the sound overall, and tighten the bass up a bit. However, as I installed them at the same time as the v-comp, it may be that the lower noise levels in the car are also responsible for the improvements in sound quality. IMO yes they are worth it, as a pair of the 7" panels are about 30 bucks.

 

forestir: The v-comp is not similar to dynamat. V-comp is about 3/8" thick, and consists of a vinyl backing with about 1/4" thick foam attached. If you had to pick either dynamat or V-comp as a sound deadening solution, I'd go with the v-comp hands down. Dynamat is similar to b-quiet's ultimate product: http://www.b-quiet.com/ultimate.html IMO dynamat is overpriced, you can get just as good product for less $ elsewhere. For more info on V-comp: http://www.b-quiet.com/vcomp.html (edited original post, I should've put a link to the v-comp there).

nice writeup

Very nice Walk-Through!

 

Thanks!

Has anyone else tried this?

 

deneb - are u still pleased with the results? do u suggest doing anything different? Also ...when comparing the before and after pics of the door panel (pic 6 and 9) why did you use so many small square pieces? Is that how they came? Or would you be able to put whole pieces or big pieces rather than soo many small ones.

I'm using B-Quiet Ultimate and putting two layers on the outside skin and fram as part of my stereo install. Got the LR door done and am working on the LF one now. Hopefully, I will get all the doors done today, then will move on to wiring up the CleanSweep and the amps.

nice! I have 100sq ft sitting in the garage

 

 

 

I'm still pleased with the results, it's time and $ well spent if you want to reduce road noise. I used small pieces mainly because small peices are a lot easier to work with.

Thanks for the nice writeup on door panel removal.

 

Any reason you put the deadner on the moisture barrier instead of the metal part of the doors instead?

Simply because on my last car, I did remove the moisture barrier, which was held on by grease with the consistency of melted cheese, IOW a freakin' MESS! The LGT apparantly had the same grease holding on the plastic barrier, I didn't want to mess (pun not intended) with it.

Wow, that's quite a bit of v-comp! I bought two 13.5 sq. ft. sections, and only used 1. I have the other 13.5 sq. ft. section still unopened in the box. I also have a pair of the deflex panels, I originally intended to do all four door speakers, but the rear doors have a bar that gets in the way, so I didn't bother with the rears. I hope the pics and steps help you (or anyone else) out in removing the door panels!

 

deneb-

 

So 13.5 sq. ft. covered all 4 doors?

Yup. You could probably get more v-comp in there though if you tried, but the one 13.5 sq ft. sheet was all I used.

Thanks, I'll just order one sheet.

 

The doors are so easy to pull apart I thought I would supplement my HushMat with v-comp. Besides I have to go back in and replace the front spacers. Cutting it down to smaller pieces looks like a good idea.

BTW, I used your walk through for the panel removal.

Thanks again,

Ross

Sorry to bump an old thread, but I think it's very informative. I just order two 13.5 sheets of VComp to install during my very first personal attempt at a stereo upgrade. The main point of this post is that I found a 10% discount code to use while ordering from B-Quiet. The code is as follows...

 

ls1.com

Excellent walk-through and just an all-around great idea for the Subie. I never would have thought of this upgrade.

 

This has moved to the top-three on my lengthy list of future upgrades.

 

 

1: F/R Swaybars (Cusco)

2: AP

3: Sound Deadening Mod

 

Thanks!!

It sucks getting that handle to come off. And don't worry about the moisture barrier... it peels off easily so that you can get a nice layer on the outer shell and then close everything in by putting a layer on the interior panel and over all of the access holes.

i have some pics of dampening on my doors in my install log as well its in my signature

That is a sick install... I envy your skill and patience, going to start my own fiberglass in a couple weeks here.

ahh sweet!! thanks so much deneb for posting up how to remove the door panels.. I just couldnt figure it out.. but now I know where the screws are.. I will go try again, should be successful this time

I'm working on this install right now...how the hell do you remove the door locking cables? do you just pull on them?