Learning View, finally got my car back :)

Ok, I have a 2005 LGT 5MT, it blew the Piston in Cylinder 3 during a WOT run I was doing as part of a tune.

 

I got it back last Saturday, rebuilt with a new Piston, gaskets, had to replace the head on that side, etc...

 

Long story short, it now has a ticking sound on the OTHER side of the engine. The builder thinks it is an injector, but it increases with RPM and never goes away..

 

The car runs better than it ever has... If I was not logging it, I would think it was a new car. It's just annoyingly loud.

 

It does throw a couple codes. P0420 and P1312 I have a catless up pipe.

 

IAM never drops below 1 on the logs, and I do have random once-in-a while misfires on the roughness log. never more than 1 per cylinder so far no matter how far I have driven.

 

I have been told that it is running lean at idle due to the A/F at 15 in the first box... I cannot find a vac hose that is loose though.

 

Does anyone have any input on what (if anything) is wrong? It seems to be pulling timing minimally according to this learning view.

 

Thanks!

38 views, and no comment... I'm taking that as It looks ok then. lol

a couple LV logs to update... this is after an oil change to Synthetic, and the oil did come out fairly clumpy.

 

I used Seafoam about 20 miles prior to the oil change to try to rid the knock.

 

Ticking/Knocking, whatever it is, still exists.

 

Seafoam in the gas and in the crankcase.

 

not sure where to put it in the intake, so I didn't do that part.

 

I think I smell gas in the oil when I remove the Oil cap.. I could really just be paranoid, but the knocking sound is driving me nuts!

Since no one is giving you love...

 

Your A/F is pegged in box A at 15, this means at idle, your car is adding a lot of fuel. Something to look into.

 

You have a little knock that you could get ride of, especially the -1.4 in the 3200-4000 RPM range cause that is getting into boost.

 

I am a novice but theres my take.

So it is adding fuel at idle? That's what that means...

I had misunderstood and thought it meant it was removing fuel.

 

What causes it, and how do I fix it?

I would investigate the sound more. No reason in injector should get lound after engine work.

 

Injectors are easy enough to remove and replace, why not swap sides on the injectors and see if the sound moves as well? I'd want to know more about the noise before I drove the car very hard if it were mine.

yea, I'm not convinced that it's injectors. It's too loud.

I need to actually get some help to move the injectors, I'm a complete novice at car engines and would likely screw it up.

 

But wouldn't rod knock show a hell of a lot more on the LV?

 

There is only the one instance of -1.40 in the semi high range, and the IAM is at 1 in all logs I have done, it never drops at all.

 

I was actually thinking exhaust leak or something... But im a noob.

So it is adding fuel at idle? That's what that means...

I had misunderstood and thought it meant it was removing fuel.

 

What causes it, and how do I fix it?

 

I think it's the MAF scaling that causes this. The scaling can be fine-tuned so that voltage measured at the MAF more accurately corresponds to the amount of air flowing into the engine. Stock, the car MAF scaling is off quite a bit. A friend helped me tune my MAF scaling and after a few revisions it's only off by about +/- .5

The 15% fuel trim is weird, doubly weird because the other trims are all great.

A vacuum leak could cause that, but only if it magically seals up when you get above idle.

If you have upgraded injectors I'd say the scaling is probably off.

You could try tweaking the MAF scaling but if you have the stock intake then you're probably just covering up a problem somewhere else.

Have you tried cleaning the MAF sensor?

I think I will try cleaning that MAF sensor... as soon as I get it back from the shop. I took it back to the engine builder this morning, I cant handle the ticking

So, the engine builder now has it back out of the car, and is adjusting the valves and checking the bearings and such.... He has done a compression and leakdown test (all are fine) and checked the oil for foreign matter and has found none. He pulled the engine anyway to get rid of the ticking, no cost to me, because he said that he never should have given it back to me with a tick since it didn't do that when he got it.

 

He also replaced a cracked vacuum tube he found after I told him about the idle fueling issue.

 

All in all, I think this is going to be sweet, as soon as I finally get it back!

vacuum tube? like from an old computer?

 

 

 

 

Glad your builder is taking care of you!

hose... tube... whatever

...he said that he never should have given it back to me with a tick since it didn't do that when he got it.

 

Cool. That's integrity. Who's the builder?

Out Of Town Auto, Ellsworth, Maine

Pete Weser is the owner.

 

Very good guy. Knowledgable, and really takes care of his customers.

 

He is that guy that every single mechanic in the surrounding towns sends you to when you have a Subaru.

 

He is a used Subaru dealer, he sells them with no warranty other than inspectability, but he has taken care of every single issue on the cars my wife and I have bought from him at either no cost to us, or minimal cost (his cost parts, plus like a couple hours labor) for years.

 

Very good guy.

 

This particular rebuild cost me under $900. He charged me two hours labor for all the work he has done, and I paid his cost on parts, like I said before.

 

Can't beat it. At least I don't think so.

Had a tank of bad gas... this is after filling up at Shell with good stuff....

 

These were taken two minutes apart...

 

The later one is the all blue values in the fields

 

IAM at .8 is not good.

 

Ayone know if it's just working through the bad gas, or is something really wrong... again

sorry, here are the LVs

Looks like you've got some low load noise, that is what cause your IAM to drop.

Is there a way via tune to get the ECU to ignore that kind of knock a bit more? It's not the dangerous kind, right?

 

Also, could I get the EGT CEL and the Cat Cel shut off via tune rev?

 

I have a catless up pipe, that has likely fried that sensor, and the P0420 code happens due to the cat being gone as well I believe, it would just be nice to not see those codes anymore

 

Thanks

Search around on the forum for the resistor fix for the EGT CEL. The resistor and a plug for the bung will make that issue go away.

Is there a way via tune to get the ECU to ignore that kind of knock a bit more? It's not the dangerous kind, right?

 

Also, could I get the EGT CEL and the Cat Cel shut off via tune rev?

 

I have a catless up pipe, that has likely fried that sensor, and the P0420 code happens due to the cat being gone as well I believe, it would just be nice to not see those codes anymore

 

Thanks

Yes, however the P0420 is from the rear O2 sensor. You shouldn't be seeing that code with both cats still in place in the downpipe.

Odd that it's there... I wonder if the downpipe cat is clogged or otherwise screwed up.

 

Maybe I just need to go ahead and buy a catless DP and go Stage 2.

That code is probably your O2 sensor. Mine was throwing the same code and thought the Cat was clogged or bad. Replaced the O2 sensor and the code went away.

FWIW, my 05 LGT has the same ROM and I have the same +14 to +15% LTFT at idle only. All the other trims are +/-2%. There are no vacuum leaks (intake was just off a few months ago to correct seeping fuel line clamps) and all hoses were checked. Obviously the intake gaskets are new.

 

Vacuum leaks were check for with propane. Nothing found. I personally think its the MAF scaling or just inherent to the ROM.

looks like you've got some low load noise, that is what cause your iam to drop.

 

+1