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Spark Plug Install Instructions


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Is #3 the back plug, driver's side? I'll agree. I found I could just barely squeeze a finger in there to check that it was on. Also, when it's on right, you'll hear a "plop" if you pull it out an inch or two. If it's NOT on, it won't plop.

 

No, cylinder 3 is the passenger rear..

 

When I started my car and saw I had a misfire on cylinder 3, I automatically assumed our engine was like a "normal engine" with each bank being consecutive. So it turns out I was playing with Cylinder 2 thinking is was Cylinder 3 :spin:

 

Passenger front is Cyl.1 ; Passenger rear is Cyl.3

Driver front is Cyl.2 ; Driver rear is Cyl.4

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No, cylinder 3 is the passenger rear..

 

When I started my car and saw I had a misfire on cylinder 3, I automatically assumed our engine was like a "normal engine" with each bank being consecutive. So it turns out I was playing with Cylinder 2 thinking is was Cylinder 3 :spin:

 

Passenger front is Cyl.1 ; Passenger rear is Cyl.3

Driver front is Cyl.2 ; Driver rear is Cyl.4

 

Ah, ok. Cyl 3 was, IMHO, easier than 4. I did driver's side first, and cyl 4 took 30-45 minutes to get back on until I bent it while inserting it. Having learned from that, cyl 3 took only 5-10 minutes. Subject to a fuzzy memory :-)

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  • 1 month later...

I just bought the ILFR7H plugs (step colder) from sparkplugs.com. I am running stage 2 and have a little over 26K on her so I figure it couldn't hurt. I also found a discount code on the SRT fourms that gets you 10% off (not much but it's something) Code is SRTIRIDIUM

 

Hopefully the plugs won't be too hard, though just from poking around in there I don't see how the hell you fit anything in there to work. So we'll see after the weekend. I may or may not have new plugs in my car lol.

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I just bought the ILFR7H plugs (step colder) from sparkplugs.com. I am running stage 2 and have a little over 26K on her so I figure it couldn't hurt. I also found a discount code on the SRT fourms that gets you 10% off (not much but it's something) Code is SRTIRIDIUM

 

Hopefully the plugs won't be too hard, though just from poking around in there I don't see how the hell you fit anything in there to work. So we'll see after the weekend. I may or may not have new plugs in my car lol.

You need LFR7AIX plugs, ILFR7H is an Evo plug.

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From what I can tell the ILFR7H are simlply longer life versions of the LFR7AIX. The dimensions all match the stock spark plugs but these are one step colder. I am sure that these will be just fine. In my experience the laser welded plugs are high quality and work well. They are btw the stock plugs for Evos according to the application finder on sparkplugs.com. That doesn't mean they won't work on our cars.
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I am having some doubts about putting in these plugs now. I couldn't find my wire gapper so I went and got one of those cheap round gappers at Oreilly (all they had). According to the gapper I got these plugs all came pre-gapped to .020... So for starters I don't trust this gap gauge, but also am worried that these plugs may not be the best. NGK website does not list a gap size for these plugs but states that you should not gap them. And if I go get a decent wire gapper now the car will be hot again... I think I will just wait till next friday when I have off and time to fix it if they don't work right.
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kind of a little thing most probably already know but this thread came up in my CP and I figured it couldnt hurt to add. holds true across pretty much ALL SPARK PLUGS and applications..

 

Most people dont have or arent using a torque wrench just tighten by feel... When instsalling a fresh plug there is a crush washer and after beginning to get tight you give it that little extra turn as the washer crushes. When ever installing or re-installing a plug that has already been in/on an engine that crush washer has already been crushed and you wont have that extra crush turn when installing. When its snug its snug and leave it at that...

 

Had two friends out in the woods (I ride atvs and dirtbikes) fouling out and plug and not having a spare take out and clean off their plug in attempt to get running right so they can ride back out of the woods and strip the threads in the head from over-tightening the spark plug. BIIIG no-no. If you dont feel comfortable hand tightening a torque wrench and the proper specs for that plug/head is clearly the BEST option.

 

A lot of auto-zone type places also rent tools so if you dont own one you can rent one for like 5 10 bucks...

 

Not a bad idea if your doing all your plugs on your ride...

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Did mine today. The pointers on this link were a big help. Maybe I can add a few details that may help make somebody day easier.

A) Antiseize on the plug threads-easier to remove next time and easier to install and less likely to cross thread

B) The "pads" on the frame. Use a simple screwdriver to pop the front attachment off and pull them up and out of the way. The little bit of extra room made a ton of difference on the drivers side. Spare yourself a lot of unnecessary ag pop them off and tip it up.

C) As for the pull the battery -not pull the battery argument. If ET is you friend call him over and give him a beer. If you have normal human hands ... pull the battery . Too much crap in the way for me. I could not get a second hand down w/o pulling the battery.

The next time I do this will be quicker but I dont think I could get this down to the 35 minutes that some people quote. My hat goes off to you.

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ILFR7H Plugs are in fact gapped to .020 maybe .022"

I doubt that there is anything special about these plugs that allow you to run less gap than normally needed. So these are NOT just longer lasting replacements for the LFR7AIX which come pre-gapped to .032"

So, does anyone here know more about this than I do? Should I attempt to gap them to .028" or so (even though the box says not to)? Or should I just go get the damn LFR7AIX plugs?

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ILFR7H Plugs are in fact gapped to .020 maybe .022"

I doubt that there is anything special about these plugs that allow you to run less gap than normally needed. So these are NOT just longer lasting replacements for the LFR7AIX which come pre-gapped to .032"

So, does anyone here know more about this than I do? Should I attempt to gap them to .028" or so (even though the box says not to)? Or should I just go get the damn LFR7AIX plugs?

Iridium is pretty frail and shouldn't be re gapped.

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I did mine last night with LFR7AIX's. As for the battery in or out I left mine in. I'm stubborn and just wanted to do that way since others have and I didnt want to reflash the ECU. Man, that was tight though, i thought about pulling it several times and will next time. I was glad to see my plugs were in great shape with 54k on the car with cobb stage 2 for 15k and a TDC e-tune since for 15k! After seeing a couple posts on here i was nervous. It was a good a time , hung out with the old man and threw a few back.
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  • 2 weeks later...

Well I tried to change the plugs. What a freakin disaster. I couldn't do the driver side plugs. There is a stupid piece of plastic duct that blocks access to the coil packs and it's held in place by two clamps. The bottom one is impossible to get to. I tried every angle possible and wound up giving up. I don't have the patience. I got the passenger front plug in. That's it... What a pain in the ass. Also the freakin Oreilly by me didn't have any 1/4" drive 10mm sockets, and as everyone said, and I had hoped wasn't true, the 3/8 socket wouldn't fit in there to do the passenger back.

 

What the hell is that duct and blower thing? I have never seen this on another car before, turboed or not.

 

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m196/julieroxbill/IMG_3785.jpg

 

 

What is this thing? ^

 

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m196/julieroxbill/IMG_3781.jpg

 

 

And has anyone else had to deal with this dumb duct? on top of completely blocking access to the rear plug/coil pack it keeps you from pulling the front coil pack out once you have it unbolted. Is this something that's on 2007s and later?

 

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m196/julieroxbill/IMG_3787.jpg

 

And here you can barely see the clamp that holds it in place at the bottom that is impossible to get to with a pair of pliers.

 

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m196/julieroxbill/IMG_3775.jpg

 

And here is what my front passenger plug looked like. I don't think it was too bad. Oh and also I found that bolts holding both the front coil packs on were finger tight... scary. I love finding crap like that.

Edited by the_3d_man
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This car I believe either originated in South Carolina of Georgia, I forget which (i looked at two). I don't think it's cali spec. It's an 07 5MT. What can I say... I've never had a car that had stuff on it I couldn't identify. I can only guess that it has something to do with emisions maybe... I dunno, I have not seen it on any of the people's pictures with older years so I can't see that it's needed lol. I was getting so freakin pissed trying to get some pliers in there to get that duct off so I could get to the already impossible to reach coil packs.
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Ok... so after searching the forums I see that it's an air pump that's only on 07+ years. For reducing emissions on cold starts. What a load of crap. Apparently this is what makes the car sound like a diesel for a few seconds after startup too from what I read... that's another question I had wondered about for awhile... So... I guess I need to get a damn extension tool (i have no idea what they are called) to squeeze the clamp open and pull the duct off, so I can maybe get a socket wrench in there to get the coils off. Maybe next weekend...
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Ok... so after searching the forums I see that it's an air pump that's only on 07+ years. For reducing emissions on cold starts. What a load of crap. Apparently this is what makes the car sound like a diesel for a few seconds after startup too from what I read... that's another question I had wondered about for awhile... So... I guess I need to get a damn extension tool (i have no idea what they are called) to squeeze the clamp open and pull the duct off, so I can maybe get a socket wrench in there to get the coils off. Maybe next weekend...

 

Sorry, can't help you with the removal procedure. But, the one thing you can be happy about: because of the air pump, you get no cat in your UP. So, that probably gets you +10lb-ft and +10hp for stage 1 over an '05-06..

 

Sucks about the location, though..

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Sorry, can't help you with the removal procedure. But, the one thing you can be happy about: because of the air pump, you get no cat in your UP. So, that probably gets you +10lb-ft and +10hp for stage 1 over an '05-06..

 

Sucks about the location, though..

Seriously doubt this...

Also 07+'s tend to not benefit much from stg 1 tuning due to their higher stock boost levels compared to the 05-06's.

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