CEVENN Posted November 21, 2009 Share Posted November 21, 2009 Hi. I saw that my front silen-blocks (bushing?) are "used" when I change my summer tyres for winter ones: It's a 2004 3.0r SpecB, mt6. http://i81.servimg.com/u/f81/09/01/20/06/10112010.jpg http://i81.servimg.com/u/f81/09/01/20/06/10112011.jpg What do you think about that? Can you tell me where I can find some parts to upgrade my car if I have to change them? Here, in France, I can only find genuine parts. Thanks!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meier motor sports Posted November 21, 2009 Share Posted November 21, 2009 they are called lower control arm bushings like $12 from the dealer for replacment ones. aftermarket can be like $130 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CEVENN Posted November 21, 2009 Author Share Posted November 21, 2009 Thanks!!!! I found the part number, I think, and it's the same than LGT: http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/20204AG010/ or http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/20204AG011/ If I have to change it, I think I'll try to upgrade them. if somebody could help me, it's quite hard to find some parts when you don't read well in english (and write too!!! ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meier motor sports Posted November 22, 2009 Share Posted November 22, 2009 http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail.php?part_number=KCA334 http://www.perrinperformance.com/products/show/276/Anti-Lift-Kit-PSRS-ALK?category=8&model=10 http://www.perrinperformance.com/products/show/743/Anti-Lift-Kit-PSRS-ALK-Zero-Deg-?category=8&model=10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
katalyst Posted November 22, 2009 Share Posted November 22, 2009 the perrin kit is a solid bearing design, it can really increase the NVH the whiteline kit is poly, avo also makes some that are also poly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meier motor sports Posted November 22, 2009 Share Posted November 22, 2009 http://www.avoturboworld.com/avoshop/product_info.php?cPath=266_3_66&products_id=595 http://www.avoturboworld.com/avoshop/product_info.php?cPath=266_3_66&products_id=525 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omnicron Posted November 22, 2009 Share Posted November 22, 2009 I had the KCA 334M Whiteline . See what happened to mine. I am still waiting on the redesign/replacement after a few months. The one in the previous link appears to be different than mine. They offered to replace/refund the units so Whiteline does stand behind the stuff they sell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CEVENN Posted November 22, 2009 Author Share Posted November 22, 2009 Thanks, guy, I have choice now!!! Question about Perrin ones: what's the difference with desaxle one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
katalyst Posted November 22, 2009 Share Posted November 22, 2009 hmm desaxle? is that a company ? i'm not familiar with them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CEVENN Posted November 23, 2009 Author Share Posted November 23, 2009 :lol: It's my english, going wrong!!!! There are two sorts of them: -with centered axis:p -with non centered axis:p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meier motor sports Posted November 25, 2009 Share Posted November 25, 2009 one will affect your tire alignment and give your more or less caster depending on installation. the other will keep factory alignment specs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTTuner Posted November 27, 2009 Share Posted November 27, 2009 one will affect your tire alignment and give your more or less caster depending on installation. the other will keep factory alignment specs Just to clarify the translation for you; Centered axis will keep alignment settings stock. Non centered axis changes your alignment. The change would affect how your steering feels. Comprendre? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 27, 2009 Share Posted November 27, 2009 I have Super Pro center bushings for sale. Pming you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CEVENN Posted November 28, 2009 Author Share Posted November 28, 2009 Comprendre? Comprendre!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CEVENN Posted January 2, 2010 Author Share Posted January 2, 2010 Thanks Unclemat: Received today: http://media.share.ovi.com/m1/s/1600/94d644c8980a4753ad6bb53a18723ac5.jpg Next thursday on the car!!! And happy new year everybody!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 I replaced my torn-looking bushings about 4mo ago. They were a pain to remove from the control arm and I wound up having to push the center bit out with the press (tearing the rest of the rubber) and then using a hammer and chisel to cut through the outer metal band (the bit that is a friction fit with the control arm). The new ones were also a pain to get in also, but once I has them lined up just right I was able to push them in with an arbor press. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 I replaced my torn-looking bushings about 4mo ago. They were a pain to remove from the control arm and I wound up having to push the center bit out with the press (tearing the rest of the rubber) and then using a hammer and chisel to cut through the outer metal band (the bit that is a friction fit with the control arm). I would strongly recommened against doing it, especially on the aluminium arms. Damaging the arm surface will compromise the friction of the bushing and the bushing can slide out under force. I had a lame shop damage my aluminium arms while removing the bushing (partially crushing the inner surface) and the bushing started to slide out. Glad I caught it before ending up e.g. in a concrete wall at the track. Bottom line: properly sized bit/socket and a press should be used both to press in and out the bushings. Safety of the occupants is at stake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 Ordinarily I'd agree with you but in this instance after the torn inner portion of the bushing was removed the outer part of the bushing is so thin that I had no bit that fit. It's nearly 4" in diameter, and only about 1/16th thick, so the margin for error is almost nil. Now I have kept an old bushing outer, I can push them out properly next time. As I was using the chisel I was very cognizant of damaging the inner surface of the control arm (mine isn't aluminum) and I chiseled inwards from the top to ensure I only cut through the bushing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94sportsedan Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 Thanks Unclemat: Received today: http://media.share.ovi.com/m1/s/1600/94d644c8980a4753ad6bb53a18723ac5.jpg QUOTE] What part# did you order for your front lower control arm rear bushing kit. Was it SPF3091K? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CEVENN Posted January 4, 2010 Author Share Posted January 4, 2010 Hi. I don't know! Ask this to unclemat! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CEVENN Posted January 31, 2010 Author Share Posted January 31, 2010 Hi. 3 weeks using them: great response in steering, NO MORE "shaking" during heavy breaking, better feeling around corners!!! It's seems now that steering has less precision: my local mechanic think I have to change the front ones too: unclemat, if you read me... Some pictures in his garage, with old french cars: Citroën Traction Avant http://media.share.ovi.com/m1/s/1625/71c09749a8654f179022e246442a24fc.jpg Citroën DS: http://media.share.ovi.com/m1/s/1625/3a40d8d7d84d4644be388d52fa8689f3.jpg http://media.share.ovi.com/m1/s/1625/143912a706274e899da1b2e9db98722c.jpg http://media.share.ovi.com/m1/s/1624/a52f265b73974c4890be944135ddf66c.jpg 100 tons (!!!) manual press for the bushings: a baby could use it!!! http://media.share.ovi.com/m1/s/1624/4a799f50d935451196a2f1da253493a8.jpg Renault 4L http://media.share.ovi.com/m1/s/1624/11155a22557e49d1a8c56ce22c4f7bb4.jpg http://media.share.ovi.com/m1/s/1624/d6b1e4e4e2df4b79aad634fbf8ae6c0c.jpg :lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CEVENN Posted January 31, 2010 Author Share Posted January 31, 2010 Thanks Unclemat: Received today: http://media.share.ovi.com/m1/s/1600/94d644c8980a4753ad6bb53a18723ac5.jpg QUOTE] What part# did you order for your front lower control arm rear bushing kit. Was it SPF3091K? This is SPF2801K, front control arm lower-inner rear kit. SPF3091K is front control arm lower-inner front kit. Everything is here: http://203.31.191.243/fulcrumCat/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nvr-enuf Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 Hello everyone - how hard are these to replace? Time wise? I do have a lift. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PearlBlueGT Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 mine are worn out just like that also, however I don't want to go with urethane as car is already has stiff ride. Found oem one http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Subaru-Front-Control-Arm-Rear-Bushing-/250977593984?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ASubaru|Model%3ALegacy&vxp=mtr&hash=item3a6f6e2a80 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CEVENN Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 Hi. I had to change Supertooth ones because they seems to be "Supersmooth" for french roads!!! I have now Perrin ones, hardest. You have to extract old ones with a press, after disassembling arms, so it's you need tools and time... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.