Oil filter change only?

Anyone know how much oil is lost by just changing the filter on a 2.5i? I'm leaning towards filter change every 3750 miles, oil every 7500 as called for.

Why hassle like that ? Just do your oil/ filter at 3k like the wise men know.

Since the oil filter is good for up to 15K of oil, flow you don't need to change the filter as often as the oil.

 

You'd be better off changing the oil more often not the filter. Oil is the key part and the filter is stopping much less from happening to your motor.

Since the oil filter is good for up to 15K of oil, flow you don't need to change the filter as often as the oil.

 

You'd be better off changing the oil more often not the filter. Oil is the key part and the filter is stopping much less from happening to your motor.

 

This is bad advice.

 

If you want to change something at 3750, then do a full oil and filter change. Changing one, not both, is stupid.

IMHO the only reason to change the filter without the oil is if you have a bypass filtration system.

I'm not sure how much would come out if you pulled just the filter off. Probably half a quart or less, the filters are tiny.

if you are going to change filter only why not change it and check your oil dip stick to see how much more oil you need..

My guess is that you should lose around .4qt's, but anything is possible if you don't drain the oil.

This is bad advice.

 

If you want to change something at 3750, then do a full oil and filter change. Changing one, not both, is stupid.

for the people who dont sleep easy at night going beyond 3750 miles on oil, yes you're right change both.

 

If you do your research on filter/oil technology you can easily do 7500 on the subi filter and 15K on after market filters designed to go the distance.

 

I wouldn't drive 15K on a FRAM filter and cheap oil.

 

However my point to the poster was subi changed the 3750 because their motors break down oil quickly. High torque environments and the turbo ruin dino oils and make lesser syn oils run thin for their weights.

 

A good redline turbo formulated oil will run 7500 miles on the subi filter without issue.

 

As I proved on our 2000 TL going 15K on oil for 140K with no oil burning I'll be going 7500-9000 on oil in our subi. The oil police on this forum are going to be all over this 'bad advice'. Waste not want not I say.

There is no reason not to do both, the oil filter is easily accesible - and very easy to change if you have an oil filter socket (the smallest one in the set of four at Harbor Freight works fine.)

 

And not changing the oil is also stupid since it will increase the risk of residue buildup inside the engine - causing premature wear, and the turbo is especially sensitive on these engines.

cut open an old oil filter and see how dirty it is. That's the ONLY way to know how long to go with the filters. Regular oil analysis is the ONLY way to figure out if your oil is still good or not.

 

so monthly or more often oil analysis, plus a few oil filters, plus oil to top off each time you change a filter plus whatever your POS burns... O, can't forget the lost finger tip each time you cut open a filter.

 

 

This is assuming, of course, that your banjo bolt hasn't clogged and killed your turbo, which took out your engine 3 weeks later.

As I proved on our 2000 TL going 15K on oil for 140K with no oil burning I'll be going 7500-9000 on oil in our subi.

 

This is proof of nothing besides you being too cheap to change your oil at recommended intervals.

Since the oil filter is good for up to 15K of oil, flow you don't need to change the filter as often as the oil.

 

You'd be better off changing the oil more often not the filter. Oil is the key part and the filter is stopping much less from happening to your motor.

 

 

This is too much

Don't forget that if the filter gets clogged it will either break if it's a cheap filter or open a bypass valve. In both cases unfiltered oil will enter the engine and that may cause severe problems.

+1 for changing BOTH at whatever interval you decide on.

 

Buy in bulk. It's either going to cost you $17 for dyno or $40 for synthetic, filter and crush washer. 3k all the way.

$17 for a dyno - that's cheap. But I suspect that you refer to Dino oil.

As I proved on our 2000 TL going 15K on oil for 140K with no oil burning I'll be going 7500-9000 on oil in our subi. The oil police on this forum are going to be all over this 'bad advice'. Waste not want not I say.

 

Absolutely nothing scientific about that, some people smoke until they kill over at 90, does that mean it's good for you? I've never understood why people are too cheap to spend $30 every 3000 miles on a $30,000 car, but to each his own..

$17 for a dyno - that's cheap. But I suspect that you refer to Dino oil.

 

Yeppers... I'm jet lagged today

80% of my miles are freeway commuting. No turbo. (Wish it was a GT cause I do drive it like maybe it'll grow one someday ) I'm doing the Mobile 1 synth/filter thing as it seems I can find the $30 deal within the 7500 mile markers. I can see both sides. Not gonna kill it to go the 7500 but why chance it for $15 savings right? I guess I'll watch consumption and maybe get the oil analyzed. Where and how much to do this?

My guess is that you should lose around .4qt's, but anything is possible if you don't drain the oil.

Per FSM, oil capacity is different by 0.2 US qt between changing oil and oil+filter.

80% of my miles are freeway commuting. No turbo. (Wish it was a GT cause I do drive it like maybe it'll grow one someday ) I'm doing the Mobile 1 synth/filter thing as it seems I can find the $30 deal within the 7500 mile markers. I can see both sides. Not gonna kill it to go the 7500 but why chance it for $15 savings right? I guess I'll watch consumption and maybe get the oil analyzed. Where and how much to do this?

 

 

google blackstone oil kits

 

As I proved on our 2000 TL going 15K on oil for 140K with no oil burning I'll be going 7500-9000 on oil in our subi. The oil police on this forum are going to be all over this 'bad advice'. Waste not want not I say.

 

 

I find multiple errors with your lackluster analysis.

 

First and foremost, don't you ever, ever, compare an acura TL engine with a subaru's. I don't care how long you ran oil in it without issues in your non-turbo 6cyl, I don't care if you pissed in the oil fill and ran without issues, this is what we call IRRELEVANCE in car forum talk considering you're comparing apples to orange.

 

I DARE you to go 7500-9000 in your LGT. Lemme know how that works out, to add insult to injury.

 

The TL resembles NOTHING of our engine. Our engine is an odd pickle, it requires different oil recommendations and intervals that your typical FWD, torque steering, piece of shit. The cylinders are FUQQING HORIZONTAL and backpressure via the factory oil filter (per subaru specs) provide optimal bearing lubrication, in which very few aftermarket filters provide.

 

So yes, I will call you out on this very obvious, bad advice.

I'll do an oil sample at 7500 miles to confirm.

 

Interestingly people on the acura forums were jumping up and down about 15K oil changes and how 3K was the requirement. Most ignorant people have bought into the 3K sales cycle to keep oil changers in business.

 

Since most dino oil far exceeds the requirements of today's cars, a good syn has performed very well beyond typical dino intervals. Chevron engineer friend of mine changes his oil every year, no matter the miles and tops up the approximately 1 quart he burns. Last car drove 320k like this and passed California smog, burning approximately 1 quart/year on 15-20K of driving. I sat down with him and discussed years ago oil, it's process to breaking down and the science behind it. If they made this info available the world would be a different place. Instead we're being sold 3K, for profits.

 

What I've found is going into depth on the reviews just leads to more stupidiness from uneducated ignorant car owners who buy into the 3K change. Frankly, doing indepth reviews on this stuff is a waste of time. No one here appears to be an engineer or coming at this with more then 'they say 3K do it or car will blow up'.

 

You know it's bad when car people who love cars don't do anything to test their theories. It's really bad when even the dealer is suggesting 3K intervals, not the 3750 or the 7500 miles based on our driving style. The load on my motors with 500 mile trips is very different then the person who races street light to street light.

 

I'll be running redline 10w40 their turbo formula. I also have an email into Subaru about the tests so they can stop making their cars so wasteful. Comparing Subaru's designs on fluids/plugs and combine this with MPG and they're of the most wasteful car company on the planet. They could easily improve this by giving the turbo it's own oil system, very low cost and upping the motors oil capcity by 1.5 qt and requiring more then dino oil be used. The marginal cost increase to equip a car with this system is small, as is the extra $5/oil change required to run a basic syn oil. But hey, subi doesn't build their cars for the environment, they build it for profits. It's why it took 12 years for them to come up with cars that go 137K on coolant. It's why they don't have a single 35-40mpg car and why even the domestics are now beating them in the mpg wars.

 

I do this, because I like to test things. I like to study facts and figures. I like to push limits and explore. If I wanted to be a little pussy, I'd be sucking my thumb believing everything that was feed to me like it appears much of you are. I'd be watching american idol with the rest of you and changing my oil at 3K.

 

Track/race the car, running extra boost and all this goes out the window. Stock cars will far exceed the manufacturers suggestions. Because at the end of the day, the average person is stupid and their counting on that stupidity to drive sales and if they set the bar low enough people will make it over. Look into oil service intervals for the same cars in europe. Huge difference across almost all makers. People also buy the oil dealers cheapest fluids to save $10. But they'll happily do this and change it every 3K. Think of all the filters wasted, the extra oil in the land fill and the plastic containers wasted. It's a huge cycle.

 

Be adults, live a little. Anyone who paid 30K should be sucking their thumb, they were had. This car isn't worth much more than half that. If you've got science on your side happily open up another thread and we can debate the facts. If you're stupid and want to blindly follow others, by all means do so but don't expect a sheep from me.

 

Best of luck.

It's funny, for as intelligent as you try to sound, you really get facts and figures messed up, and it seems like you distort your scenarios to try and prove your own convoluted viewpoints. Your post is so dizzyingly painful that I can't even respond to it. One experience isn't testing a hypothesis, nor is it proof that a theory is sound.

 

Subaru changed to a synthetic oil, smaller OCI suggestion because of people like you who preach about their long OCIs, then have a turbo failure which takes out their motor a few weeks later, and then cry that Subaru sucks and they make inferior products.

 

You are blindly ignorant if you think any company doesn't heavily consider profit in their decisions. Without profit a company will not be around long.

 

Your statement such as, "Last car drove 320k like this and passed California smog, burning approximately 1 quart/year on 15-20K of driving." really doesn't prove anything. It's one person's experience out of many millions. While that experience is valid in its own right, it's not solid proof of all scenarios, nor should you accept it as such if you claim to look deeply in to things.

 

With my example before, some people smoke until they die in their 90s, does that mean smoking is good for you and the health advocates have it all wrong, since some people do make it in to their 90s smoking? Or there are people who have unprotected sex and never catch a disease, does that mean that it's the way to go and anyone who preaches otherwise is an idiot fear monger? Think about your "proof" before you jump all over people and say ridiculous things, potentially giving people terrible, detrimental advice...

 

Didn't you also say though, that Ferrari (I think you spelled it Farrari) is just a name and Honda has more racing heritage than them?

 

 

Honda started racing motor cycles and beat all the major teams. When they got into F1 they were untouchable.

 

The only other car company that comes close is Mazda. They've brought a lot to the industry as well.

 

Farrari is a great name but beyond that it's a name.

It's funny, for as intelligent as you try to sound, you really get facts and figures messed up, and it seems like you distort your scenarios to try and prove your own convoluted viewpoints. Your post is so dizzyingly painful that I can't even respond to it. One experience isn't testing a hypothesis, nor is it proof that a theory is sound.

 

Subaru changed to a synthetic oil, smaller OCI suggestion because of people like you who preach about their long OCIs, then have a turbo failure which takes out their motor a few weeks later, and then cry that Subaru sucks and they make inferior products.

 

You are blindly ignorant if you think any company doesn't heavily consider profit in their decisions. Without profit a company will not be around long.

 

Your statement such as, "Last car drove 320k like this and passed California smog, burning approximately 1 quart/year on 15-20K of driving." really doesn't prove anything. It's one person's experience out of many millions. While that experience is valid in its own right, it's not solid proof of all scenarios, nor should you accept it as such if you claim to look deeply in to things.

 

With my example before, some people smoke until they die in their 90s, does that mean smoking is good for you and the health advocates have it all wrong, since some people do make it in to their 90s smoking? Or there are people who have unprotected sex and never catch a disease, does that mean that it's the way to go and anyone who preaches otherwise is an idiot fear monger? Think about your "proof" before you jump all over people and say ridiculous things, potentially giving people terrible, detrimental advice...

 

Didn't you also say though, that Ferrari (I think you spelled it Farrari) is just a name and Honda has more racing heritage than them?

 

I'll show my results as they develop if you like. I think the rest has become subjective and is turning into a battle of personalities not science.

 

Subi's piston speeds are much lower than the honda motors I've got much distance on. If my figures are right this should make up for extra load on the side of the piston rings.

 

Turbo's have failed because the oil has broken down due to the heat of the turbo. Last I checked subi was not issuing turbo specific syn formulas.

 

When I was at the dealer inspecting their parts department, I saw no syn oil and was not recommend as much. I could be all wrong as to what they're putting in the car. Further more to test my theory I had them put in a cheap Pennzoil platinum syn oil, which I will run for 3750K to clean out the motor and start running redline later next week. We do a tone of driving. I'll get a base line on that oil, and follow with 7500 mile intervals and test the oil.

 

If people here are truly interested, I can report my findings and share my information.

 

I don't need a dare to do this, I told you I was doing this.

Subi's piston speeds are much lower than the honda motors I've got much distance on. If my figures are right this should make up for extra load on the side of the piston rings.

 

Can you share your figures?