Head Gasket Swap in School Parking lot

So I kind of love my subaru..... I blew the left head gasket, and i am replacing both now in my school apt parking lot. So far ive put about 8 hours into it through out the school year, but i want it done by winter.

 

http://i44.tinypic.com/vwvl0p.jpg

 

Things Ive completed:

 

1. Removed rad
   
2. remove air intake
   
3. ac pump (off to side)
   
4. steering pump (off to side)
   
5. Removed rusted EGR pipe
   

 

To do:

 

1. Finish removing intake manifold
   
2. remove aux pulley
   
3. remove timing belt
   
4. remove heads
   
5. inspect heads
   
6. clean heads
   
7. order/replace gaskets
   
8. not freeze to death
   

 

I'm trying to remove the intake manifold, how do i remove this? or do i need too remove this sensor.

 

http://i41.tinypic.com/334i14g.jpg

yes,

disconnect that sensor.

there are also 2 wire connection to the temp sensors under the intake on rthe passenger side.

and 2 ? coolant hoses under the throttle body to disconnect .

and the wire connector for the knock sensor under the throttle body on the drive side.

 

tip: TAKE NOTE:

the 98, ej25 has bucket and shim valve lash adjustment.

when you remove the cam shafts from the heads,

the shims (and maybe buckets) tend to spill out on the ground.

this is a head ache.

 

go to the parts store and buy a haynes manual.

they are not perfect, but they will help.

 

also look in the stickies and down load an FSM for your year or one next to your year.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/second-gen-factory-service-manuals-literature-186552.html

Disconnect that sensor like John said. It should slide right off. Then undo the bolts on each side and lift it off (assuming you disconnected everything else).

 

Print off an Internet coupon and but a harbor freight one ton shop crane and buy one for $100. Pull your engine out and take it to your dorm room. This will solve no. 8 on your to do list. Plus it will make doing all the other necessary and preventative work easy. And chicks will think you are bad ass.

 

I would remove the crank pulley before you pull the motor. Either by placing a breaker bar on the bolt and resting it on the subframe or the ground and blipping the starter or using a screwdriver to hold the flywheel in place through the access hole on the side of the motor.

When you remove the cams do not allow the shims and buckets to fall. Also do not mix them up.

 

 

If you can get a cherry picker remove the engine. You will be much happier

thanks guys....

 

as for the jack stand. I live on the second floor in my apt building, i might be able to lock the motor to the bike stand haha..... well if i pull it out i might be able to cart it upstairs, idk w/e my gf already thinks um nuts doing it myself, but i got this.... hope global warming is on my side so it stays warmer longer =)

 

how do i disconnect that sensor? i looks like it unbolts but i didnt want to damage the wire while turning it

Squeeze the black clip on the flat part and pull up. Leave the sensor in the block.

oh ok nice, i couldnt tell if it was a clip or not

You guys do know there are free factory service manuals on this forum right?

Also I can almost guaranty you will have the headgaskets fail again if these steps aren't followed to the T. First you must use the updated OEM Subaru headgaskets, which are the MLS aka multi layer steel type gasket and use the updated Subaru TQ specs and sequences. It's probably one of the weirdest TQ sequences I've done and I think there's a back flip towards the end. LOL. Stay FAR away from those composite type gaskets. Many others have used FelPro and most didn't have success. Second, you will most likely have to get the heads machined. Every HG job on a NA 2.5 DOHC Subaru I've done in 15+ yrs of fixing cars needed them machined. Along with the heads the block surface needs to be checked with a straight edge. I would say 60% of the HG jobs needed the blocks to be machined as well. When the natural scrubbing effect occurs the MLS gasket will wear down certain parts on both the heads and block surfaces. On the block this mostly happens around the cylinder bores. If not taken care of will cause another HG failure. What I've done with the blocks in the past was used wet sand paper with water on a piece of square steel ( the steel is used cuz it's flat but you'll need a piece longer then the width of the block so ur sanding the entire surface at the same time) starting from 500 working to 2000 grit. You also must sand in a figure eight pattern, don't sand in any ol pattern. Doing this step will get the surface smooth enough to accept the new MLS gasket and to true it up. This will also show you any low spots but if there are some and you can't get them out via the wet sand paper you must have them machined. Finally the head bolts, anytime a bolt is toqured by using the toqure to yield method they must be replaced. In either case of toquring I always replace head bolts. It just extra insurance, and a cheap one.

You guys do know there are free factory service manuals on this forum right?

 

https://doc-14-14-docsviewer.googleusercontent.com/viewer/securedownload/dsn1aovipa7l846lsfcf94nedj8q2p4u/gn2n1do1tetic5jmtkhhu6d74ocklmcm/1384867800000/ZXhwbG9yZXI=/AGZ5hq8BgbJY1gwaOYx83cPOdNw6/MEI2UDZkeWJNTXpnOUxYbGtlbUYxWmpZd1Ewaw==?docid=262e3204683f47b27744492a71cba5aa%7C702a1e7eedaaa203afc4570c516b30c4&chan=DgAAAID9qb0ctaH8twXKkx/BAaw%3D&sec=AHSqidZosWhaiEqLVrDUauyp9-N58YdlvRJ5plTfAzhs3zFJUuYyeGkkdSsDsDAbZLnf6B4WeouS&a=gp&filename=MSA5TCD96L6063.pdf&nonce=mkuptbt6bufp2&user=AGZ5hq8BgbJY1gwaOYx83cPOdNw6&hash=5agcp25sgljgl61aaptp9l2rqjq0v8fc

 

not always as easy to find tho, took me a while to find this one when i was looking for it

Your school condone's this behavior? I'm surprised the PTA isn't worried you'd get hurt and sue.

If you can't get a lift, remove the dogbone strut at the top of the engine, the exhaust manifold and engine mounts bolts, which will allow you to jack it up higher.

You'll have to jack the engine up to get the clearance for the head bolts to come out.

Here is a DIY head resurface ref.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/122588-diy-head-resurfacing-or-post-apocalyptic-machine-shop-techniques/

You will need an accurate torque wrench to do the cam bolts. The front is only 7.2 ft/lbs and the other pairs are 14.5.

Any bolt that has red sealant on it, must have sealant on it upon install (they go into water jackets).Specifically one AC bolt and one PS bolt.

To be able to remove the cam pulleys, you can use a wrench on the flats on the shaft itself while you use the 17 on the outside.

You will need a good 12 pt 14mm socket to fit the head bolts.

Read the fsm at least twice to be sure you know your procedures.

 

O.

Service Procedure Camshaft .pdf

What kind of sealant do you put on the threads?

none.

 

there are very few bolts on a subaru engine that get sealant.

 

the head bolts get 30wt oil on the threads, washers, and head.

The long bolt (right hand) on the PS pump gets sealant. I use red. Just about any will do.

 

O.

Clean the headbolts really well too. I used a marker to do the angle bits of the torque procedure since I didn't have an angle wrench.

As for the jack stand. I live on the second floor in my apt building, i might be able to lock the motor to the bike stand haha..... well if i pull it out i might be able to cart it upstairs, idk w/e my gf already thinks um nuts doing it myself.

 

When I did the HGs on the SS I had the motor on a stand and ran a cable lock through the wheel and the stand. Of course a resourceful crackhead could have unbolted the wheel or the motor but luckily it was always there the next morning. I also wrapped it up in a blue trap, lol.

 

Once you get the heads off the shortblock you could pick it up by yourself no problem. I'm not saying its easy though. But strip the heads off and then you could move it up to the apartment and work on it and the heads in comfort. I'd take the disassembled shortblock and heads and take them to the car wash if possible and use the degreaser and pressure sprayer. But if that's not possible Simple Green, some scotch brite pads, a wire brush, and a lot of elbow grease can work wonders.

Clean the headbolts really well too. I used a marker to do the angle bits of the torque procedure since I didn't have an angle wrench.

 

 

Actually just placing a dot on the head of the bolt with a paint marker will work too. In any case the bolts need to be replaced. This is why every Subaru dealer stocks head bolts.

... In any case the bolts need to be replaced. .......

 

 

Not true. Seems there will never be an end to this confusion.

 

O.

ehh. This idea is fine if the engine is reassembled and ran within a day or two, but if its going to sit for awhile its a really bad idea. I have a locked up shortblock sitting on top of my toolbox right now because of this.

 

I oiled the piston bores so they wouldn't rust up. Then the block sat outside for a few months under a tarp. It still turned fine. Then I split it. Why did your's lock up?

 

Sounds like the safest thing to do is elbow grease and simple green, then.

high pressure washing is fine, as long as you make sure it gets dry (ill use compressed air to make sure). and after drying, make sure it gets some oil (or factory goo) inside to prevent rust. theres never any guarantee that things wont go bad, but theres a ton of things you can do to help make it a very small chance.