5EAT Ask your Questions!?!

Last dyno was 320hp at hubs with Hexmods modded VB and the 5eat is taking the 22psi tune no probs, 11,000kms on this setup.

Racing red clutch packs on 2nd though.

One for the top brass:

What is the task of the lone exposed diode on the VB unit (capacitor, fuse, switching, volt. reg, etc.), and what symptom(s) would one expect to encounter if fully/partially burned?

TIA, gents.

Guys.. Help needed here.. Suddenly my 06 jdm bl5 having this jerk when shifting from first gear to second.. What could be wrong with the 5EAT..

Advice needed.. Thanks..

I ended up pulling the trigger on some Derale stuff.. cooler and thermostat. Next question: Should I just bypass the radiator for cooling? Seems like a lot of added length to the cooling system if I keep it in the loop.. I'm assuming there's some type of trans oil pump, won't the added length of hose put more stress on that? Thoughts?

Following up for FYI and anyone that may have been wondering..

I ended up not installing a cooler or doing a flush/fluid change of any kind.. The only thing i did was add a hitch and pulled the trailer. I had 800lbs of people, pets, and stuff in the car and the trailer weighed ~3500lbs (a lot more than expected), i pulled it 3300 miles in 4th gear, rarely did the car hunt for 3rd. It never overheated and did spectacular at 70mph. On the whole trip I averaged 16mpg (mileage/fuel calculation). I anticipated hills, stopping, slowing, and even ran the car hard a few times to merge in to traffic.

There is absolutely no reason I believe a trans cooler would have been needed and aside from the cost of fuel and boredom of the trip, I wouldn't hesitate to tow the same trailer across the country again.

And when I dig the cooler, thermostat, and extra hose out from the middle of my garage full of household goods, i'm going to post it for sale...what a waste of money.

Guys.. Help needed here.. Suddenly my 06 jdm bl5 having this jerk when shifting from first gear to second.. What could be wrong with the 5EAT..

 

Advice needed.. Thanks..

does it do this all the time ? or only when cold ?

does it do this all the time ? or only when cold ?

its started few days ago.. it happen consistently.. cold or hot..

is it because of the valve body too?

^ well the valve body is what controls the fluid. so likely something sticking or worn.

if your car completely stock ?

a good place to start is checking / changing the fluid.

and possibly reseting the learning for the trans mission.

normally when you drive slowly it should learn to correct the issues you speak of unless there is something worn or broken.

but hard shifting is actually good for the life of the trans mission if in fact its what its doing.

yeah.. my car is 95% stock.. apart that I have changed the exhaust piping only.

well, it has become very annoying, where it jerk strongly..

Yeah.. I am also thinking of getting the ATF changed, and see how it goes..

Thanks..

so change atf fluid.

be sure to keep in mind that subaru automatic trans missions have 2 dipsticks for fluid measurement.

the left side witch is difficult to see is for the automatic transmission fluid.

the one on the right side is for the differential witch is gear oil.

it wouldn't be the first time this was mixed !

Following up for FYI and anyone that may have been wondering..

 

I ended up not installing a cooler or doing a flush/fluid change of any kind.. The only thing i did was add a hitch and pulled the trailer. I had 800lbs of people, pets, and stuff in the car and the trailer weighed ~3500lbs (a lot more than expected), i pulled it 3300 miles in 4th gear, rarely did the car hunt for 3rd. It never overheated and did spectacular at 70mph. On the whole trip I averaged 16mpg (mileage/fuel calculation). I anticipated hills, stopping, slowing, and even ran the car hard a few times to merge in to traffic.

 

There is absolutely no reason I believe a trans cooler would have been needed and aside from the cost of fuel and boredom of the trip, I wouldn't hesitate to tow the same trailer across the country again.

 

And when I dig the cooler, thermostat, and extra hose out from the middle of my garage full of household goods, i'm going to post it for sale...what a waste of money.

Thanks for sharing your experience. How did you monitor the temperature, or what leads you to say it did not overheat?

What was the outside temp?

In most cases the tranny doesn't make much heat if any.

The only time the tranny would get hot is when the tCC is not engaged.

So mild grades where the car is in 3rd or higher.

I don't feel the car needs a cooler either. Although it doesn't hurt to have one.

So it sounds like my front diff is going (horrible screeching noise under decel in 1st and 2nd manual mode) and my 3rd gear is starting to slip once in a while, and upshifting into 4th is more of a slam half the time. I consider a STI 6MT swap but was talked out of it. I'm looking at buying a built 5EAT and so far IPT seems like the most popular option.

Does anyone know what sort of warranty IPT offers? Are there better choices out there for around $4k? In the long run (maybe a few years down the road) I'd like to eventually go up to around 400WHP max, maybe closer to mid to high 300s. Before then, the most it'll see will be a VF52, but I want something that will last and will handle the power when it's time to move on. I really prefer to buy a built trans since the diff is more or less a time bomb at this point and I'd like to have the trans ready at the shop when it gives.

i would just put in a used tranny and hex mod valve body ..

used tranny is like 1 k .

and i dont believe ipt actually does any magic to it.

Your experience was the polar opposite of mine. I think I would have had many more issues without the cooler. I had several overheating issues all related to strange TCC behavior. If I were to do it again, I'd install a switch to control the TCC. In that case, I agree that a cooler wouldn't be necessary. Unless you went out of your way to avoid mountain passes, I don't believe that you didn't have some severe temps. Did you log anything?

from my experience the tcc is hydraulically not available in first and 2nd. as its a limp home mode in case of electric or mechanical issue with the tcc solonoid.

i'm sure that can be bypassed but it would need to be figured out.

but 3rd should have enough torque to pull most things with the tcc engaged.

had the ATF changed.. no improvement, i guess those solenoid or the valve body must have problems already..

not a happy man:(

had the ATF changed.. no improvement, i guess those solenoid or the valve body must have problems already..

 

not a happy man:(

well get the tcu reset. you can do it your self with a vag comm cable (15usd$). and a program called free ssm

I don't think it's really necessary to get the tcc working in 1st and 2nd. The heat will be produced in 3rd during long climbs. There's definitely plenty of torque in 3rd to take care of that.

have you ever had the trans so hot that it disabled manual shifting and forced on tcc always?