~~~Plug and Play HID Install Walkthrough~~~

Below is a link to the only HID install walkthrough I could find, so I figured we need one of our own. Note: I am in no way responsible for anything having to do with this walkthrough.

 

http://pimpmyauto.com/Legacys/H7%20HID%20kit%20install.htm

 

Use that link to disable your DRLs ('05-'06), on '07 you must "cut the blue/black wire" instead of unplugging them (otherwise highbeams and fogs won't work). Apparently the '08s may not need the DRLs disabled because it is the high beams that are the DRLs (at a lower output). If you unplug the DRLs like on an '05 or '06, it will disable them, but your high beam indicator will no longer work. If your okay with no high beam indicator, apparently you can just unplug them and be done. Cutting the blue/black wire has worked for some members on their '08s. Here's a link to the discussion for the '08s: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=75320. Apparently the '08s use the high beams on a low setting for the DRLs though, so no disable should be necessary. Once you've got the DRLs disabled ('05-'07), use this walkthrough for the HIDs.

 

This walkthrough is for a plug and play kit like the Apexcone I've used.

 

 

 

First, remove the factory light bulb. The plastic cap comes off counter clockwise if you're looking at the back of the headlight. It's labeled. The retainer spring is easy to undo.

 

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x312/kagenmateer/removefactorybulb.jpg

 

 

 

This is what you're left with. Circled in red is the factory grommet if you want to use it to run your wires. Good luck with that.

 

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x312/kagenmateer/whatyourleftwith.jpg

 

 

 

You'll need to break off the black plastic thingys. They're just for shipping.

 

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x312/kagenmateer/break.jpg

 

 

 

This pic is self explanatory. As labeled, that's a 1" drill bit.

 

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x312/kagenmateer/1inchhole.jpg

 

 

 

You'll need to notch out the 1" hole on each side for this connector to make it through. I used a dremel.

 

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x312/kagenmateer/makeroom.jpg

 

 

 

This is what it looks like with the wires through the plastic bulb cap and the weather seal grommet in place. You can't really see the grommet in this pic.

 

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x312/kagenmateer/wiresthrough.jpg

 

 

 

Time to put the bulb in. After a couple tries, I found this to be the best grip to install the HID bulb. I grabbed the bulb base with one hand and let everything else hang. Not that it's real complicated or anything.

 

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x312/kagenmateer/gripforinsert.jpg

 

 

 

This is with the HID bulb in place and both spades connected. The red wire goes to factory pink, and black goes to black. What looks like it used to be a black wire on the factory plug is washed out by a white powder, making it look greyish. This is probably powderized rubber from the wire jacket being exposed to the heat. Note: apparently some kits have black and blue wires, so put blue to suby pink and black still goes to black.

 

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x312/kagenmateer/bulbinplacewiresconnected.jpg

 

 

 

Now that everything is connected, you might as well try it out to make sure everything's going right!

 

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x312/kagenmateer/tryitout.jpg

 

 

 

After you've confirmed it works, tape each wire individually so there's no chance they can touch.

 

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x312/kagenmateer/tapeeach.jpg

Then tape both wires together to protect them. Use plenty, tape is cheap!

 

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x312/kagenmateer/tapeboth.jpg

 

 

 

Now, re-install the plastic cap. Looks nice, huh?

 

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x312/kagenmateer/reinstallcap.jpg

 

 

 

It was quite convenient to mount the ballast to my AEM CAI heat shield.

 

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x312/kagenmateer/ballastlocation.jpg

 

 

 

After the sticky failed, I fabricated this bracket to hold the ballast on better

 

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x312/kagenmateer/bracket.jpg

 

 

I was able to tuck my wires behind the AEM heat shield. Always get your wires neatly out of the way.

 

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x312/kagenmateer/tuckwires.jpg

 

 

 

This is where I ended up putting the driver ballast. The driver side is definitely a much tighter space than the passenger, so do the passenger side first!

 

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x312/kagenmateer/driverballast.jpg

 

 

 

After the sticky failed on this side, this is how I secured it. Two 9" zip-ties connected to make a really long one...going all the way around the frame

 

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x312/kagenmateer/IMG_3138.jpg

 

 

 

Here's my LGT with the HIDs vs. my Mazda 6 with factory halogens.

 

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x312/kagenmateer/LGTvs6.jpg

 

 

 

Here's a couple straight on pics.

 

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x312/kagenmateer/straightondark.jpg

 

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x312/kagenmateer/straightonlit.jpg

 

 

 

Here's a side view. This is with blacked out lights and Sylvania Silverstar bulbs

 

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x312/kagenmateer/sideview.jpg

 

 

Enjoy!!

 

Update: See posts 167, 170 and 180 for some other information and ideas.

 

Also, the dust caps can be purchased from your local dealer for around $20 shipped if you're worried about drilling them. The part number is 84953AG060.

Nice walkthrough - I wish you'd written this about a week ago! I followed scans' directions, drilled a too-small hole in the plastic cover, and had to spend some quality time with my dremel to get that connector through...

Thanks! I did the first one with 7/8 and had to spend more time on that one. I eyeballed the grommet and knew the hole had to be much bigger than scan's.

What kelvin did you purchase Kagenmateer, looks like either 5000K or 6000K? I'm hoping to order my kit tomorrow before prices go back up...

35W 5,000k

nice write up well done. thank you, you just cost me another $150. bosco

What goes around comes around.

You can also do this without drilling the caps. Looking at the Apexcone Kit, I don't know if it is possible, but I know the older kits (Xtec...before Apexcone bought them) could do it. I was looking for the walkthrough I followed, but I couldn't find it.

Basically, what you have to do is open up that black plug where the red and black wires are, and push out the stock grommet and route those wires outside of the housing. After doing that, you can route the HID grommet through the stock spot.

It's not completely "plug and play" and you have have to mess with sliding the rubber around the wires down if the HID grommet doesn't have the length to get to the stock spot....but it is drill free. (I didn't have a drill, which is the reason I did it)

I did it without drilling the caps on my 07'. Just fished the wires through the grommets on the headlights. More work, but neater look. You can't even tell I have HID's.

 

I place the driver's side ballast on top on the windshield fluid reservoir, and the passenger under the headlight housing.

 

No problems whatsoever.

 

X

good info. for those who care.

so if you guys are just doing plug and play ( no retrofit) how is the light quality? like is it way better than stock? are you constantly blinding people? I want to go hid but dont want to take my lights all apart to retrofit them.

The light is pretty good - a lot of that, of course, depends on the bulbs you choose, as 4500-5000k will give better light than 6000k or higher. I think the light is great with my 4500k kit. As far as blinding people, the light is still constrained by the cutoff in the stock projectors, although I believe the exact placement of the light source within the bulb may be off by a little bit. I haven't been flashed by anybody. Adjusting the aim on the headlights is key....

 

I'd say the plug-and-play kit was worth my $130, but I also understand those who go the retro route because they want perfection.

Check out the before and after for me here:

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36402

 

I also got these when they were way more expensive than $130...they DROPPED in a year.

...looks mega bright! Just a couple of things make sure the ballast never touches the AEM and if you used double sided tape to stick on the ballast it may come off cause of the engine bays heat. Both scenarios I have been through!!!

 

 

CRAZY KEN

...looks mega bright! Just a couple of things make sure the ballast never touches the AEM and if you used double sided tape to stick on the ballast it may come off cause of the engine bays heat. Both scenarios I have been through!!!

 

 

CRAZY KEN

 

Good point. The driver side came unstuck, so I zip tied it. So far, so good on the passenger side.

^ thank you. bosco

Hey Bosco, you'd be an expert here... Hopefully this isn't a re-post, but I have an off-topic question. My APV2 showed up today. How will the 91 Octane Stage I map cooperate with my AEM CAI? Think I'll be dangerously lean or should I not worry about a custom tune 'til stage II? I have the AEM and a CBE (last cat removed).

Hey Bosco, you'd be an expert here... Hopefully this isn't a re-post, but I have an off-topic question. My APV2 showed up today. How will the 91 Octane Stage I map cooperate with my AEM CAI? Think I'll be dangerously lean or should I not worry about a custom tune 'til stage II? I have the AEM and a CBE (last cat removed).

 

i am far from an expert but i really don't think just a cai and cbe would change it enough to harm the engine at Stage 1. i would check with rao, fweasel or edmundu for more info to be double sure. once you do get to Stage 2 i would recommend a Pro Tune the difference in wtq and drivability was worth the trouble. bosco

i am far from an expert but i really don't think just a cai and cbe would change it enough to harm the engine at Stage 1. i would check with rao, fweasel or edmundu for more info to be double sure. once you do get to Stage 2 i would recommend a Pro Tune the difference in wtq and drivability was worth the trouble. bosco

 

thx

I find this walkthrough 10x easier and more understandable than scans.

Thanks for the great write-up.

That's why I did it. Thanks for positive feedback!

Ordered my 35W 5000K kit on Friday, thanks again for this DIY, I know it will help with my install, can't wait!

No problem!

 

BTW, Note: My 35W kit is freaking bright! Road signs are brilliant now. I worry about getting a ticket and am glad I didn't get the 50W kit.

Because of this write up, i decided that i too need a set of HID'S.. Woot for a great write up!

Now i just can't wait for that box to arrive at my door step.