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DRL Disable, in 10 minutes


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This walkthrough shows you exactly where everything is, and also how to remove fasteners and parts without breaking anything.

 

Green arrows, DRL module

Red arrows, panel attachments

 

1. Lower the panel above the pedals

  1. There are three plastic attachments for the lower panel. For the two in each side, turn counterclockwise 90 degrees, and the screw head part will pop out, now you can grab it by hand and pull it out completey.
  2. The middle attachment you must use firm pressure on to pull it out.

2. You will see the DRL module on the firewall with a white and black connector. If you can read the green sticker on the top it will say "DRL" on it.

3. Pull the white connector out only, secure it so it does not rattle, perhaps with a zip-tie as shown

4. Put the panel back.

  1. Just push the middle attachment back in
  2. With the "screw head" part of the black attachments extended, push it into the two holes on the sides. Then push the screw head in to lock it into place.

 

One of the best posts ever. :)this should be a sticky for anyone wanting to do this.

 

did it in 5 min or less. not really a better or easier way to say/show how to do it.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Just wondering, why do people dislike DRL's so much? I don't have a problem if people do the mod, just wondering.

for those of us with HID's...the DRL's use a lower voltage than required by the hids to be powered...thus creating a low voltage to the HIDs which makes it hard for the ballast and ignitors to get the bulbs to power up...so if u didnt u would have to run with ur lights on all the time or turn them off while the parking brake is up cause it cuts the DRLs off...thus thats why some of us dislike DRLs so much...

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I'm surprised nobody has mentioned it... the reason it's a problem to remember to turn on the headlights when they should be turned on has less to do with the fact that the DRLs are there and a lot more to do with the fact that the instrument lights are always on... at least that's why I forget :icon_neut

 

I have no problem with DRLs (ya, would be nice if I could turn them off when I need to), but WTF kind of safety feature is having the instrument lights on all the time?? Used to be that when I couldn't see the little hash marks between the MPH marks (on my old car), I would turn on the lights (dusk, dawn, overcast, etc), but now I don't have that point of reference. :icon_mad:

 

Has anybody done a mod to turn off the instrument lights when only DRLs are on??

 

I've tried the "lights on always", but I've drained enough batteries in my life that I have a very strong habit of turning off the lights when I park the car... I'm working on it... :icon_bigg

"I love the feel of wind in my face and boobies against my back." - BMW motorcycle rider
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I have Silverstars on my previous vehicle. It's a little brighter for sure, and certainly whiter. They have been fine for 2 years now, fwiw.

 

Incidentally, just to point out a little silliness that I see on the roads. Often I see people with blue-tinted lights. The Silverstars are more white, and slightly blueish, but not like the "blue" lights I see so often. For those that don't know, blue is one of the harder colors for our eyes to see - that's why you have heard of those Blueblocker sunglasses. So, going "blue" isn't the answer - it simply adds haziness to your vision, and doesn't accomplish much else. Yellow lights probably are better than blue, with white being the best, of course.

 

Ok, I'm off my soapbox now.

 

isn't the yellow end of the spectrum easier on the eyes? i mean, if you are to say that blue is bad, hence the need for blue blockers- wouldn't the natural assumption be then that white (which is a combination of all colors of the spectrum and therefore have blue in it) would be bad as well.

 

my understanding is that yellow (to be more appropriate- "natural") light was chosen for that very reason. when HID's came out, they were annoying to some oncoming drivers but were more useful to the driver of the vehicle in question because of their HIGH INTENSITY. However, these wannabe white lights (i.e. PIAA) merely are colored white, do not offer any increase in discharge and therefore lumination, and so offer the driver no advantage and still serve to piss off everyone else.

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Well, I don't know how it is for you guys, but in the GT model, the instrument display is a "black out" style. Without illumination, you coulnd't see how fast you were going or how much gas you had.

 

Ah, you're right... :redface: Guess that wouldn't work too well :icon_frow

 

Never mind!

"I love the feel of wind in my face and boobies against my back." - BMW motorcycle rider
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isn't the yellow end of the spectrum easier on the eyes? i mean, if you are to say that blue is bad, hence the need for blue blockers- wouldn't the natural assumption be then that white (which is a combination of all colors of the spectrum and therefore have blue in it) would be bad as well.

 

my understanding is that yellow (to be more appropriate- "natural") light was chosen for that very reason. when HID's came out, they were annoying to some oncoming drivers but were more useful to the driver of the vehicle in question because of their HIGH INTENSITY. However, these wannabe white lights (i.e. PIAA) merely are colored white, do not offer any increase in discharge and therefore lumination, and so offer the driver no advantage and still serve to piss off everyone else.

 

Well, the issue with blue is that the eyes behave weirdly with it. Blue can be very annoying sometimes (look at blue LEDs) and can also increase the perception of haziness. Yellow (incandescent) lights are generally better accepted, but they "look old" which is why they make the blue-tinted bulbs these days, to help reduce the yellow-ness of the bulb and make it "look" whiter. Ideally, pure white would be best, of course, or something slightly less blue (which ends up being yellowish, as you have deduced).

 

HIDs are just as you described - high intensity. When focused and directed properly, they work great (projector style). However, when people pop HID lights into an incandescent reflector assembly, they simply piss off the rest of the drivers since they are not properly directed...

 

You are also correct, "looking white" doesn't mean brighter, though many people will buy the marketing. As a side note, in some countries they will put a blue-dye in their "bleach" to make white clothes look whiter. Again, it's not really whiter or cleaner than regular soap (since there is no bleach in there at all) but it fools the public well enough, and it's cheaper to make than bleach...

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  • 4 weeks later...

You sure your lights are on all the way (two clicks on the stalk in my 06 LGT)?

 

I pulled the plug (as many others have) and simply don't have DRLs...

 

Did you pull the right plug? Did you knock something else loose?

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Ah, it did work. I didn't realize I needed to click twice to get the lights to come on full blast (manual? what manual?). I always thought clicking twice made the high beams turn on, since that setting was brighter than the DRLs. Thanks!
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Again, for those newbs that haven't read this entire thread.... Just twist the light stalk and turn the headlights ON......

And.... just leave them on!

They automatically shut off when you turn the ignition OFF, and....even better..... automatically come back on when you start the car!

 

You never again have to wonder if you turned on your headlights....because they're already on.

 

Plus you don't have to wonder if you pulled the wrong thing.

 

It's all good.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I did the disable today. LITERALLY took about 1 minute. I LOVE it!! I detested the DRLs.

 

I wanted to do it before, however, this morning, somewhat sleepy (I go in to work at 4am), I drove the entire way to work without turning on my headlights. I never knew it until I went to turn them off and discovered they weren't on. I didn't get a ticket or even stopped, however it made me realize I need to know for sure they're on.

 

The mod was extremely easy, thanks to all of the suggestions in this thread. I found it VERY easy to push the flexible lower covering up for plenty of clearance, eliminating the need to remove that panel. Thanks guys!!

 

H2OSB

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I did it a long time ago and just because off HID lights and now did the fog light mod- http://www.moojohn.com/subaru/fogmod.html and now I'm happy:icon_bigg . Driving with the fog On and driving off- when don't need them

 

I did the DRL delete mod and installed my HIDs 2 days ago. Now I am looking for and way to have DRL either on the fogs or high beams (DRL are mandatory here in Canada, and I believe in there usefullness...).

 

Do you think I could do this mod to use the fogs as DRL???

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I did the DRL delete mod and installed my HIDs 2 days ago. Now I am looking for and way to have DRL either on the fogs or high beams (DRL are mandatory here in Canada, and I believe in there usefullness...).

 

Do you think I could do this mod to use the fogs as DRL???

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22346&page=3

 

I wrote instructions on how to do it here.

 

X

---
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http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22346&page=3

 

I wrote instructions on how to do it here.

 

X

 

Yeah I know, I saw your well done walk through.

 

But did you find a way to hide the blue light in the dash?

 

You also said you were looking for a way to dime the high beams a bit more (which is what I would like to do), but you gave no news about it ;)

Does this mean that the high beams DRL are ok this way?

 

Thanks for sharing your great work!

 

DrGT

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Oh sorry about that. I need to get a 1 OHM 60 Watt resistor, which are harder to get, and I have been somewhat busy recently. For the blue light I believe the cable needs to be tapped further up from it, but that is going to be a little bit more of a challenge from looking at the diagrams.

 

The high beams are as bright as any GM car during DRL's operation since they are running at 12.5 Volts. I liket to bring them down to 10 V, and that is why I need the resistor.

 

I will work on this once again when the weather gets warmer. Too much damn snow out there.

 

X

---
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Oh sorry about that. I need to get a 1 OHM 60 Watt resistor, which are harder to get, and I have been somewhat busy recently. For the blue light I believe the cable needs to be tapped further up from it, but that is going to be a little bit more of a challenge from looking at the diagrams.

 

The high beams are as bright as any GM car during DRL's operation since they are running at 12.5 Volts. I liket to bring them down to 10 V, and that is why I need the resistor.

 

I will work on this once again when the weather gets warmer. Too much damn snow out there.

 

X

 

Thanks again!

I may try it soon...

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Once I found the right thing to press and figured out where to pull it wasn't hard. So if you're having trouble, you may be pressing and pulling in the wrong spot. It doesn't take a lot of force to do this.
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  • 2 weeks later...

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